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Going Power FC what can I clean up?

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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 11:54 PM
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CA Going Power FC what can I clean up?

I have been reading up on using power fc and I read that I will no longer be able to use some emission components as they are not supported by pfc...
is there a write up on all components, emission related parts (air pump, EGR, etc...) and vacuum lines that can be removed when going the power fc route?.
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 08:13 AM
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You'll need a blockoff kit

FD3s RX-7 Block Off Plates

And then depending on how far you want to go, use a vacuum diagram from here

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-turbo-749702/

Also if you remove the air pump, you'll need the greddy pulleys or get an idler pulley to go in place of where the airpump was.
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 08:24 AM
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I just noticed you're in california, make sure that you don't need to pass emissions, because if you remove these things, you will not pass.

That being said, if you don't need to pass emissions, and you have removed the airpump, you will want to remove your cat.
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 10:01 AM
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I am in calif, and have a pfc. I still have all my emissions equipment (except precat) and everything works fine. I dont understand why you think the pfc wont work with emissions.
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 10:38 AM
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I'm assuming he's thinking PFC wont throw check engine codes for some of those things.
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 01:33 PM
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If you are in a smog test zone (most of us in CA), there are some things to watch for.

With the PFC you don't get the check engine light at startup, which the smog stations look for. The maps for the PFC may also run richer than the stock computer map, which could affect the sniff test for smog. They will also look for things such as the air pump.
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 09:24 PM
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Just to reiterate what Adams C said. Why do you say in your original post that you "will no longer be able to use some emission components." I've had the PFC for years running all emissions, passing Georgia emissions tests, and putting down about 330-340 RWHP. What a great car!
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jmadams74
Just to reiterate what Adams C said. Why do you say in your original post that you "will no longer be able to use some emission components." I've had the PFC for years running all emissions, passing Georgia emissions tests, and putting down about 330-340 RWHP. What a great car!

I was going thru the faq and visited a link about the pfc and it said that there was 4 cables that needed to be deleted on harness as it will not work with the pfc... Egr wire etc. Not unless they where talking about a jdm pfc unit. Also I'm wanting to remove all the emissions as possible and to have less vacuums/solenoids to worry about.
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 11:44 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by TeamITR
I was going thru the faq and visited a link about the pfc and it said that there was 4 cables that needed to be deleted on harness as it will not work with the pfc... Egr wire etc. Not unless they where talking about a jdm pfc unit. Also I'm wanting to remove all the emissions as possible and to have less vacuums/solenoids to worry about.
the PFC is for a JDM car, and all but 4 wires are the same between the US car and the JDM car. the basic difference is that the JDM cars have the electrical inputs to separate pins, headlights, defroster, blower motor, etc. the US car uses those pins for AWS and EGR, and has a magic box, called the e/l unit to take the electrical loads and go to a single pin on the ecu.

both cars retain the air pump, and air control valve, which are the main emissions parts anyways.

i would suggest its more work to pull the thing apart and remove stuff that hardly breaks than it is to just leave it alone, but imo....
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 05:48 PM
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I have a 94 in CA, with PFC. I can also just say similar things...

I have all smog equipment (except pre-cats) including EGR on the car, as I do need to pass inspection every two years.

Years ago back when I was young and not thinking things through all the way I actually bought the PFC new, then broke those 4 pins off the ECU side so I didn't have to cut the actual wiring harness of the car. This made it so I could just plug the stock ECU back in when it came time to smog without trying to hook back up the wires. If I had to do that again I would buy a patch harness and modify it to remove the wires, so you don't have to modify the car's harness or break pins off the ECU: Patch Harness (93-95 RX-7)

As others have said when you "Key on Engine Off" test lights come on for a few seconds then go off, check engine for instance. Using a PFC the Check Engine does not light up during this test and you fail the smog test.

Also after many years of doing this swap the EGR valve will stick as it will not be used for 2 years, then you plug it in and expect it to work and well due to build up / lack of use / age of the car it just doesn't and throws a check engine code (16 I think it was? ) If you car is equipped with the EGR valve that is. If you are lucky enough to have the federal car, or a federal computer then this shouldn't be an issue.

+1 to the stock PFC base map running rich.

Hope that helps!
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 12:04 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by elfking
As others have said when you "Key on Engine Off" test lights come on for a few seconds then go off, check engine for instance. Using a PFC the Check Engine does not light up during this test and you fail the smog test.
the FD ecu's actually don't have a check engine light output at all, they have an output to the diagnostic plug, but it doesn't drive a bulb, so that wire T's off and goes into the e/l unit and then that drives a light bulb. nobody knows how.

the JDM cars do not have a check engine light, and in its place is the exhaust overheat light, pin 1v
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