MazdaSpeed93

It spins inside the pulley area, any suggestions?

MakoRacing

iTrader: (12)

Remove the whole thing!

afterburn27

iTrader: (5)

That is your airpump, you can usually find them going for pretty cheap in the for sale/wanted section.

MazdaSpeed93

All right, i plan on getting a mp anyways and i heard that you can remove the airpump when you put the mp on so i will do that. Is it normal for that to start squeaking though?

cooljerk187

i have one i can sell you for 20 shipped... pm me

silver_7

yea it is normal actually.

afterburn27

iTrader: (5)

I don't think squealing is normal, I have a custom K&N intake and my airpump makes a 'growling/mooing' sound like many others have described. But I think squealing indicates that the airpump is going bad.

MazdaSpeed93: What ECU are you running? If you are using a standalone such as the PFC then you should be able to remove the airpump without negative effects. But if you are using the stock ECU or a chipped ECU, then you may want to leave it in because removal will mess up your idle and throttle response.

alberto_mg

could it be old belts squeaking? when was the last time the belts were replaced?

RX7Wishing

i agree. Make sure the belt is still nice and tightt

mquraish

iTrader: (1)

squealing means the pump is going bad - just disconnect it, it doesn't serve any truly useful purpose according to Cam at Pettit. If you need to get emissions testing, just reconnect it for that.

RX7Wishing

Sorry but your wrong.. a looose belt will also cause it to squak like a seagull thats dying.. Ask me how i know.

jic

iTrader: (1)

how do u know?

RX7Wishing

Because i didn't tighten the tension adjustment bolt thingy under the Airpump after i had it taken apart. I drove the care and it slowly started slipping then the squeling started. i idled th car and popped the hood, and from the same area as the airpump was this squaling dead seagull sound. you could visualy see the belt was not tight enough. So i retorqued down that 12mm bolt (After adjusting belt) and the seagul being runover by a truck sound was gone.

luizajeff

The air pump does serve a purpose though. It's part of the anti "After Burn" system and keeps the cat from melt down (if I'm not mistaken, which I could be) but only if you keep the stock cat. A MP will require re-tuning though. What about emissions? How do folks pass with mp (unless emissions isn't required)?

manny34711

do what i did and take it all out, then remove the bar under the car aswell. saves weight and space and u can sorta see the turbo better

sicminded

i was irritated by the squeling too. i replaced mine, thinking it was not normal. still squels... around the 2.5k-3k rpm range. do a search in this section by post by me, i posted a vid of my car doing some squeling, and a more detailed description of issues.

chris

rx7what

iTrader: (6)

the smog pump is only for smog. I took mine out and it had NO EFFECT ON ANY THING. I keep hearing people on here say your car wont idle right or it will over heat.. and all i have to say is NO. all it does is send air down to your cat which makes it hotter which burns the unspent fuel better. Just remove it and keep it for when you need to smog it. I threw mine away.

RX7Wishing

I removed mine and i had a rougher idle. i also sat at 13psi of vaccum vs the 17 i ussaly had. Maybe diff ECU codes react differently to its removal them others? But i can vouch for issues after i removed mine.. Reinstalled and everything was back to normal.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

MazdaSpeed93, from some of your previous posts I gathered your still running the stock ECU. I also assume you've got a downpipe and can see you have an open intake. Aside from the various problems most have when removing the AP, adding a MP without some fuel management (Upgraded ECU or PFC) is asking for serious trouble.

PhoenixDownVII

I love this kind of BS. Which is it, damnit? It's the same thing as dino vs. synthetic, npg vs. water/coolant, blah blah everything else rotary....

fd0

iTrader: (8)

If you do remove your air pump, you will need to make sure to "fool" your ecu into thinking that it's still connected. If not, it will throw a code.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

And how do you go about "tricking" your ECU? Is it a simple wire loop? or is it something more?

rynberg

No it won't. You can't fool it into thinking it's connected, because it has no way of knowing it's there.

riptor

ok os the big question is...does it need to be ther or not..?

rynberg

WRONG. Try reading the FSM some time....

Have fun bribing a smog inspector every 2 years.