revhardallday

iTrader: (1)

is there a way to drive it so i wont boost at all like juss motor no boost untill i get the other mods?

rynberg

We don't know because you didn't answer my question regarding the wastegate spring. You can't lower the boost below the wastegate spring pressure.

In any case, no you can't just throw a single turbo setup on and have it work right. How did you deal with the rat's nest?

revhardallday

iTrader: (1)

i juss want to know if i can drive the car with out boosting like have a boost leak on purpouse so i wont boost!

revhardallday

iTrader: (1)

44mm wastegate

BobfisH

yeah you can drive it and not boost by putting a brick under the gas pedal and keeping it in vac on your boost gauge.

problem with this is:

a) RX7s are NOT fast in Vac. Not even fast at atmospheric. Youll have trouble getting to 55 without boosting; seriously.

b) If you see a viper or something that wants to play, you might end up blowing your motor by thinking "ill just give it a little, itll be ok"

And in response to the guy that posted the dyno graph, 10psi on a GT35r is NOT the same airflow as 10psi on twins, its much greater - hence lean. I agre if his AFRs stay right, he will be ok, but his AFRs will NOT stay right because the stock ECU will be thinking 8psi = 40lbs/min airflow or so, so needs x amount of fuel, when actually 8psi is delivering 80 or so lbs of airflow with a GT35 but your getting no fuel.

Honestly bud, youve bought yourself a killer turbo there, and you will have a VERY fast car when all is said and done, IF you do it right..

Howver, if you dont, youll have an expensive metal ornament. Infact, youll probably have a stock car because you would have sold your brand new turbo kit, front mount IC and wheels to pay for a new engine and twins.

Cgotto6

iTrader: (8)

Yep

revhardallday

iTrader: (1)

ok i need to drive to work only! have no other way! wat can i do so i dont boost at all i dont care about power right now ill do that wen i get the other upgrades...can i juss leave one intecooler pippip off or something like that .... i dont want to boost!!!! for now!

twisted7

iTrader: (3)

did you install the turbo or not? you cannot properly drive the car without the correct injectors and fuel system, you will need to make sure that you have a wideband as well to watch your afrs. A pfc will be required to correctly run the car. you will need to remove your rats nest and upgrade your clutch. You will then probably need an ignition system to correctly induce spark with the correct amount of volts.

THIS IS NOT A GAME. Moding a car is a serious deal. You need to research what you are doing before you do it.

We cannot tell you what to do we can only warn you. If you fail to take our advice, your car will end up costing you more money, rebuilt engine perhaps. Than that cheap turbo kit of yours will actually be the cheapest thing you bought in this endeaver.

NissanConvert

iTrader: (1)

I don't see how 10psi of manifold absolute pressure can be anything but 10psi of manifold absolute pressure. regardless of the turbo or supercharger that is on the car. The manifold will not flow any more CFM of air just because you bolt a new turbo on to it. *granted* the single turbo exhaust manifold probably *does* flow better which is why you still need to watch your AFRs & injector duty cycles.

The new turbo doesn't mean he *will* blow his engine hell people blow their engines with the stock turbos. IMHO if he's careful the car will survive.

Note: nissanconvert will not be held responsible for damages caused by you following my *opinion*

anyone wanna give me a physics lesson?

revhardallday

iTrader: (1)

nissanconvert i juss need to drive to work and back! i dont want to boost so i can be safe! wat can i do so i wont boost?

evo2fd baby

Once the turbo is on and exhaust is flowing to the turbines thers nothing that will stop you from boosting other then your foot. To me it sounds like you have no idea what your talking about and need to rethink your strategy. I mean you got a deal on your 35r, thats great. But WTF are you thinking putting it on the car with no supporting mods then asking how you can drive a turbo car and not boost??

haha people amaze me.

evo2fd baby

I guess you can throw a filter on your throttle body pipe and just let the turbo blow out hott air.

dontlift

The easiest way? Put the old turbo back on the car...

EDIT:
LOL, that'll be dog slow (an NA engine with a big turbo stuck in its exhaust). Just make sure the turbo is breathing thru a filter also.

HKNY

iTrader: (2)

This is a perfect example why the FD isn't considered a good daily driver.It would probably be easier throwing the twins back on than it would to possibly blow your motor.

NissanConvert

iTrader: (1)

If you've got a sufficient wastegate maintaining a proper (<11psi) level of boost then reliable boost shouldn't be an issue. You need a boost gauge & wideband. Keep an eye on both as well as your injector duties. Manage your boost levels with your right foot and keep a close eye on afrs & injector duties- lift immediately if afrs during boost go lean or injector duties rise above 80, 85 or whatever you're comfortable with. I would set my max boost at at least 1psi less then when i lifted. You have a separate EBC right?

look very seriously into getting your primaries machined to accept 850cc injectors or procuring larger secondaries.

BoostedTimmy

Please sell me your single set up, I'll throw in my twins they boost great.

rynberg

If you get the turbo kit installed PROPERLY and drive it like a complete granny, you will be safe on the stock ecu. There, you have the answer you wanted now.

I strongly suggest you get the supporting mods immediately and get them installed.

BobfisH

No offence dude, but dont give advice if your not sure.

He CANNOT run 11psi on this turbo, it will blow his motor.

A bigger turbo flows more air at a given pressure. 11Psi on a GT35 is not the same airflow as 11psi on stock twins. How else do you think cars with massive turbos produce 450hp at 13psi or so but you only get 320ish at 14psi on twins?

Rynberg is right, if you drive the car like a TOTAL granny you *might* be ok to go to work and back, but seriously - entering the freeway is going to be trouble.

Do NOT get your primarys machined to 850cc. Yeah it works, but they make the car drive like crap and they break and blow your motor - do a search.

Buy a proper 1680cc secondary injector kit. Then get a PFC and upgraded fuel pump and you should be good to go with a conservative tune on your current setup.

NissanConvert

iTrader: (1)

<11psi means "less than 11psi" i *never* told him to run 11lbs. furthermore i clearly instructed him to watch his AFRs and injector duties. If those don't go out of spec it doesn't matter.


I don't think i've seen any stock port cars make 450hp @13psi. Big turbos move the efficiency range up. a massive turbo at 10psi is going to be a slow pig compared to my twins. we can argue back an forth all day long but since psi isn't a measure of how much air gets into the engine but instead how much pressure is waiting at the manifold i don't see where you're getting this "his car will explode" business.

If he had a full bridged car, with a custom UIM & LIM, a big front mount, a SS manifold & a 4" turbo back exhaust (with mid-pipe) yeah- i'd say your car is soon to be toast. but if his car is damn near bone stock and the turbo is installed properly. I also read the OP wrong- i thought he had the PFC already.

I think the jury is still out on that one. And i said get the rail machined to accept 850cc's not get the 550cc's bored out. I've read that having 1680cc secondaries isn't exactly the most smooth transition. also- if he's making 10psi ~3500rpm he's going to need more fuel on the primaries unless again i'm confused with my physics.

seandizzie

iTrader: (1)

Please find out what bar/psi spring is in the wastegate, that will determine the lowest level of boost you can run. The boost controller will only raise boost, not lower it below the spring pressure. It sounds like you are in over your head!!! Find some one in your area that can help you. Or search and read on this fourm before go much further..

Just keep the rpms low and DON"T try to boost it hard.

Will the stock ecu run with the rats nest unpluged??

EDITon't leave the boost pipe unpluged to keep it out of boost, you can kill the turbo that way. Some one sell him their old set of stock twins!!!!

crazyrx7

First of all he can't keep an eye on his injector duty because he doesn't have a power fc.

Secondly if he bores out his primaries to 850's; the stock ecu still sees them as 550's and dumps in fuel accordingly. But you now have a bigger injector so you will most likely flood the car on first startup because it will be dumping in so much fuel.

Limiting his boost is done by a boost controller but if his wastegate is 14psi or more he is screwed. A boost controller cannot lower the boost any lower than the wastegate spring pressure.

The only answer is to not drive the car. The gt35r spools so fast that you will likely blow the motor before you let off the gas. Like Rynberg said "did you do anything with the rats nest?" Do you even know what the ratsnest is? Did you buy all of the block off plates? You have a lot of learning to do. You are about $5000-6000 short of doing a proper single conversion. Just park the car and buy a $500 dd and be done with it until you can afford the rest of the mods.

If you don't take our advice then budget another $4000 for a motor. Thats all I have to say.

R.K.

dradon03

iTrader: (2)

Basically he is dreaming of getting this turbo and is nowhere near the reality of owning and running a proper FD.

So let him be **** on almost all the Rx-7 websites I see it specifically says that certain upgrades will be needed to run a single turbo so if he can not read and if he thinks it is "OK" then someone will have a cheap turbo kit and a cheap roller.

As a science experiment mister revhard try blowing through the smallest stray you can find then try blowing through a slurpee straw put you hand on the exhaust side and see what you feel.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The difference is CFM verses manifold pressure. CFM is basically velocity, in this case air. At the same given pressure, a larger turbo is moving more air (i.e. CFM is higher), thus the increase in power between a large single turbo and the stock twins. Even if a larger turbo could not make 450hp @13 PSI, 10 PSI on a large single turbo is still not the same as 10 PSI on the stock twins. Its extremely doubtful the stock ECU will be able to support that.

mrjohnnnys

iTrader: (1)

this should be interesting... keep this thread alive, i wanna see what happens with this guy, haha

desmond

another thing he could do for now is take off one of the ic couplers just after the turbo so he can't get into boost at all. it will run like crap from the giant boost leak, but he won't be able to get into boost. thats what i did on my stock twins when i was trying to pass emissions and didn't want the guy conducting the test to get into boost. is there any harm in doing this?