So... this reman is a motor that was not opened up, just installed out of the box? I saw some pretty nasty stuff with remans not too long ago on this forum. Forgot who posted it. If it were me, I'd pick up a reman with new housings and have someone reputable go through the engine. Good luck with your decision

 

Sorry to hear this Matt. Hopefully you'll be back up and running and on the track in no time.


Soon enough... just give me a little more time and the testing will begin.


What a ride that was!! You saved it very well both times and didn't miss a beat!

 

you could buy 99spec twins or BNR stage 3 twins i believe they are the same price.

 

The reman was installed right before I bought the car. I don't know that PFS rebuilds the remans they use, so I assume it was put in just the way it came.

Looking to avoid the stock/99 spec/BNR type turbos for the heat reasons Fritz was talking about which is why I wanted to know if there was a good single turbo solution that yielded stock-like performance. Also, because after 17 years, the solenoids and other sequential control bits are going to start wearing out and become more of a maintenance item.

 

Matt, the smaller 35R is very comparable. Fritz had one on his 95 SSM R2. He actually sold the kit not too long ago. It doesn't have the top end like a larger single, but sounds like it would be exactly what you are looking for. Want to say it's a .84 maybe opposed to the 1.06?

 

To go single turbo you you will need to upgrade your engine management and fuel system....as well as IC, radiator and ignition, if you have not already done so.

We run the .84 35R on our shop project convertible, it puts down 435rwhp at 15psi

 

Just a little update. Before I make plans to pull the motor out I want to be 100% sure that I've diagnosed the problem correctly. Please see the attached video and if anyone can chime in and let me know if this could be anything other than a failing coolant seal (turbo seal leak, or ?), I'd appreciate it.

http://vimeo.com/6643777

An interesting thing to note is that the majority of the bubbles only come out once the throttle plate is snapped closed.

 

If it happens when you snap the tb closed it would seem to me that the leak is in the seal in an area around where the intake port is... closing the tb would make a tiny spike in internal motor pressure eh?

Probably explains why the leak is so slow...