duval7

iTrader: (1)

I am kind of an FD newbie so i will do my best to explain. i bought a 93 r1 and it ran great except it was hard to start and when you got it started the idle was all over the place. After you drive it 15 min. it idled great and would start right up. so i got the injectors cleaned balanced and new o rings installed. I put everything back in and UIM on and started the car and the idle was very steady just like i had hoped but now the car has zero power, very slow to rev and there is a weird ticking coming from the exhaust. the ticking can be heard best where the downpipe bolts to the turbos it might be coming from the turbo closest to the firewall. i dont know if i have an exhaust leak or if my turbos are going out or if i messed something up reinstalling the injectors. i removed he UIM again to see if i missed anything but everything was hooked up right. As far as the fuel system i never removed the defusers i just lifted the injectors out but i did the replace the seals they sit on. i keep thinking i did something wrong putting the injectors back in but fuel wouln't cause that ticking sound from the turbos and when i say no power i mean it will barely move and it sounds like a 4wheeler. i am not sure what mods were done before i got the car i know the air pump is gone and the first 4 solenoids are gone and alot of block off plates are on the UIM, but like i said the car ran great before i took the injectors out so i screwed something up. Please help. Thanks.

Sprockett

Check all the vacuum lines. You could have missed one. Could have also mixed up the injectors (mixed up primaries and secondaries). Not sure if that would cause that problem, but it seems like a possibility.

duval7

iTrader: (1)

i don't think you can mix up injectors, i think they are different lengths and will only fit in the right rails. as for the vaccum lines i have double checked the lines and they are good to go, that was my first guess too. thanks for the input though.

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

The primary rail needs to be modified to fit the secondary injectors.

It's most likely a vacuum line.

Did you check the line to the MAP sensor?

twomucboost4u

iTrader: (9)

duval the injector can be plugged in wrong. They are however diferent colors I believe primaries are white secondaries are orange or visa versa, I made the mistake of putting on backwars and it would idle but as soon as id try to drive it would cut out and sounds horrible. An exhaust leak wouldnt make th car not drive. By the way you have described sounds like someone did the simplified twins vacuum set-up. Check injector plugs and go from there. Did you hook up the right solenoids to the right electrical plug? Maybe if you take pictures might be able to tell you more.

Chris

Sprockett

Sorry, that's what I meant...plugging them in wrong

And if the MAP line was off, I don't think it'd be idling right.

duval7

iTrader: (1)

thanks for your help guys but i am pretty sure i plugged everything into the right place. the injector connectors don't have enough slack to plug them in different spots. i thought about that on the begining also and rechecked the connections. as for the MAP sensor is that the boost sensor on the firewall on the drivers side? anyway it has a vaccum line coming out the bottom of it running to the UIM but it is connected and the line is good so i don't think that is it. as for the two sensors on the passangers side of the front of the UIM i labeled them so i wouldn't get them swapped up when i reconnected them. also is that what the CAS sensors are, someone told me that i might have them swapped but i didn't know what the CAS sensors are. also what about timing i forgot to mention that before i pulled the injectors i did a deflood procedure and mixed up the spark plug cables when i tried to crank it and that was the night i decided to pull the injectors and get them cleaned. could that cause any problems with its current running condition. sorry i just remembered doing that. thanks for everyones input.

supraturbo1987

iTrader: (4)

maybe I am ignorant, but if you switched around the CAS connectors, would the car still start smoothly?

Trev