Guys with lightweight flywheels...
#1
17 second FD
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Guys with lightweight flywheels...
I just installed my 6 puck sprung clutch and 9.5lb Prolite flywheel, and it isn't nearly as difficult to drive as everyone has made it out to be. I thought the revs were going to raise and drop like a motorcycle or something, but it feels exactly like it did before. Granted, the clutch took me about 5 minutes to get used to, and I stalled my first time attempting to get it to move, but other than that, it's cake!
I just don't understand why everyone always talks about how sub 12lb flywheels are so horrible for the street, I see NO difference...
I just don't understand why everyone always talks about how sub 12lb flywheels are so horrible for the street, I see NO difference...
#2
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
I just installed my 6 puck sprung clutch and 9.5lb Prolite flywheel, and it isn't nearly as difficult to drive as everyone has made it out to be. I thought the revs were going to raise and drop like a motorcycle or something, but it feels exactly like it did before. Granted, the clutch took me about 5 minutes to get used to, and I stalled my first time attempting to get it to move, but other than that, it's cake!
I just don't understand why everyone always talks about how sub 12lb flywheels are so horrible for the street, I see NO difference...
I just don't understand why everyone always talks about how sub 12lb flywheels are so horrible for the street, I see NO difference...
#3
17 second FD
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No way... I've read all over the forums how lightweight flywheels are horrible for the street... I'd love to find the posts for you, but unfortunately, I can honestly say I think I am the absolute worst person on the entire forum when it comes to finding what I am looking for using the "search" function.
But yeah, I've definitely read a ton of posts claiming this. So many that it actually had me nervous about my setup.
But yeah, I've definitely read a ton of posts claiming this. So many that it actually had me nervous about my setup.
#6
I just installed my 6 puck sprung clutch and 9.5lb Prolite flywheel, and it isn't nearly as difficult to drive as everyone has made it out to be. I thought the revs were going to raise and drop like a motorcycle or something, but it feels exactly like it did before. Granted, the clutch took me about 5 minutes to get used to, and I stalled my first time attempting to get it to move, but other than that, it's cake!
I just don't understand why everyone always talks about how sub 12lb flywheels are so horrible for the street, I see NO difference...
I just don't understand why everyone always talks about how sub 12lb flywheels are so horrible for the street, I see NO difference...
Generally speaking, light flywheels aren't really an issue if you're on a level surface. Take 'er up on a considerable hill, come to a dead stop, and try engaging *without* riding. THEN you'll see where streetability of light flywheels drops. Other than that really, I LOVE light flywheels. They make rev matching a dream
~Ramy
#7
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hmm... well my shifting has always been one of my strong points, most people I've ridden with(FD owners or not) just plain can't drive stick, period.
I'm not really sure that I'm riding the clutch... I drop it pretty quickly, and it doesn't really *feel* like it's even a stick, but I don't know what the "right" way to drive it actually is... any more of an explanation to that?
I'm not really sure that I'm riding the clutch... I drop it pretty quickly, and it doesn't really *feel* like it's even a stick, but I don't know what the "right" way to drive it actually is... any more of an explanation to that?
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#9
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I have this exact setup and to drive it smooth you have to ride the clutch quite a bit, the clutch is either engaged or its not not much between the two. makes rev matching much easier.
#12
LOL Gene, be quiet. Last time I saw you drivin, you were ridin that clutch so bad, I thought you thought it was takin you on a trip (I'm just playin dawg
It's REALLY hard to explain, but there are some things you can notice if you look for 'em (or if they're pointed out to ya as you drive). If you're keen, you can actually hear it (both from inside and outside the car). I *routinely* tend to notice when ppl are riding the HECK outta their clutches as they come in to park, for example.
- If the revs jump up a bit between shifts
- If you feel almost a lurch forward between shifts, when shifting normally
- You engage the clutch from a dig at like 2,000 rpm (I can essentially engage the clutch and get moving with very little increase in rpms, if at all from idle). This one is a great clue, as to (subconsciously) mask poor engagement skill, ppl tend to over-rev upon engagement.
Essentially, you're already accelerating yet your foot is still on the clutch. Doesn't have to be hard; could be feathering it, but you still are. It's not necessarily a bad thing; I do it whenever I have someone w/ me in the car, b/c jerky cars are no fun to passengers lol. Makes everything smooth. But when I'm by myself, I don't really care; I'm used to the FD bein jerky, so I just let off as soon as she engages, and it's def. not silky smooth.
Heck, on uphills, when starting from a stop, to avoid riding the clutch, I actually have to engage, drop the clutch to disengage, and re-engage again. Basically I'm double or triple clutching to get the car goin nice w/o riding the clutch. I'm *very* sensitive when it comes to clutch engagement, and I think that's based on how I learned to drive stick (I would get the car moving by engaging the clutch without *any* throttle whatsoever. Helps you learn the exact engagement point perfectly, and if you let off too fast, you'd stall). Granted, I don't recommend you do this, as a lil clutch riding can't be too bad (and in certain circumstances like from a dig on an uphill, or when in reverse) it can be necessary. But I simply dread having to change out my clutch, so I do my best to *never* ride it. I'll even engage and then immediately disengage in reverse (now that the car's in motion) rather than ride the heck outta the clutch the entire time in reverse as most ppl do haha.
EDIT: Almost forgot; you can also adjust the pedal travel required for clutch engagement...that helps too. The *KEY* to proper engagement is proper foot position. If you're awkwardly or uncomfortably positioned, forget it.
- If the revs jump up a bit between shifts
- If you feel almost a lurch forward between shifts, when shifting normally
- You engage the clutch from a dig at like 2,000 rpm (I can essentially engage the clutch and get moving with very little increase in rpms, if at all from idle). This one is a great clue, as to (subconsciously) mask poor engagement skill, ppl tend to over-rev upon engagement.
Essentially, you're already accelerating yet your foot is still on the clutch. Doesn't have to be hard; could be feathering it, but you still are. It's not necessarily a bad thing; I do it whenever I have someone w/ me in the car, b/c jerky cars are no fun to passengers lol. Makes everything smooth. But when I'm by myself, I don't really care; I'm used to the FD bein jerky, so I just let off as soon as she engages, and it's def. not silky smooth.
Heck, on uphills, when starting from a stop, to avoid riding the clutch, I actually have to engage, drop the clutch to disengage, and re-engage again. Basically I'm double or triple clutching to get the car goin nice w/o riding the clutch. I'm *very* sensitive when it comes to clutch engagement, and I think that's based on how I learned to drive stick (I would get the car moving by engaging the clutch without *any* throttle whatsoever. Helps you learn the exact engagement point perfectly, and if you let off too fast, you'd stall). Granted, I don't recommend you do this, as a lil clutch riding can't be too bad (and in certain circumstances like from a dig on an uphill, or when in reverse) it can be necessary. But I simply dread having to change out my clutch, so I do my best to *never* ride it. I'll even engage and then immediately disengage in reverse (now that the car's in motion) rather than ride the heck outta the clutch the entire time in reverse as most ppl do haha.
EDIT: Almost forgot; you can also adjust the pedal travel required for clutch engagement...that helps too. The *KEY* to proper engagement is proper foot position. If you're awkwardly or uncomfortably positioned, forget it.
Last edited by FDNewbie; 08-27-07 at 12:26 AM.
#13
Glug Glug Glug Burp
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I don't think it feels at all like stock. Car snaps firmly into gear, and you can't ride the clutch at all. Pedal is stiff as ***** too. I love it though. Especially 8K rpm shift into 2nd gear... feels like the goddamn dash is going to land in my lap!
#15
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It's no joke for sure - but fun!!
I actually sold the FD. Still have it till the buyer gets back from Iraq. Looking to get another one and start over. Soon as I get my Supra back together!
J
#16
Just took a break from forums for a while (actually, work blocked them!)
It's no joke for sure - but fun!!
I actually sold the FD. Still have it till the buyer gets back from Iraq. Looking to get another one and start over. Soon as I get my Supra back together!
J
J
~Ramy
#17
Big Snail
I'm running same flywheel but with unsprung 6 pad disc and it sucks rolling from a dead stop up an incline. I have to rev to about 2500 rpms to get going with out the whip lash effect. From a stop on even ground, just a little slip and no problems.
#18
I supposedly have an 8lb flywheel (so the previous owner says) and i dont find it hard to daily drive at all. Then again i learned to drive stick on this car and dont know what a stock FD feels like.
#22
For the same reason, when downshifting and revmatching, I can rev match w/ very little throttle, and very precisely, and VERY quickly, because the flywheel is so light.
Night and day my friend...night and day.
~Ramy
#23
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Ben, there's a HUGE difference. Night and day. When I installed my light flywheel then went to drive the car, I had trouble driving it w/o riding the clutch. I was revin up to 4,000 rpm unintentionally, simply because the flywheel was SOO light, so it took much less throttle to really get the revs going.
For the same reason, when downshifting and revmatching, I can rev match w/ very little throttle, and very precisely, and VERY quickly, because the flywheel is so light.
Night and day my friend...night and day.
~Ramy
For the same reason, when downshifting and revmatching, I can rev match w/ very little throttle, and very precisely, and VERY quickly, because the flywheel is so light.
Night and day my friend...night and day.
~Ramy
#24
Also, although I've never confirmed the weight of my flywheel (PFS unit), I *believe* it was an 11.5 (not a 9.5) lb wheel, and I STILL felt a *world* of difference. I really dunno what to tell ya...
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