Going synthetic. Quick questions synthetic guys
#26
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
And why wouldn't they recommend their higher priced oil?
#27
Mr. Links
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Originally Posted by superior_force
just fyi, 15w-50 Mobil 1 is the same price as 10w-30 or other weights....thought that was common knowledge
The fact is, rarely will you ever heat the oil up enough to really break it down fast on the street and require something heavier than a 30 weight. Take a look at rynberg's message who does have an oil temp monitor. At the temps you'll ever see on the street, 50 weights will be doing more harm than good.
#28
5yr member, joined 2001
Considering it costs $40+ dollars to fill an FD with gas, I don't see the big deal about spending an extra $20 every 2,000 miles for the better oil, even if it's overkill.
#29
Mr. Links
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Originally Posted by JONSKI
Considering it costs $40+ dollars to fill an FD with gas, I don't see the big deal about spending an extra $20 every 2,000 miles for the better oil, even if it's overkill.
#30
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
What exactly do you think the positives are for running a 50 weight on the street?
My rationale with the heavier weight 15w50 was to to try to counter the thinning properties of the fuel, which in my estimation quickly turns 15w50 into something more akin to 10w30. Especially a concern with the turbos.
But like I said, It's been a while since I've used 10w30 and I'll give it a try and see how it goes this next change. Your points about cold start-up, pushing it through some internals when still fresh, and lowering my already poor mileage is also a concern. Since I don't have an oil temp guage, those readings from rynberg were also interesting.
#31
Mr. Links
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
Viscosity maintanence over time between oil changes.
My rationale with the heavier weight 15w50 was to to try to counter the thinning properties of the fuel, which in my estimation quickly turns 15w50 into something more akin to 10w30. Especially a concern with the turbos.
My rationale with the heavier weight 15w50 was to to try to counter the thinning properties of the fuel, which in my estimation quickly turns 15w50 into something more akin to 10w30. Especially a concern with the turbos.
#32
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FYI... many racing teams use like 0w-20 oils for the track. Ofcourse, they change it after every race.
But I dont understand how people feel good about mixing up oil and thinking that they do good to the engine. Are you sure its good to mix up ? Or do you just feel it should be good for the engine ?
But I dont understand how people feel good about mixing up oil and thinking that they do good to the engine. Are you sure its good to mix up ? Or do you just feel it should be good for the engine ?
#33
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Originally Posted by superior_force
true, but it's also true that Mobil recommends 15w-50 for "hot running" turbocharged engines, so unless new data shows it's unecessary, they have it all wrong or they are trying to sell higher viscosity oil to the public for the wrong reasons (why?)....15w-50 syn probably behaves more like a straight 30 weight under most conditions so I don't see it as a big deal, not like a straight 60 weight true racing oil or something
again, lab testing would be very informative here
again, lab testing would be very informative here
I think running havy weight oil on rotarys is not a good thing to do, by the time the motor warms up especialy, the lubrication while the oil is still thick and flows alot slower will be very poor because the oil injection in the motor will be minimal compare to lighter weight oils.
#35
Resident Know-it-All
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i run 5/50 castrol syntec. I have a seperate MOP tank with 2 stroke oil in it, so that isnt a problem for me.
I think one of the things you guys are missing is that 5/50 isnt 50 weight when its only partly warmed up. it doesnt switch between its cold and hot viscosities directly, it slowly changes, so if you are running colder, then the apparent viscosity wont be 50w, it will be 30 or 40 or whatever it is for that temperature.
anyway, im very happy with what i use, it keeps the car cooler, doesnt seem to coke up in the turbo, and lasts a long time. I'm positive that my engine and turbo are much saafer with this stuff than with any weight of dino oil.
pat
I think one of the things you guys are missing is that 5/50 isnt 50 weight when its only partly warmed up. it doesnt switch between its cold and hot viscosities directly, it slowly changes, so if you are running colder, then the apparent viscosity wont be 50w, it will be 30 or 40 or whatever it is for that temperature.
anyway, im very happy with what i use, it keeps the car cooler, doesnt seem to coke up in the turbo, and lasts a long time. I'm positive that my engine and turbo are much saafer with this stuff than with any weight of dino oil.
pat
#36
Mr. Links
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Originally Posted by cruiser
But I dont understand how people feel good about mixing up oil and thinking that they do good to the engine. Are you sure its good to mix up ? Or do you just feel it should be good for the engine ?
#37
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Originally Posted by patman
I think one of the things you guys are missing is that 5/50 isnt 50 weight when its only partly warmed up...
BTW, since the temps I posted are being discussed, I feel obliged to mention that these are being achieved with dual 25-row oil coolers, NOT the stock setup. In fact, I think ANY modded FD should be running at least the stock dual cooler setup, even for street driving. Even my cruising temps were 35 to 40 degrees hotter with just the single stock cooler.
#38
Mr. Links
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Originally Posted by rynberg
BTW, since the temps I posted are being discussed, I feel obliged to mention that these are being achieved with dual 25-row oil coolers, NOT the stock setup. In fact, I think ANY modded FD should be running at least the stock dual cooler setup, even for street driving. Even my cruising temps were 35 to 40 degrees hotter with just the single stock cooler.
However, (not directed at you), I don't see an addition 35-40 degrees from that point breaking down 10w30 so quickly to justify anything heavier for the street.
#40
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Originally Posted by TwinTurbo93
I think running havy weight oil on rotarys is not a good thing to do, by the time the motor warms up especialy, the lubrication while the oil is still thick and flows alot slower will be very poor because the oil injection in the motor will be minimal compare to lighter weight oils.
Mobil 1 15w-50 pours extremely well, even cold....it's really not as "thick" as you pundits are making it out to be (who have probably never used it)
like I said three times now, unless someone is willing to get a sample analyzed this is all worthless speculation....and I stand by my bet that 2k miles in a twin turbo rotary with the stock (single) oil cooler will result in significant viscosity degradation, at least 10-20% or more
#42
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Originally Posted by superior_force
oh bullshit
Mobil 1 15w-50 pours extremely well, even cold....it's really not as "thick" as you pundits are making it out to be (who have probably never used it)
like I said three times now, unless someone is willing to get a sample analyzed this is all worthless speculation....and I stand by my bet that 2k miles in a twin turbo rotary with the stock (single) oil cooler will result in significant viscosity degradation, at least 10-20% or more
Mobil 1 15w-50 pours extremely well, even cold....it's really not as "thick" as you pundits are making it out to be (who have probably never used it)
like I said three times now, unless someone is willing to get a sample analyzed this is all worthless speculation....and I stand by my bet that 2k miles in a twin turbo rotary with the stock (single) oil cooler will result in significant viscosity degradation, at least 10-20% or more
I rane 20W50 full synth. in my motor, seen no difference, and I came to conclusion that 20W50 might not be the right oil for street use as everyone else here is sayng.
I gave my opinion, but that's just what I beleive, after reading millions of threads here about it and I think 15W30 is just prefect for street use.
Till you come up with some real proof you can't realy put up numbers and vauch for them, you can of course have your opinion.
#43
Cheap Bastard
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Originally Posted by Larz
When I switch to synthetic, should I change it then do it again after about 500 miles to ensure the majority of dino oil is out?
When you change it the first time, the majority of conventional oil will be out
I wouldn't worry about changing it again before it is normally scheduled.
EDIT: For what its worth, Tri Point Engineering recommends synthetic in a 20-50 weight.
Last edited by adam c; 04-05-05 at 12:24 PM.
#44
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Originally Posted by adam c
I have an oil temp gauge, and the stock single oil cooler. In normal driving, after the car is warmed up, I see oil temps vary from around 200 to 250 degrees. This would be on an average 75 degree day. The higher temps would be around town, in city traffic.
#45
5yr member, joined 2001
Originally Posted by Mahjik
Well, considering it's much harder on the engine (i.e wearing out parts sooner) and can/will cause worse gas mileage since the car works harder to push it through....
Originally Posted by Mahjik
IMO, those are maybe not "big deals" but something people should really avoid.
How do these threads keep getting started?
#46
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Originally Posted by JONSKI
How do these threads keep getting started?
#47
5yr member, joined 2001
Originally Posted by Sgtblue
#50
Mr. Links
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Originally Posted by JONSKI
There has never been any reported failures due to a synthetic or conventional oil preference.