Hello ppl.

Which of the followin gauges shall i include, which one shall i exclude?

I can put only 3 out of 4 gauges

Boost,Oil press,fuel press, exhaust temp.

Water and oil temps i will monitor them from Defi link display.

 

I just got a water temp, boost, fuel pressure, and oil pressure. I would leave out the exhaust temp!

 

out of the ones listed i think you could leave out EGT and be okay. I think i would at least.

 

leave the exhaust gauge out. it would be the least of your worries. also you have a light that tells you when your exhaust is overheated... though ive never seen one go off.

 

You could get yourself a couple of SPA gauges. These allow you to monitor two things with the one gauge.

I have mine looking at oil temp/press. and inlet and EGT temps.

Dan

 

I wouldnt worry about the EGT.

 

Apex, it all depends on the level of tuning that you are going to.

Dan

 

why can't you put all of them on?

 

vel525 i cannot put all of them because i want to put 2 of them on center dash (A/C relocation kit) and one on the A pillar. I tried 2 on there and i cannot see anything when i turn right.(RHD car)

 

You could probably throw the 4th on the steering column. But if not i would agree with everyone else, you wont need the EGT as much as the others. But then again it all depends on your level of tuning.

 

I'm curious as to why you all recommend omitting the EGT?

I have it on good authority, from a couple very reputable rotary specialists, that it is money well spent.

My car is a DD, at least for a year or 2. I recently removed the boost gauge and A/F gauge Installed EGT and Fuel Pressure, and Power FC.

My understanding is PFC has a lot of functions described above. Detecting a problem in the fuel system early, and accurately can prevent having to get a new engine. EGT seems to be accurate and reliable. The stock gauge is crap. By the time it tells you of Overheat, your done. EGT can provide early detection (as long as you don't have exhauste leak).

Thoughts?

 

FD Newb i agree on what you said for EGT but the best way to prevent detonation is to install a wideband A/F meter

That's what i plan to do

 

Sorry, should have clarified. For some reason, I don't believe Wideband would have worked with my setup..perhaps because of the PFC?

I kept EGT over other commonly seen gauges (I.E. Boost, A/F,) based on a cost/benefit analysis and my application.

 

A EGT gauge shouldn't be overlooked. It is a very good indication of actual temperatures inside the engine, not what your oil and water is showing.

 

Most tuners go by either EGT or A/F's, some by both.

It all comes back to the level of tuning that you intend to arrive at.

Dan

 

a while back there was a similar thread and everyone said the A/F ratio guages wern't worth it.

 

They aren't worth it if you're just grabbing one off the shelf and hooking it up without a wideband setup.

 

racer1 since you have a right hand drive car, why not buy a gauge pod that mounts to the top of the steering column? They're designed to replace the top piece of plastic trim and fit perfectly on rhd cars. Those of us with lhd cars have to mess with the pod a bit to make it work. The gauge ends up blocking part of the tach that the needle never ends up at so it usually works nicely.

As for them nice affordable a/f ratio gauges, if you buy one that uses the stock oxygen sensor basically all it will tell you is the voltage of the stock oxygen sensor which most of the time is completely worthless. The ECU only looks at that data when it is in closed loop mode, which for a typical speed density based system using a narrow band o2 sensor is maybe at 20% engine load or less. The rest of the time the ECU ignores the data because the sensor basically spits out gibberish. So, most of the time what you're looking at on one of these types of gauges is gibberish, and there's no real way to tell if the ECU is running in closed or open loop mode and whether or not the sensor is providing real data or just nonsense.

AEM just came out with a wideband UEGO controller that uses its own wideband o2 sensor and the controller is built into a gauge. So that way you get a wideband o2 that has an output for use with programmable ECUs, and an a/f ratio gauge that actually gives you real data all the time.