HELP: 1st gear + clutch + brake = stalling out
04-24-09, 03:07 PM
#1
HELP: 1st gear + clutch + brake = stalling out
read a few of the stalling threads non had the symptoms i have...
here are my known symptoms, they may not all be related...
car takes a few seconds to crank before it catches- hot and cold starts
if im in neutral and slam the brakes car is still fine
if i clutch in and im in 1st gear and brake, the car stalls out
idles at 1000rpm (was having previous stalling issure so raised the idle)
vacuum on the commander reads ~ -36xmmgh at idle (i believe it should be near -47x mmgh car has a mild street port)
boost gauge reads around 12 vacuum ( i believe i pay more attention to the pfc)
volts are reading hight 13.x-14.1
any suggestions what could be the problem?
-benny
here are my known symptoms, they may not all be related...
car takes a few seconds to crank before it catches- hot and cold starts
if im in neutral and slam the brakes car is still fine
if i clutch in and im in 1st gear and brake, the car stalls out
idles at 1000rpm (was having previous stalling issure so raised the idle)
vacuum on the commander reads ~ -36xmmgh at idle (i believe it should be near -47x mmgh car has a mild street port)
boost gauge reads around 12 vacuum ( i believe i pay more attention to the pfc)
volts are reading hight 13.x-14.1
any suggestions what could be the problem?
-benny
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04-25-09, 08:30 AM
#8
RIP IceMark
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bubbles is running a mild street port also... he forgot to mention that...
funny that we are friends and I have the same issue.. sorta
however my compression is 120 around
my boost reads -17 mmhg
what the hecks.
funny that we are friends and I have the same issue.. sorta
however my compression is 120 around
my boost reads -17 mmhg
what the hecks.
04-25-09, 10:12 AM
#9
read a few of the stalling threads non had the symptoms i have...
here are my known symptoms, they may not all be related...
car takes a few seconds to crank before it catches- hot and cold starts
if im in neutral and slam the brakes car is still fine
if i clutch in and im in 1st gear and brake, the car stalls out
idles at 1000rpm (was having previous stalling issure so raised the idle)
vacuum on the commander reads ~ -36xmmgh at idle (i believe it should be near -47x mmgh car has a mild street port)
boost gauge reads around 12 vacuum ( i believe i pay more attention to the pfc)
volts are reading hight 13.x-14.1
any suggestions what could be the problem?
-benny
here are my known symptoms, they may not all be related...
car takes a few seconds to crank before it catches- hot and cold starts
if im in neutral and slam the brakes car is still fine
if i clutch in and im in 1st gear and brake, the car stalls out
idles at 1000rpm (was having previous stalling issure so raised the idle)
vacuum on the commander reads ~ -36xmmgh at idle (i believe it should be near -47x mmgh car has a mild street port)
boost gauge reads around 12 vacuum ( i believe i pay more attention to the pfc)
volts are reading hight 13.x-14.1
any suggestions what could be the problem?
-benny
04-25-09, 12:42 PM
#10
The only way to know for sure is if you compression test your engine. From what you wrote, those are signs of low compression. Its better to do the test and rule it out so you dont make yourself go crazy.
FYI, depending on who did the build/parts that were reused etc will determine the life of your engine. I have seen people here with a bad engine after a couple thousand miles.
Just cause you have 10k on the rebuilt, doesnt mean it cant go/be bad.
Good luck.
FYI, depending on who did the build/parts that were reused etc will determine the life of your engine. I have seen people here with a bad engine after a couple thousand miles.
Just cause you have 10k on the rebuilt, doesnt mean it cant go/be bad.
Good luck.
04-25-09, 04:23 PM
#12
Ehh anything can contribute to a bad/blown engine.
Break in procedure, gas, tuning, boost spikes.
Im assuming you know this already, just dont wanna get your hopes up. Just saying ALWAYS prepare for the worst, especially with these cars.
Let us know what you got man.
Break in procedure, gas, tuning, boost spikes.
Im assuming you know this already, just dont wanna get your hopes up. Just saying ALWAYS prepare for the worst, especially with these cars.
Let us know what you got man.
04-25-09, 05:32 PM
#13
You just did an auto to manual conversion, right?
You could have bad clutch hydraulics, so essentially when you come to stop you are not fully disengaging the clutch. If this were true I would also assume you have trouble getting in to gear without grinding, which you have not mentioned.
Check your clutch switch (the one at the top of the clutch pedal).
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/engine-stall-when-i-push-clutch-594830/
You could have bad clutch hydraulics, so essentially when you come to stop you are not fully disengaging the clutch. If this were true I would also assume you have trouble getting in to gear without grinding, which you have not mentioned.
Check your clutch switch (the one at the top of the clutch pedal).
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/engine-stall-when-i-push-clutch-594830/
04-26-09, 08:58 AM
#15
RIP IceMark
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Sooo Bubbles... if bubbles will wake up on a early sunday.. I can bring him the compression tester...
Bubbles... wakie wakie..
and yes... I broke the compression tester properly..
Hey! the first compression tester I had... people were like.. you have to tear the valve out at the bottom or the side...
DID you know that you can unscrew it with a tire valve tool?! :P
I did not...
So I have a extremely damaged or modified one will work only for rotary... and one good one that I can put back together for a piston car hahaha
Bubbles... wakie wakie..
and yes... I broke the compression tester properly..
Hey! the first compression tester I had... people were like.. you have to tear the valve out at the bottom or the side...
DID you know that you can unscrew it with a tire valve tool?! :P
I did not...
So I have a extremely damaged or modified one will work only for rotary... and one good one that I can put back together for a piston car hahaha
04-26-09, 12:56 PM
#17
You just did an auto to manual conversion, right?
You could have bad clutch hydraulics, so essentially when you come to stop you are not fully disengaging the clutch. If this were true I would also assume you have trouble getting in to gear without grinding, which you have not mentioned.
Check your clutch switch (the one at the top of the clutch pedal).
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=594830
You could have bad clutch hydraulics, so essentially when you come to stop you are not fully disengaging the clutch. If this were true I would also assume you have trouble getting in to gear without grinding, which you have not mentioned.
Check your clutch switch (the one at the top of the clutch pedal).
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=594830
so me and outterball just did a compression test after warming up the engine.. dont know if the tester was working correctly or not but the front rotor was reading 60psi on all 3 faces and the rear rotor read 60-30-60 or 60-30-30 pretty sure its the first one...
soo what are your diagnostics? what should the compression be reading on a mild street ported engine?
once again the vacuum is reading of -36x mmhg
04-26-09, 01:25 PM
#18
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the schrader valve was totally removed and I can blow freely through the tube part of the compression tester...
So it wasn't fully the compression tester incompetence...
the thing that worries me is the not three needle bounce.. it was uneven on the rear rotor..
So it wasn't fully the compression tester incompetence...
the thing that worries me is the not three needle bounce.. it was uneven on the rear rotor..
04-26-09, 02:12 PM
#19
just tightened all the spark plugs.. idk if that helped i cant tell if it sounds better but the exhaust pulse still doesnt sound just right...
after i tightened the plugs when i would touch the gas it would kind of hesitate drop down 100rpms? then catch? after a few times it did that it went away... was that signs of a stuck seal?
OH I FORGOT to mension we seafoamed the car after the compression test
after i tightened the plugs when i would touch the gas it would kind of hesitate drop down 100rpms? then catch? after a few times it did that it went away... was that signs of a stuck seal?
OH I FORGOT to mension we seafoamed the car after the compression test
04-26-09, 02:39 PM
#20
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why dont you just go to one of the shops and get it tested with a real tester so you accuratly know what the compression is, especially since the real tester will tell you the exact psi on each face of the rotor.
its what i did when i was worried i blew my engine...i got the test and it read, 115,116,115 on the front and 115,114,115 on the rear
and i only went because i tried multiple times with the piston tester but i always got like 3 even pulses but at 50 psi...and the temp of the engine will make the piston tester vary
its what i did when i was worried i blew my engine...i got the test and it read, 115,116,115 on the front and 115,114,115 on the rear
and i only went because i tried multiple times with the piston tester but i always got like 3 even pulses but at 50 psi...and the temp of the engine will make the piston tester vary
04-26-09, 07:25 PM
#21
While it is best to use a rotary compression tester, I have never had an issue with a piston compression tester. You obviously have a compression issue on either one face or two faces of the rear rotor. You have a couple different options. Continue to drive the car as is and deal with the issues of having the low compression on one/two faces and take the chance of more damaged being caused later down the road. Or go ahead and have it rebuilt and hope you havent already damaged a rotor or a housing. Really depends on what exactly you want, you may be able to beat the living crap out of the current engine for several thousand more miles before major failure occurs or it could happen sooner. Really all depends on your plans with the car as to how you should approach the situation.
04-26-09, 08:31 PM
#22
While it is best to use a rotary compression tester, I have never had an issue with a piston compression tester. You obviously have a compression issue on either one face or two faces of the rear rotor. You have a couple different options. Continue to drive the car as is and deal with the issues of having the low compression on one/two faces and take the chance of more damaged being caused later down the road. Or go ahead and have it rebuilt and hope you havent already damaged a rotor or a housing. Really depends on what exactly you want, you may be able to beat the living crap out of the current engine for several thousand more miles before major failure occurs or it could happen sooner. Really all depends on your plans with the car as to how you should approach the situation.
04-26-09, 09:22 PM
#24
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which ones? the leading plugs? there not supposed to be very tight but if there loose enough to almost fall out then yea it would let some blow by occure....stupid question..but when your doing this you do have both trailing plugs plus your crank angle sensor pulled right? with a battery with a good charge?