going from shortblock to fully assembled engine
make sure you're using silicone sealant that resists oil. dont tighten the bolts all the way, just loosely until the silicone becomes pliable, then torque to specs 10 in-lbs IIRC
Last edited by cptpain; Oct 11, 2008 at 01:35 PM.
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From: Stamford, CT
I did, its the Good Stuff in the can, followed the directions, torqued the small ones, then motor mounts, then checked the small ones again. can anyone comment on the steel motormount issue, my old oil pan had an extra small bolt which i think was the fix.
what about the surge that i feel, i idles fine and feels fine just going slow but when i push the gas a little just to get up to speed so i can shift i get break up above 2,500 and then somewhere around 3000 the engine changes tone completely and i feel power, is it just because its still so fresh and the tune is for a stock port? I'm gessing i will be leaner before because now the engine can breath better but has the old fuel map for the stock port, correct?
what about the surge that i feel, i idles fine and feels fine just going slow but when i push the gas a little just to get up to speed so i can shift i get break up above 2,500 and then somewhere around 3000 the engine changes tone completely and i feel power, is it just because its still so fresh and the tune is for a stock port? I'm gessing i will be leaner before because now the engine can breath better but has the old fuel map for the stock port, correct?
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2008
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From: Stamford, CT
whats the expected price for an oil pan reseal at a shop? i'd rather just have someone do it when i'm at work monday, i'll put around until then and keep oil ready to put in the car. and it shouldnt leak as back when its running right? as all there will be less oil in the pan.
that way if it leaks again right away i can take it to the shop and say they didnt do a good job
and here it is
sorry for the poor pics though



that way if it leaks again right away i can take it to the shop and say they didnt do a good job
and here it is
sorry for the poor pics though


Last edited by TwinCharged RX7; Oct 11, 2008 at 02:29 PM.
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Joined: May 2008
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From: Stamford, CT
just got back from a drive, trying to figure out whats wrong with the rpms below 3000. if i was comparing it to a piston engine, its like below 3000 rpm half of the cylinders don't fire, and then at 3000 they all kick in. below 3000 i have no power, i can floor it in second at 2000 rpm nothing happens until it creeps up to 3000. what could this be? the streetport should be more power there if anything, most likely a little leaner than before but more flow. i guess the timing could be off, any ideas?
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Joined: May 2008
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From: Stamford, CT
yeah i think thats what i'm going to have to try first, I've got the PF Supercar TEC-3 GT ignition system setup, so i'd really like to have them do it. but thats like a 6 hour drive haha, maybe Ray will revise my current map on the stock engine to work for a street port, it wouldnt be perfect, but it'd make me feel more comfortable for the break in.
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Joined: May 2008
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From: Stamford, CT
I was looking around the engine bay and saw that this wire is not connected to anything, Its in the vacinity of the other plugs that go to the UIM, but i can't find where to plug it in. the rats nest is gone and i have single turbo so maybe it just was never connected? can someone check to see where this goes please.


trace the wire all the way back through the firewall (or wherever it goes) to find out wtf it is. its not a factory component, must be something a previous owner had installed
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2008
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From: Stamford, CT
Ok, well i've got a wideband on the way to help with tuning.
I'm in the middle of resealing the oil pan. I noticed that the motor mount bolts are pretty messed up from being forced through the sub-frame, can i replace these at any hardware store, if so how do they come apart?
Also, I have 2 steel motor mounts, can anyone post a pic of the stock aluminum one that has a nub on it to put pressure on the oil pan? and is it the driverside?
I'm in the middle of resealing the oil pan. I noticed that the motor mount bolts are pretty messed up from being forced through the sub-frame, can i replace these at any hardware store, if so how do they come apart?
Also, I have 2 steel motor mounts, can anyone post a pic of the stock aluminum one that has a nub on it to put pressure on the oil pan? and is it the driverside?
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