time to fine tune the fd..

mods are..
half bridge port
non seq stock twins
power fc
downpipe/exhaust
apexi intakes
bov

guess power numbers to the wheels @12psi

tuner says 250hp. im completely in the air.

what do you guys think?

ill post results this weekend

 

I'd say closer to 300 if you do not have a cat. You didn't list a MP but it would seem rather strange to have a cat with a HBP...

Also what kind of dyno?

 

Need an intercooler man.... The stock one does almost nothing. I'd hold off on the tune and get upgrade the intercooler, instead of wasting money to tune it twice.

 

100% agree /\

 

i want the engine bay to stay as stock as possible. i dont mind sacrificing performance for that goal.
says its a dyno mite dynometer

and yes high flow cat hooked to the air pump. no stink.

 

Its not just about performance. Its about reliability. The stock intercooler is worthless. It is severely undersized. To add further it sits on top of the radiator and heat soaks. Hot air contributes to detonation. Why not get something like a Greddy stock mount and anodize it black if you want stock appearance? I also have A pfs intercooler laying around somewhere. At the very least add a water injection kit. You can hide all the components pretty easily.

 

You have a half bridge port and your worried about keeping the engine bay stock? I would definitely just get an intercooler and anodize it black like he said, it's about reliability too if u want to have a good running engine.

 

I understand that my logic is unconventional but it's not a race car. I don't drive it often and I don't really beat on it. Stock appearance doesn't mean stock.. I have spent quite a bit of time pondering the greddy and if it becomes a necessity then I will figure something out. But then it will make me want to ditch the air pump and add pulled and upgrade turbos and if course that leads to injectors and fuel systems and before you know it, it's a full on high power build.

My reason for the hbp was the idle alone. I don't drive it enough to worry about fuel economy and its still very steerable as is. Should have come from the factory like this

 

I think you will make decent power like that, but I have a feeling your eventually gonna get the bug and start upgrading lol, good luck though, should be fun as is.

 

with none sequential twins , good motor and if twins are in good shape I'd say low 300's only because of the cat . a bit more if that wasn't there . although honestly aslong as I was driving when i had my stock IC it wasnt bad when i stopped is when it gets terrible .

 

i'm on the same page as you wanting the stock appearance. I got the Greddy SMIC and love it because it looks like it's supposed to be there. Like others have said, it's a definite must regardless of how much HP you want to make; it's about reliability. Lower intake temps, more O2, more fuel, more power....but lower intake temps will make your engine last longer.

And, i'm still thinking about going water/meth to lower them even further.

But you need to duct it properly. The stock duct it worthless with the Greddy so i got the pettit duct and cut it a little and weather stripped it. That duct is so well made i don't even have to secure it anyway, it just...stays there.

 

This engine is gonna beath very well so its gonna be a little harder for the turbos to build manifold pressure. Once it hits 12 psi, I estimate you will have flow for say 340rwhp with all the supporting mods. With your setup, you may get 280 with a **** load of hot air entering the engine due to inefficient supporting components.

 

**** didn't even notice that. And no A.I. to cool the charge either... So no IC, no AI, and no MP.... yeah I take it back. I'm with your tuner with the 250 HP.

I give it half a run before the stock IC heat soaks

Edit-

This. I used to have a PFS back when I had twins. Great unit! While my buddy had a stock IC he would be hovering in the 60-70C range while I'd be in the mid 40's C... WORLD of difference. Anodize that bitch black and it might as well be stock.

 

Ill call it right now, even with the stock IC the car should make 300rwhp easily assuming no boost leaks and the hi-flow cat is healthy. You can make 250rwhp with only a downpipe and 12lbs.

 

so are you saying that his hot air intake, exhaust, and HBP are going to net him an additional 50RWHP? That seems awfully high...

 

Interesting. All the advantages of a bridge are lost with stock intake and exhaust so I'd say 300 rwhp is a far shot. With a better flowing intake/exhaust the power should jump significantly.

 

so i should see stock numbers around 220 to the wheels? totally happy with that!

 

i think my FD did 225rwhp with a DP as the only mod. actually i think my T2 was around 220 with a 3" exhaust!

i will grant you that the stock idle is f--ing boring...

 

Why would you waste your time and money on going HBP if you want to keep EVERYTHING else stock??? I would NOT say that your reasoning is "unconventional" I'd say it's completely illogical (or based on bad information)!


You add large(r) ports like that on NA rotaries to increase their air flow in order to get more power. With a turbo charged rotary you turn up the boost for more air flow in order to get more power.

Doing large porting like that on STOCK TWINS is a complete waste of time IMO.

 

Forget the HBP, a stock port FD with full exhaust on 12lbs will make 300rwhp all day long with a decent tune on PFC, it's guaranteed with a Pettit ecu. Once again, this is assuming the hi-flow cat isn't clogged and all else is healthy. This is 2001 info we are talking about here. Any FD with full exhaust making less than 290-300rwhp on 12lbs has other issues besides the IC that is being used. Obviously the stocker isn't ideal but he should be right at 300rwhp on this setup. If it is the PFC basemap the numbers will be around 270-280rwhp assuming all else is well.

 

Do not waste your money on a Greddy SMIC. It is just a slightly bigger OEM replacement that is shiny but has worse ducting. I would put money on the OEM with proper factory ducting being more efficient at speeds over 40mph vs the Greddy with just the top duct it comes with. Your money would be way better spent on a PFS/M2/Pettit SMIC with duct or $350.00 AEM water/meth injection.

 

I agree the Greddy smic isn't the best but he wanted a stock look. I'd ditch the stock ast and those home depot boost control valves. That's just asking for problems.

 

The HBP is retarded. Doing something for only the idle. Why don't you go get one of those little fans for your muffler to whistle too? Haha. Pathetic

 

how does bridgeport cost money? i needed to go through the engine anyway. was literally a whole 30 minutes driving to my friends house, grabbing free irons and driving back home.

those were a temporary. its now on a greddy profec b 2, i have an aluminum ast waiting in the wings for when the plastic fails but its in tip top condition so hopefully it lasts a while. again.. purposely searched for nice oem parts to keep the stock look as much as possible.

good idea. can you send me a link?

 

all of this hate and anger and frustration because i spent time searching for parts everyone else threw away. i love it.