hahahaahahhaahahhahahaha LMAO .....
ahhaha. ohh okay, anyways hope u got that fixed.. and from what i heard Greddy has a tendency to leak @ high boost.. not only on the rx7's but mr2's and other cars...


[/QUOTE]

 

[/QUOTE]


Yeah, I can't figure out if my boost flutter is from breakup or the BOV opening under boost. It sounds like it might be the BOV because I hear some squeaking when it does it.

 

LOL! Try the glove trick. who knows, the opening by the elbow might suck in air during idle.. My guess is that it will not.. But who knows until you try it.

But I have seen several cars in the past that blew air out of BOV during idle, but never such in.. I had to make sure that was true last night when I had my hood open.. Just to make sure

Good luck!

 

Ok guys, unfortunately I win this one and I have the pics to prove it. I say unfortunately because it means that I'll be selling my BOV and probably the elbow with it.

Here are the pics.

The first one I just used plastic wrap because I didn't have any latex gloves. Then I got to thinking, what else do I have that's latex? That's right ..... condoms!!

You can see the before and after.

In the 4th pic, you can see that I've got the screw tightened as far as it will go and the valve barely opens at all. It's pretty hard to press the valve in with my hand too.

 

Here are some more:

 

LOL! I don't know what you won.. But let me ask you.. what kind of turbo are you using and is all your IC piping and such sealed and not leaking??

 

I really don't think you have that much to worry about. I have a brand new Tail and it does the same thing, if I understand you correctly.

At idle, the BOV is wide open, however the second I touch the throttle, it instantly closes (without being under boost). Only at idle does it stay open, and lets face it, nobody here cruises down the freeway at idle, we're always under throttle, whether it be hard or soft. This freaked me out as well, until I was told that's just the way they are, I just don't think too many people notice that.

If the car is running fine, I wouldn't worry about it. If you're worried about unfiltered air, take the horn off and put a big *** filter on it.

 

No leaks, I hold 15 psi all day. I'm running '99 spec twins in sequential trim.

 

Do you have the 9 or 11 lb spring?

 

mmmm, that's a good question, and I suppose I should know the answer to that. Unfortunately, I don't know. I didn't do the install, I had it installed when I had some custum IC piping done, so I'm not sure which one they used, but the car was being built for 450wrhp @ 18psi (this was on the FJ20ET)

 

does anyone in this thread know how a blow-off valve works?

and herblenny, WTF?
why the hell are you all putting rubber gloves on your charge piping?

 

So is there a solution to this problem or will this setup just never work properly on an FD?

Also, are you sure it's not attributed to this: "The real unique feature of the GReddy Type-RS blow off valve is the CNC machined 8 discharge ports that draw
in the surrounding air to amplify the blow-off sound. The Greddy Type-RS is compatible with the standard GReddy flanges." ???

I might be interested in buying your setup for what you're asking...I just don't want to have any problems.

 

They're saying that there aren't any problems with it. I just think I'm gonna go a different route. I really like the way the BOV looks and sounds so that kinda sux.

 

So basically this is just "how it works"?

 

you guys are on crack! my BOV DOES NOT release any air at idle or vaccuum...i actually had to loosen the screw because when i slightly...slightly...revved the engine i would hear the weird whistling compressor surge noise

i also do not even see the screw stem in ur pictures

 

Did you even read?

Jeremy, Try couple of things.. 1. since you have the bov off, see if its still sucking in air thru the flange opening. If it does, like I said, if its close to the elbow it might suck in air..

If it doesn't suck in air at the flange, then my guess is that your BOV diaphram might be broken and sucking in air. But either case, I personally don't think it will damage your engine unless its going to suck in a nice size metal thru it.. Remember there are many 7 owners with single running without filter or with metal mesh for filter. Also I'm guessing vacuume pressure isn't much to really suck something big.

Good luck! Hope you get everything working correctly!

 

I replaced it with a sturdier bolt with a real head on it. It's screwed all the way in.

I'm not on crack by the way. Look at the pics man. Condoms don't lie!!!

 

so if the srew is pushed all the way in then the valve will be open? im confused.....were about should the srew be if im runnig stock boost?

 

It's really a matter of preference. I had mine all the way hard because I'm running 15+ psi. As long as when you let off the throttle after boost you hear it and you don't hear it at full boost, you're good. If you are pushing the valve open at say 8 psi and you see the boost fluttering, that means you need to tighten the valve as your boost pressure is opening the valve. If you get 10 psi and no flutter, you've adjusted it just right. You can even back it off a little until you get flutter then tighten about a half turn past that point. That's what I used for tuning to 12 psi. That way you get quick response when you let off the throttle.


I don't like having the valve open at idle so I'm switching to another type of BOV.

 

im telling you its messed up.....mine is NOT OPEN AT IDLE!!!!! how many of you guys with type S and RS have air blowing out at idle?

 

What vacuum does your car run at idle? Mine runs -18 in Hg and my Profec B reads -85 or -8.5 psi. When my engine is cold, it runs -20+ in Hg.

Maybe if we know what your manifold vacuum is, we can get to the bottom of this.

Jeremy

 

profec b spec II reads -73 to -85 at 900rpm depending on i donno...just changes depending on electrical load and weather


defi boost gauge reads -18hg

pfs purple box controller reads -22hg

 

Either A) My spring is weaker than yours. Could be a possibility.

or

B) You've got your's tightened so far that it won't open. Does the BOV vent when you let off?

or

C) you're not pulling the same vacuum at your BOV that your Profec is seeing.
I can make mine not open at idle too but then again, it won't open ever.

I'm not worried about it, I'm moving on to a different type of BOV altogether. Thanks for the insight guys.

 

screw is half way in, vents perfectly and crisp

 

Where is your vacuum source? Is it routed from the UIM nipple or somewhere else?