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going from shortblock to fully assembled engine

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Old 10-11-08, 01:25 PM
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make sure you're using silicone sealant that resists oil. dont tighten the bolts all the way, just loosely until the silicone becomes pliable, then torque to specs 10 in-lbs IIRC

Last edited by cptpain; 10-11-08 at 01:35 PM.
Old 10-11-08, 02:11 PM
  #27  
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I did, its the Good Stuff in the can, followed the directions, torqued the small ones, then motor mounts, then checked the small ones again. can anyone comment on the steel motormount issue, my old oil pan had an extra small bolt which i think was the fix.

what about the surge that i feel, i idles fine and feels fine just going slow but when i push the gas a little just to get up to speed so i can shift i get break up above 2,500 and then somewhere around 3000 the engine changes tone completely and i feel power, is it just because its still so fresh and the tune is for a stock port? I'm gessing i will be leaner before because now the engine can breath better but has the old fuel map for the stock port, correct?
Old 10-11-08, 02:13 PM
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whats the expected price for an oil pan reseal at a shop? i'd rather just have someone do it when i'm at work monday, i'll put around until then and keep oil ready to put in the car. and it shouldnt leak as back when its running right? as all there will be less oil in the pan.

that way if it leaks again right away i can take it to the shop and say they didnt do a good job

and here it is sorry for the poor pics though








Last edited by TwinCharged RX7; 10-11-08 at 02:29 PM.
Old 10-11-08, 06:27 PM
  #29  
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just got back from a drive, trying to figure out whats wrong with the rpms below 3000. if i was comparing it to a piston engine, its like below 3000 rpm half of the cylinders don't fire, and then at 3000 they all kick in. below 3000 i have no power, i can floor it in second at 2000 rpm nothing happens until it creeps up to 3000. what could this be? the streetport should be more power there if anything, most likely a little leaner than before but more flow. i guess the timing could be off, any ideas?
Old 10-11-08, 06:35 PM
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I think the car is gonna run like *** until u get it tuned, u should maybe try a getting a map similiar to your setup, break the motor in, then get it fine tuned.
Old 10-11-08, 06:46 PM
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yeah i think thats what i'm going to have to try first, I've got the PF Supercar TEC-3 GT ignition system setup, so i'd really like to have them do it. but thats like a 6 hour drive haha, maybe Ray will revise my current map on the stock engine to work for a street port, it wouldnt be perfect, but it'd make me feel more comfortable for the break in.
Old 10-12-08, 12:43 PM
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I was looking around the engine bay and saw that this wire is not connected to anything, Its in the vacinity of the other plugs that go to the UIM, but i can't find where to plug it in. the rats nest is gone and i have single turbo so maybe it just was never connected? can someone check to see where this goes please.




Old 10-12-08, 01:04 PM
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dont think thats a factory plug. is it part of the wiring harness? where does it lead from?
Old 10-13-08, 01:03 AM
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it comes from the passenger side grommet, i have a spot left open on the UIM but this does not fit it.
Old 10-13-08, 01:38 AM
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trace the wire all the way back through the firewall (or wherever it goes) to find out wtf it is. its not a factory component, must be something a previous owner had installed
Old 10-17-08, 06:32 AM
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Ok, well i've got a wideband on the way to help with tuning.

I'm in the middle of resealing the oil pan. I noticed that the motor mount bolts are pretty messed up from being forced through the sub-frame, can i replace these at any hardware store, if so how do they come apart?

Also, I have 2 steel motor mounts, can anyone post a pic of the stock aluminum one that has a nub on it to put pressure on the oil pan? and is it the driverside?
Old 10-17-08, 07:25 PM
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Does anyone have the specs on the motor mount bolts? the ones that actually go through the subframe.
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