I took the car to KDR for a final tune. Also had him inspect a coolant smell I was experiencing after hard pulls (high rpm). The smell was inside the car and the inside windshield would steam up. Dave said my heater core was cracked and leaking slightly. Yesterday I did a hard pull and there was massive amounts of coolant steam came inside from underneath the dash on the passenger side.

Does anyone know any quick fixes for this heater core leak before I drop $300 for the new part and $500 for labor?

Thanks!

 

Yep. Learn how to DIY, and use the PM function and FS forums. I'm sure you could probably get one off of fritz or one of the other vendors used for cheap and then install it yourself. That way you're looking at 100 dollars instead of 8 times that. I see just paying KDR to fix it as being lazy.

 

I see at as using my time efficiently. This would probably take me 12 hours+ when it would only take KDR 6 hours. Thats 12 hours I can spend doing work at my job (or ENJOYING a day at the track). Money earned would go to KDR for their 6 hours of labor. This way everyone does the work they are most efficient at completely. The economy is better off that way. I guess it pays if you get paid <$42/hour at your job tho.

 

I don't think there is a quick fix for your situation.

 

Figured.

What about a solution to add to the coolant that heals leaks?

 

you mean block weld? I put one too many C&C block weld in my car, and clogged up my heater core. So, I'm kind of in he same boat as you.

Eddie

 

Firstly I am saddend to see a member whom I would consider a "veteran" for being with us since early 2003 to post such a thread concerning leaking coolant. Surely you would know by now the implications of leaking coolant and engine failure - surely. And continue to race !

But I will take it easy this time and say...do NOT inject any snake oils, block welds, stop leaks, ect, etc, into your engine to "heal" a core leak. Instead fix it right by;

A. Replace the core, or better yet
B. Abandon it all together and remove the Heater/AC unit for weight savings.

If you are more serious about racing than engine maintenance then perform B.

Later

 

I agree with bad.

 

I am well aware of the heat dangers of FDs. I am extensively monitoring my multiple (3) water temp gauges and my water levels to ensure my engines health. Additionally, Dave at KDR, didn't express serious concern with the leak and said I could push it for several years if I'd like and I can put up with the smell. To ensure engine longevity he said to simply top off the water level once every 5-10 drives (when the light indicates).

That having been said, I ordered a new heater core.

ASP class SCCA SOLO doesn't allow heater system removal.

 

I find that hard to believe. Even so, common sense with any car should tell you to never run a car with a compromised cooling system.

 

Common sense should have told me that I can't get a straight answer on an internet forum without getting everyones 2 cents on unrelated nonsense.

 

No quick fixes for that one. Dash needs to come out to do it right. Bring me the car if you like I'd be happy to fix it. Or go with Dave, he is a good guy as well.

 

I wish more people had had the ***** to tell me when I was a dumbass in the past. I would have saved alot of time and money. Don't be a dick when people try to help you.

 

Your comment about "common sense" wasn't helping. I have enough common sense to know when I can and can't run my cars. And yes, KDR was fine with me running the car. In fact, they did 3+ dyno pulls after discovering the source of the leak. I don't think they would have done that if it wasn't safe.

 

Worst case scenario, the thing bursts, and believe me if that happens, you'll know about it with way more time than you need to shut the engine down.

If the OP is keeping things topped up, it's not a serious risk.

But I definately don't recommend running chemi-weld or some other leak stopper to fix it.... things get badly clogged up, and you don't want to see the inside of a motor that's had that done to it (previous owner of my car clearly did!!! )

 

Actually worst case is if it bursts and severely burns you or a passenger. Its not something I'd take a chance with. Any kind of block weld will cause more harm than good in the long run. It will clog the radiator as well as the many small coolant passages in the motor..

 

KDR recommended against this stuff. I just wanted to get a feeler on other peoples experiences with the stuff. The answer is the same. Don't use it. Thanks to everyone who provided constructive input. I ordered a new core earlier today. She'll be fixed up like new soon.

 

This is a very serious risk I hadn't considered. Thanks.

 

out of interest, how much did you pay for the new core (or was it second hand?)

I am in the market for one.... blown coolant seals weren't kind to my heater core

 

The quick fix without removing the dash and/or the heater system is to bypass the heater core. This can be done from the engine bay by detaching the two lines that go through the firewall to the core, and joining those two lines together.

BTW, if you know how to remove the dash, the heater core replacement should take about 4 hours. I did it in about 6-7 hours as it was the first time I took out the dash in a FD, and was extra careful in removing it. It was a pain in the *** though, so I certainly understand why you would bring it to a shop. Also, I found it was significantly cheaper to have a radiator shop rebuild the core than buying a new one from the dealer.

With respect to running the car with a leaky core, I ran my car with the leak for some time, but eventually I found the car interior became excessively moist, and it became impossible to defog due to the moisture. The leak started off as a small mist, but increased over time and was leaking steadily onto my carpet. Also with air getting into the cooling system, the car became prone to spilling coolant out of the oveflow tank after it was shut down. I didn't overheat the car, or have the core burst, but it sure was annoying driving around with misted windows!

 

For anyone reading this that doesn't already know and understand, it is NOT ok to continue to operate an FD with a compromised cooling system, or any car for that matter. If you have a drip, leak, or steam coming up in the cabin, then park it and fix it. Over the years I have witnessed and read of incidents where a drip suddenly turned into a geyser which produces a topped out temperature gauge very quickly. O-ring failure soon follows.

I cannot imagine any professional tuner ever recommending that you continue along your way with a coolant system leak.

Nothing surprises me these days.....

Later

 

+1 porboy. Bypass the core until you can find time/money to fix it.

 

Mine's been bypassed for almost two years...

Given the amount of effort to replace the core (removing most of the dash) I'm reluctant to put in another used core. I plan to get a new core and not have to do the job again in a year or two.

 

Obviously you don't have that much sense. You thought it would be a good idea to stick a tube of radiator stop leak into an FD, which already has problems regulating temperature.

If KDR is the only source of information you're willing to listen to, then why post a question on this board? Just call them up and ask them. We're just trying to help.

Sounds like the only information you consider helpful is what you want to hear. I know you didn't like what I had to say, but that doesn't mean you should whine to me in a PM. Again, stop the crying, get the sand out of your vag and deal with your problem.

 

Hell I don't even run a HVAC unit at all, on all three of my FDs. Lots of weight savings to be enjoyed. But the dude needs to be stock, so be it.

Some may ask "how do you stay warm Tom when you plowing and boosting thru that 15" of snow with the blocks and chains" - Well I just start a small campfire in a steel barrell on the passenger side and that takes care of me until I arrive at my destination.


Later