Good baseline alignment for track car?
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
Track day today... It turns out my rear rode height was too high. Dropping it 10 mm took two seconds off my time.
I was short-shifting at 6000 rpms but shifting at 7000 made my car MUCH more stable. And faster in the straits, of course. I think I drove faster than I've ever driven today.... haha (127 mph). I ended up going another two seconds faster.
All in all, I beat the time I did at this track with R-comps (using street tires).
I was short-shifting at 6000 rpms but shifting at 7000 made my car MUCH more stable. And faster in the straits, of course. I think I drove faster than I've ever driven today.... haha (127 mph). I ended up going another two seconds faster.
All in all, I beat the time I did at this track with R-comps (using street tires).
The FD likes about a 1/2 or even 3/4 inches of rake. Or if the front is 25.25 inches the rear should be 25.75 to 26
I see way too many FDs with equal or worse a lower rear ride height than front which will induce push or slow you down.
Are tire temps and pressures coming up a lot more now?
I don't believe you are getting these HUGE improvements in lap time from the changes you are making to the car. This is from you getting more familiar with the track and better/more-consistent/faster as a driver! Fantastic progress 
Are tire temps and pressures coming up a lot more now?
Are tire temps and pressures coming up a lot more now?
This was a different, much longer, much faster track, so the temperatures were much higher. The extra time came *mostly* from the car being much more stable (it was a shocking difference), but also from being about 5-6 mph faster in the straights.
I still occasionally get some anomolies but they tend to go away when I measure that tire again. OTOH, the longer the tire cools, the more even temperatures tend to be. That, and I occasionally write the temps down for the wrong tire or write them backwards...
My boost keeps fluctuating from about 0.5 bar to 0.8 bar (what it's set for). I guess given the same wastegate spring (set for 0.8 bar), that's naturally going to happen depending on the temperature and air pressure. But I'd much prefer it be consistent...
Dropping the rear (it was probably much too high) didn't induce understeer at all. If anything, it had less understeer because the stability allowed to be more aggressive in making the front tires work.
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,233
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Track day today... It turns out my rear rode height was too high. Dropping it 10 mm took two seconds off my time.
I was short-shifting at 6000 rpms but shifting at 7000 made my car MUCH more stable. And faster in the straits, of course. I think I drove faster than I've ever driven today.... haha (127 mph). I ended up going another two seconds faster.
All in all, I beat the time I did at this track with R-comps (using street tires).
I was short-shifting at 6000 rpms but shifting at 7000 made my car MUCH more stable. And faster in the straits, of course. I think I drove faster than I've ever driven today.... haha (127 mph). I ended up going another two seconds faster.
All in all, I beat the time I did at this track with R-comps (using street tires).
FWIW my grouping was pretty good as most of my clear laps in each session that I didn't bungle too badly were within about second of each other (on a 3.7-km course).
I really need to get another alignment... as soon as I replace my bumper and fix my fenders.... Woops.






