Sorry for starting world war 3. Everyone around here gets so gestapo without any hard evidence. Thanks for all the input. Run what you want, I'm going to 10-30 M1 until I find a good reason to switch, like I did with sythetic in the first place.

 

Sorry for starting world war 3. Everyone around here gets so gestapo without any hard evidence. Thanks for all the input. Run what you want, I'm going to 10-30 M1 until I find a good reason to switch, like I did with sythetic in the first place.

 

Sorry for starting world war 3. Everyone around here gets so gestapo without any hard evidence. Thanks for all the input. Run what you want, I'm going to 10-30 M1 until I find a good reason to switch, like I did with sythetic in the first place.

 

yup i talked to tripoint when i first got my fd since they did most of the work and maintenance on the fd for the previous owner. as far as gas mileage running 10-30 synth vs 20-50 synthetic i found that on long road trips with 20-50 my cruising gas efficiency was better by 3-4mpg as compared to 10-30. oil consumption was also a bit more conservative with the higher viscosity oil, 1/4 quart in 3000miles, vs 1/2 to 3/4 quart @ 2500 miles. im now running 15-40 castrol gtx

 

I currently run mobil 1 in all of my piston cars, but I wasn't sure of how it worked with the oil injectors and everything. I've heard you have to have oil the burns? Should I switch to mobil 1 soon?

 

If reading the weights correctly first number is cold optimal running and second weight is hot optimal condition running. in theory wouldn't the widest range be most useful? Unless you have really hot morning or really cold nights?

I don't know I'll see the happy medium between 10 -30 and 20-50 and go with15-40

take the good take the bad take em both and there you have.

 

Yeah, do that rynberg, it says: "Mineral oil only".

Mazda dont/dident leave any warranty if you use synthetics.


I dont say its wrong to use synthetics, but why dont mazda recommend it? Must be reason?

 

The rotary engine injects oil into the combustion chambers for lubrication. Earlier synthetics didn't burn well leaving behind deposits which would shorten a motor's lifespan. That's not the case with today's synthetics.

 

1/5 of the old oil will remain. Second change 1/25... etc.

 

So regular mobile one combusts as normal oil would? Will I void a warrantly from a dealership?

 

Ok, so todays synthetics will burn as good as the old/new mineral oils? What does the 2002 Rx-7 manual says you think? My japanese are so bad so i guess i will never know

One major thing about synthetics is that its so much more expensive than mineral oil. Fuel and lubricant are very expensive here in sweden. For example; regular 95 octane gas cost $1,5/litre (0,26gallon).

 

I have a 96RS with twin stock oil coolers. Im seeing oil temps fluctuate from 60~DegC (cruising 15DegC Ambient Temp) and 100~DegC (stuck in traffic 30DegC Ambient).

Recently I changed my bumper to the Sanai Works which has two very large openings for the oil coolers, and I made up some ducting out of sheet aluminium to make sure they are getting all the air they need.

If Im seeing oil temps drop to 60DegC or less should I be worried about my oil thermostat? Shouldnt it be stopping the oil temps drop too low?

PS.. Im using Mobil 1 15-30

 

guess I will be trying synthetic on my next oil change