Going synthetic. Quick questions synthetic guys
#51
Potato Love
Thread Starter
Sorry for starting world war 3. Everyone around here gets so gestapo without any hard evidence. Thanks for all the input. Run what you want, I'm going to 10-30 M1 until I find a good reason to switch, like I did with sythetic in the first place.
#52
Potato Love
Thread Starter
Sorry for starting world war 3. Everyone around here gets so gestapo without any hard evidence. Thanks for all the input. Run what you want, I'm going to 10-30 M1 until I find a good reason to switch, like I did with sythetic in the first place.
#53
Potato Love
Thread Starter
Sorry for starting world war 3. Everyone around here gets so gestapo without any hard evidence. Thanks for all the input. Run what you want, I'm going to 10-30 M1 until I find a good reason to switch, like I did with sythetic in the first place.
#54
rotor rotor pow.
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by adam c
For what its worth, Tri Point Engineering recommends synthetic in a 20-50 weight.
#55
I currently run mobil 1 in all of my piston cars, but I wasn't sure of how it worked with the oil injectors and everything. I've heard you have to have oil the burns? Should I switch to mobil 1 soon?
#56
No Game
Join Date: Nov 2004
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If reading the weights correctly first number is cold optimal running and second weight is hot optimal condition running. in theory wouldn't the widest range be most useful? Unless you have really hot morning or really cold nights?
I don't know I'll see the happy medium between 10 -30 and 20-50 and go with15-40
take the good take the bad take em both and there you have.
I don't know I'll see the happy medium between 10 -30 and 20-50 and go with15-40
take the good take the bad take em both and there you have.
#57
Originally Posted by rynberg
Read your owner's manual.
Mazda dont/dident leave any warranty if you use synthetics.
I dont say its wrong to use synthetics, but why dont mazda recommend it? Must be reason?
#58
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Zebb
I dont say its wrong to use synthetics, but why dont mazda recommend it? Must be reason?
#59
Originally Posted by Larz
When I switch to synthetic, should I change it then do it again after about 500 miles to ensure the majority of dino oil is out?
#61
Originally Posted by Mahjik
The rotary engine injects oil into the combustion chambers for lubrication. Earlier synthetics didn't burn well leaving behind deposits which would shorten a motor's lifespan. That's not the case with today's synthetics.
One major thing about synthetics is that its so much more expensive than mineral oil. Fuel and lubricant are very expensive here in sweden. For example; regular 95 octane gas cost $1,5/litre (0,26gallon).
#62
Mi Casa Yu Casa
Join Date: Feb 2004
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Originally Posted by rynberg
Additionally, those with a good oil cooling setup should definitely NOT run 20w50 in street driving. Even in the summer, my dual 25-row Rotary Extreme setup is running about 175-180F; in the winter, my oil temps on the highway are below 170F. I don't want to be running 20w50 in those conditions.
I have a 96RS with twin stock oil coolers. Im seeing oil temps fluctuate from 60~DegC (cruising 15DegC Ambient Temp) and 100~DegC (stuck in traffic 30DegC Ambient).
Recently I changed my bumper to the Sanai Works which has two very large openings for the oil coolers, and I made up some ducting out of sheet aluminium to make sure they are getting all the air they need.
If Im seeing oil temps drop to 60DegC or less should I be worried about my oil thermostat? Shouldnt it be stopping the oil temps drop too low?
PS.. Im using Mobil 1 15-30
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