hbp+stock twins=***hp
#6
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Its not just about performance. Its about reliability. The stock intercooler is worthless. It is severely undersized. To add further it sits on top of the radiator and heat soaks. Hot air contributes to detonation. Why not get something like a Greddy stock mount and anodize it black if you want stock appearance? I also have A pfs intercooler laying around somewhere. At the very least add a water injection kit. You can hide all the components pretty easily.
#7
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You have a half bridge port and your worried about keeping the engine bay stock? I would definitely just get an intercooler and anodize it black like he said, it's about reliability too if u want to have a good running engine.
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#8
I understand that my logic is unconventional but it's not a race car. I don't drive it often and I don't really beat on it. Stock appearance doesn't mean stock.. I have spent quite a bit of time pondering the greddy and if it becomes a necessity then I will figure something out. But then it will make me want to ditch the air pump and add pulled and upgrade turbos and if course that leads to injectors and fuel systems and before you know it, it's a full on high power build.
My reason for the hbp was the idle alone. I don't drive it enough to worry about fuel economy and its still very steerable as is. Should have come from the factory like this
My reason for the hbp was the idle alone. I don't drive it enough to worry about fuel economy and its still very steerable as is. Should have come from the factory like this
#9
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I think you will make decent power like that, but I have a feeling your eventually gonna get the bug and start upgrading lol, good luck though, should be fun as is.
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
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i'm on the same page as you wanting the stock appearance. I got the Greddy SMIC and love it because it looks like it's supposed to be there. Like others have said, it's a definite must regardless of how much HP you want to make; it's about reliability. Lower intake temps, more O2, more fuel, more power....but lower intake temps will make your engine last longer.
And, i'm still thinking about going water/meth to lower them even further.
But you need to duct it properly. The stock duct it worthless with the Greddy so i got the pettit duct and cut it a little and weather stripped it. That duct is so well made i don't even have to secure it anyway, it just...stays there.
And, i'm still thinking about going water/meth to lower them even further.
But you need to duct it properly. The stock duct it worthless with the Greddy so i got the pettit duct and cut it a little and weather stripped it. That duct is so well made i don't even have to secure it anyway, it just...stays there.
#12
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This engine is gonna beath very well so its gonna be a little harder for the turbos to build manifold pressure. Once it hits 12 psi, I estimate you will have flow for say 340rwhp with all the supporting mods. With your setup, you may get 280 with a **** load of hot air entering the engine due to inefficient supporting components.
#13
Don't worry be happy...
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I give it half a run before the stock IC heat soaks
Edit-
This. I used to have a PFS back when I had twins. Great unit! While my buddy had a stock IC he would be hovering in the 60-70C range while I'd be in the mid 40's C... WORLD of difference. Anodize that bitch black and it might as well be stock.
Last edited by Montego; 07-08-14 at 10:15 AM.
#18
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#19
F'n Newbie...
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You add large(r) ports like that on NA rotaries to increase their air flow in order to get more power. With a turbo charged rotary you turn up the boost for more air flow in order to get more power.
Doing large porting like that on STOCK TWINS is a complete waste of time IMO.
#20
Eh
iTrader: (56)
Forget the HBP, a stock port FD with full exhaust on 12lbs will make 300rwhp all day long with a decent tune on PFC, it's guaranteed with a Pettit ecu. Once again, this is assuming the hi-flow cat isn't clogged and all else is healthy. This is 2001 info we are talking about here. Any FD with full exhaust making less than 290-300rwhp on 12lbs has other issues besides the IC that is being used. Obviously the stocker isn't ideal but he should be right at 300rwhp on this setup. If it is the PFC basemap the numbers will be around 270-280rwhp assuming all else is well.
#21
Eh
iTrader: (56)
Do not waste your money on a Greddy SMIC. It is just a slightly bigger OEM replacement that is shiny but has worse ducting. I would put money on the OEM with proper factory ducting being more efficient at speeds over 40mph vs the Greddy with just the top duct it comes with. Your money would be way better spent on a PFS/M2/Pettit SMIC with duct or $350.00 AEM water/meth injection.
#24
Why would you waste your time and money on going HBP if you want to keep EVERYTHING else stock??? I would NOT say that your reasoning is "unconventional" I'd say it's completely illogical (or based on bad information)!
You add large(r) ports like that on NA rotaries to increase their air flow in order to get more power. With a turbo charged rotary you turn up the boost for more air flow in order to get more power.
Doing large porting like that on STOCK TWINS is a complete waste of time IMO.
You add large(r) ports like that on NA rotaries to increase their air flow in order to get more power. With a turbo charged rotary you turn up the boost for more air flow in order to get more power.
Doing large porting like that on STOCK TWINS is a complete waste of time IMO.
good idea. can you send me a link?