Ok... found another 13b-REW (1996 series 7).
It says 115psi on both rotors with 50,000miles.
I think compression is really good for a engine mileage.
But this compression test was done at home, not professionally.
What is the difference of doing it at home and getting it done professionally?
Does home tested 115psi sounds good to you guys?
I'm gonna check out the engine tomorrow, but before that I'm hoping to get some advice from you guys.

One more thing he said was that, he thinks the engine had a rebuilt before comming over from Japan 6 month ago.

What should I look for when checking the engine? should I make him do the comp test again?

This engine is said to be factory... but with three mods.
- standard intercooler with HKS piping.
- HKS exhaust
- RE air filter

Other than above, it's factory.
Sounds good?

Help me out here... only have 2 weeks to go!

PS: mine is series 6, but it has PFC. If I get this engine, do I just need to use my old engine harness? or is there any modifications needed?

 

CR sounds fine to me.

 

I'm currently doing a Series 7 engine swap into my Series 6 as we speak and I can tell you right now that there is alot more invovled than simply dropping in the engine.

Yes you do need to change the entire front harness as well as dash harnesses and by that I mean removing the entire dash, front fenders, etc to get to the wiring harnesses. Its a very big job and very time consuming.

I bought an entire half cut which came with the front/dash/instrument harnesses intact so if you are simply buying an engine alone with only an engine harness its going to be extremely difficult as you might not already know, the Series 7 engine is alot different from the Series 6 in that it runs off a 16bit ECU not 8bit.

Having said that you might as well start putting your PFC up for sale as that too is design for the Series 6 engine only and the Series 7 harnesses will not plug into it.

Don't get me wrong it is possible to get an auto electrician to do some custom work to get it working, but it'll probably cost you alot more than simply swapping the wiring harnesses over.

So my advice for you right now is not to worry too much about the engine, but where your going to find a front/dash/instrument harness as well as a Series 7 gauge cluster and ECU.

 

Can't I just use the block it self? and ditch the other bits?
If not... ****... it's gonna be a problem

 

The two engines may appear to be the same on the outside but underneath the Series 7 solenoid setup is alot different to the S6 as well as a few other changes meaning the rats nest looks alot less complicated.

If you use the block and ditch the other bits your better off buying a S6 motor instead as the S7 is abit more expensive, and having said that the S7 motor is well worth the time and money as many have found less problems being a more refined and updated article.

Ring up your local workshop and tell them what you want to do and they too will tell you the same thing as I've yet to hear of anyone doing this swap without having to go through a major wiring change.

 

Cheers for the info. I went to check it out the engine and it was mint!
He is saying he can de sequential the turbo and ditch out the rats nest and as well as using the series 6 harness.
I will update the post if this works!