Just spent $20 on buying 5ft engine ground from monster cable (8 gauge) and gold plated loop crimps.

Didn't drive it extensively but I tend to think my 3k hesitation is fixed. During the process, I used rough grit to rough up and clean the bolts and associated assemblies (bolts, battery mounts, etc).

The monster cable loop crimps come with heat shrink for covering the crimp area. Just you your crack torch or any other heat source.

I only installed the battery to chassis and the chassis to engine segments. Takes 15 minutes. I left the stock chassis to engine strap in place and simply ran the monster cable in parallel.

From the seat of the pants, the engine *seems* smoother. It is hard to tell as I don't have the "mind meld" going with this car yet (had it 2 weeks). Nevertheless, not once did I get a 3k hesitation. Granted I did remove the - battery cable and purposely reset the ECU.

Next steps, I suppose I want to get new grounding to the O2 sensor/cat and the ignition. If the chassis to engine segment is any indication, the oxidation on the con-joining bolts and such - they could use some fresh - continuity!

 

How long was the chassis to engine cable portion? Was 5 feet enough cable to do both?

 

Does anyone have a pic showing exactly where these locations are - nevermind, I will go search the helpwebsites before I ask.... what was I thinking...

 

It's easy. Let me re-phrase - stupid easy. The piece to the chassis to the engine is by the abs or by the passenger side if u don't know where that is. Or if you have eyesight it is the braided piece of crap they use next to the engine puller thingy-m-bob. That piece is about 6 inches - tops. The piece from the battery (that would be the negative or the one with the "-") is about 15" long. Plenty of cable from the 5 feet I got from the monster package. The only threaded hole by the strut tower (about 3") is threaded - use that one - you may want to rough up the surface area so you get a good contact.

Best of luck - PM me if you want further guidance. Oh yeah if you don't have a crack torch handy use a match :0 for the shrink wrap...

 

FYI, there is another braided ground from the back end of the main catalytic converter to the chassis. I replaced mine recently when I found it was just about ready to break, but can't say I noticed any difference. I haven't had the 3k hesitation prob.