I was going to create my own thread and then I did the sensible thing and searched (imagine that). Just wanted to comment and say that this thread helped me out a ton with all the battery suggestions. I ended up buying a LFX36l3-BS12. It's a tiny little monster coming in at less than 5 lbs and measurably tiny. (Length 6.55" Width 3.39" Height 6.10"). Hoping this keeps me from having to relocate the battery due to a larger intercooler. $252 on Amazon with free same day delivery. Hard to beat.

 

Nice! Keep us update on how it works.

Note those Shorai batteries have a special charger they make for them, I think it plugs into that small port in the middle.

Dale

 

Im about to go with a deka 30 in my FC. My battery is relocated, but its a similar size to the above. Putting it into a Taylor 48300 batt box.Deka ETX30L Sizes and Specifications

• Voltage: 12V
• Capacity: 26 Ah
• CCA Rating: 400
• Chemistry: AGM
• Length: 6.63"
• Width: 5.19"
• Height: 6.88"
• Weight: 23 lbs

 

Honestly, check out the Shorai battery I posted. It's almost half the size, delivers more CCA, and has a larger capacity. And did I mention it's less than 5 lbs?

 

I did check it out, its a pretty awesome battery. I guess you have to weigh out whether 18lbs, 1.5 inches of width, and 100 CCA are worth 150 bucks.

 

You also have to look at the life of a battery. If it weighs less and lasts twice as long, it's obviously worth twice the price.

 

How do you know it lasts twice as long? Say it did, buying 2 Deka 30s would stiill be cheaper.

 

I don't know that, which is why I said to look at the life expectancy.
You're still overlooking the weight savings too.

 

100lbs is 1/10th of a second off of your 1320. 18lbs isnt a big deal to me. I'm not trying to talk down the Li battery, but its just personal preference.

 

No problem. Just offering my opinion
I've been using Odyssey AGM batteries for many years.
They're not much lighter than lead acid, but they last 2-3 times longer, and don't cause corrosion on the terminals. Well worth the triple cost, not to mention less hassle not being stranded away from home with a dead battery.
Another bonus, they don't explode. ��

 

For my road racer, I'm looking into using an Ultracapacitor array along with a small AGM battery. The caps supply the starting current while the battery will run the pumps and fans when the engine is shut down.

 

Adding that capacitor for small batteries is a good idea, especially considering how cheap they are on Amazon. Why didn't I think of that?

Seriously considering one now.

 

Ditto....

Although you gotta make sure you start it on the first try right? lol.

This one looks smallish. Could probably mount it on the side of the engine bay somewhere tucked a way. Not sure what all exists in the market for something like this. This is just the first one I found.

 

jandrewrx7@gmail.com

 

I'll put the small battery and the capacitor array in parallel, so the battery will recharge the caps between cranks. The caps just have to supply the high current for 3 or 4 seconds.

 

Pretty slick, though I'd add a handle to lift it out with.

 

 

Pretty slick. Still wouldn't load up the bins with a battery in a crash scenario, though.

 

I have an Odyssey PC620 in the bin, but I fabbed an aluminum mount and it's through bolted to the floor.

 

Safe! But, now you're breaking my heart about carving up the car.

 

It was 1 of 7 Vintage Red 1995's, but it now has a 7-liter LS, T56, and Cobra rear.
It starts every time, shreds much more expensive cars, and comes home without a tow truck.

 

I mean, that's cool. It's not without its own caveats, though.

 

True. I let a friend who had a built rotary 94 drive it. You should have seen his eyes when he mashed the throttle at about 80 mph and it blew off the tires. LOL

 

Disturbingly rapid, I have no doubt.

 

There were only 7 VR 1995 cars? That's crazy.