maREX7

So here's the storey.

Car had perfect compression, 12k miles since last rebuild, new spark plugs ~300KM old, all new hoses in rats nest and around were replaced with high temp silicone hoses, new high capacity radiator including all new water hoses, all new viton check valves etc etc, new oil at the upper dip stick level... Im just running out of ideas.

So 4 days ago I started her for the first time after 5 months dry storage (while was sorting out all the solenoids that were broken and redoing complete hose system by the diagram, also sorted leaking pan with new gasket+high temp rtv silicone+ss 5mm oil pan brace and stud kit, everything is nice and steady at that point)

it was past 10pm that evening and I did not realized I forgot to bolt on the exhaust pipe to downpipe so I was really forced to cut engine off ~3minutes later, I know bad decision but neighbourhood rules. So I did realized I most likely flooded the engine, and wasn't expecting her to start another day at all but she started fine, and about 1more minute later this grasp sound from intake manifold has began to occur, it would sound like something is not right either with some of the vacuums or throttle bodies I dont know now... it has went away that second day for about the minute and then came back and now this is like that for good.

I've cleaned all the spark plug wires prior putting them all back on, I have decided to take all spark plugs out for the day cleaned them and inspected all seem OK, that didn't help, so I thought maybe I have air pockets in the system somewhere like where the hose bypasses the thermo-valve of some kind near the throttle body, and I did very long taking procedure de-airing the system now its completely free of air but I still need to test start her today and see if that made any difference...

one friend suggested it could be turbos or motor going, but the weird thing is if I flick the throttle cable this weird idle noise will go away for that time and will come back when cable is released and motor rpm back to idle state.

FYI my airpump has been removed and necessary pipes blocked off, my AC is removed too and so is the AC rad with the electrical solenoid.

I have uploaded 1080p FULL HD videos to youtube maybe you can check it out and give me your blessing what I may have done wrong or what to do to sort this out?

Youtube Videos:

maREX7

Things I have to try today are:

1. while motor is runing remove spark plug leads one by one see if there comes the spark - May it be LEADS / COIL's / or eves spark plug's? (FIY I run original spark plug setup with leading and trailing correctly positioned)
   
2. Will want to measure TPS for voltages
   
3. Also my ECU harness had some hand made jump wire (or 2 wires) installed right before the plugs to the ECU, I will take a pic of them and maybe you would know what that can be all about? As for now its running stock ECU, I have Apexi PFC but its mapped by someone for non-sequential turbo setup, I need to reinstall fcedit and load baseman I suppose before I can hook this thing up to my car.
   
4. I will take off the IM pipe and check the butterflies for any obstruction or damage etc. Weird thing is that the car would iddle smoothly before I took redone all rats nest, but would jump a little bit randomly at low rpm due to solenoid tips broken and poor vacuum hoses

maREX7

I've forgot to mention - when car warms up a little @ ~80c she behaves just like its shown in the last vid here , so I take its something to do with throttle bodies or vacuum system? this video must be watched what happens if I kept on moving the throttle cable sound just disappears while motor revs up and down.

Mps_hell

This might sound mental, But it sounds like its running backwards...... passably the craziest thing I have heard, there is more noise under that hood then at the back, not an easy feet with a rotary

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Sounds like it is your Idle Air Control Valve cycling continuously at idle.

I have never heard it on my FD with stock airbox, but it sounds like that on my FC with FD Upper Intake Manifold and an open intake.

Its at the back of the Upper Intake Manifold just after the Throttle Body. Try disconnecting its electrical connector and see if the sound goes away.

maREX7

Thanks for reply! Yea it seems like my TPS/IACV fault?

I am not sure but when I unplug 4-wire plug from behind of the UIM motor throttle body motor comes back to proper working manner and sounds smooth like a kitten! No more rasp from the intake So I found maybe its the TPS sensor is gone? I did found the manual on how to measure and adjust TPS values on closed and open throttle but it did not help. I managed to get all values to meet factory ones only the one was kinda hard on the limit - bottom black wire open throttle I could not get more 4.19V without getting the rest 3 other measurement values out of order, so I left it at 4.19V and others in a mid-range of allowed values. Seriously - nothing has changed after that. Also I did measure for dead spots and did not find any, dont know maybe wasn't careful enough but I think I did everything very well(as I measured pre-configuring, during and after configuring TPS position, and all met the values required). Then I decided I should try adjust TPS sensor on hot running motor just by acoustical feel on how motor behaves and I did so, I found the angle where it works in idle perfectly, but once I step on the throttle and rev to ~4k rpm, turbo spools up, and doesnt drop straight down after I release the throttle, it kinda spools for ~5seconds with boost and slowly going down, and just before it settles in the idle position it will still give me rasp noise from intake filter but later it disappears and idles ok. If I disconnect the 4-wire plug all together, it never gives the rasp noise, but it behaves same way not letting throttle down immediately after spooling turbo @~4k rpm. Can that be sticky throttle body butterflies? Or something else in connection?

maREX7

Ok so I dont know what to do.

I have checked everything one last time, I took off the UIM, cleaned everything inside with carb intake cleaner spray, washed all butterflies with the same spray, also adjusted TPS sensor to all values within required range (referring to specs from this site: TPS Adjustment ) and I dont know what to do next, I see no dead spots during TPS adjustment and it adjusted to good values, what I am doing wrong? Can it still be dead TPS if it behaves like this? Or can it be Idle adjustment screw out of order (one at the left side of the throttle body), and maybe another kind of screw under the intake pipe inside the cylindric hole outside the throttle body itself?

Or what can it be?

Also my motor dont seem to release boost or throttle right after I flick the throttle up so I rev the motor up to ~4k rpm and it keeps on boosting and doesnt drop for another 3-4 seconds! What kinda thing is that? where to look?

Here in this video you will see motor warmed up with TPS unplugged otherwise you know what it sounds from videos at above posts how it sounds.:


After setting TPS sensor to good angle so it gives average reading between minimum and maximum voltages so it seems its setup perfectly but it now makes my motor to behave like this, please watch!!!


I hope you can tell me what is wrong with my boost setup? why it keeps on boosting and doesnt drop mediately after throttle is released

maREX7

any thoughts?

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I don't know, but

Could you get a video of what it is doing from the inside showing the tachometer?

And state whether it is warmed up or cold.

maREX7

OK some news guys:

I was advised by some experienced rotary minded fellows that it may be my one of the CAS, either dirty, rusty, damaged, broken wire between CAS connector to ECU or loose plug to CAS! So it was, my GRAY CAS plug wasn't fully on and it actually took me 20 minutes to push it back on, it was that hard. It just would not move extra 2mm needed due to old expanded rubber seal, however I made it happen its there now, also cleaned them and cleaned the metering disc and pulleys... I have not tempted to start the car because I have previously messed up with idle control and it will take some time to get it right if its off by much now, and it is actually past 11PM in the neighbourhood so Im taking no chances against neighbours patience

Im gonna start it after ~18hrs from now, I will be back from work and should be good to go.

Can anyone advice me how to set the lower air bleed screw under the intake manifold? I have read somewhere as If I tighten it closed and unwind one round I should be ok? or is that some nonsense?

p00shy

iTrader: (3)

What's a CAS? I'm bad with acronyms. Good luck with the fix!

Also, i believe it is an idle screw. i would say adjust it when the car is warmed up to your prefect idle. but thats just me.

maREX7

CAS - Crank Angle Sensor.

That didnt help everything back same as it was no joy

I dont know what to do.

I go adjust idle on full warmup with top idle screw totally loose, and fasten under elbow idle screw/air bleed screw in almost all the way so it makes ~ 750rpm, but the sound still persists.

I try to adjust TPS so #2 wire shows fully closed 1.05V - open 4.89V,
bottom wire #4 shows closed 0.44V - open 4.29V

If I left it that way - car idles terrible. If I change TPS position while car is up running idle fully warmed I can get it sometimes to point where she idles perfect, but shows wrong voltages after checking TPS, however sound doesnt disappear if rev up once or twice it will sound same on and off again, and will eventually go away and will come back again on and off on and off. terrible... I get to understand why people just go and put LS1 and LS2 motors straight in to them now... before I would have hated people doing this, now I come to understand what is this all deal about...

maREX7

sorted now, thanks.

p00shy

iTrader: (3)

What was the fix?

p00shy

iTrader: (3)

If you find a solution to your problem, post it for the community to know. We all have the same car and can run in to potentially the same problem.

maREX7

well guys its the story full of laugh, my aul lad tried to help me without me knowing and connected the turbo hoses and air bypas hoses all wrong since then all the problems started, so if you do all the work yourself and only yourself, you wont ever put yourself trough such hard times LOL