Here's a quick webpage I made to show some of the improvements Garfinkle has incorporated to the full non sequential modification of the factory twins. It has been dubbed "rich mans non seq" due to the extra costs for machine work.

I expect to see full boost sooner then with the standard full non seq. I chose this option for my twins because I had cracks around the pre-spool port and had to spend money anyway for replacements. This seemed like a better option as I got more for my money.

Now, enough of my rambling. Here's the link with before and after pictures and a few notes on each. Enjoy.

http://www.blackgto.com/RX7/turbos/garfinkle.htm



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Thats kinda neat, let us know how it goes..

 

Hey where did u send your parts out for machine work done to it? Also where can I find that link that goes the full non seg mod?
Thanks
Khris

 

Here's instructions for the full non sequential mod.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ov_nonseq.html

I shipped my twins to Garfinkle himself. He is a member here, he uses "Garco Motorworks" as his screen name.

 

how much does he charge for the wastegate door mod?

 

ive done this twice as well... each time not having noticed any quicker spool..
not sure if this was the cause but they didnt last too long.. was only runnin 13psi on them.. im on my third set...
only benefit gained imho is the loss of boost creep..

 

You'll have to ask Garfinkle himself for a wastegate door price. I don't set his prices, he does.

 

Garfinkle helped me with the same mod a couple of years back

 

Finally got it all back together and went to the dyno for some tuning. Final numbers wee 310rwhp and 280 ftlb tq at 12 psi. AFR was consertive at 10.8:1

We saw full 12 psi boost by 3800 rpm and it stayed flat 12 psi all the way to 6850 rpm before it started dropping off.

This is a stock engine with full 3" exhaust (no cat), ebay open element air filters, full non-sequential Garfinkle style, ebay intercooler, Apexi PFC and a MBC.

 

Not too shabby. What kind of numbers do regular full nonsequential setups put down at 12psi? Kind of seems like a lot of work for little payoff. You said your boost was dropping off at around 7k? Maybe your peak power would be a tad higher if your boost held to redline. Your AFR does seem really conservative.

So what is the verdict? Is the spool any better? Was it worth it? Seems like others claim to get full boost by 3.8k with full nonseq.

BTW, your manifold and piping is damn sexy.

 

How do you like it on the street ? Is the car responsive,and does it pull hard ?

 

I don't have data on other full non-sequential setups. I've only had my FD 3 months and am still new to all of this. I did the basics IMO at the best price possible and am very satisifed with the results.

I am sure my boost dropping off by 7k is a weakness of the stock turbos, not the NS conversion.

Is 3800 good for NS engines? I don't know for sure, I have nothing to compare it to. When my engine was totally un-touched I only made 4 psi boost. Instead of correcting the problem I just ripped it ALL off and did what I wanted to make it very simple.

Thanks for the comment on the piping powdercoating. RotaryResurrection, a member of this group did the work for a VERY GOOD PRICE. Here's his thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=670216


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Alas, it was raining ALL DAY so I did not get a chance to get into it at all. On the dyno it was a leashed beast spitting fire from the tailpipe, melting my rear bumper cover alot (you can tell I'm a rotary newb now).

 

I know it isnt stock turbo's but here is the dyno sheet of my full non seq knight sports RF420's on a stock engine at 0.9 bar


incase you were interested o/c

 

^^^^ You've got more then a Knight Sport turbo to make those numbers!

 

433.8*.85 = 368.73
FWHP*(-15% correction for drivetrain loss) ~ RWHP

~360RWHP doesn't sound all that unreasonable for upgraded twins.

 

The power started to level out at 6.5k there wasnt any point trying to run more boost so next step would be to get her ported

 

I read it as 433 hp at the wheels. A DynaPack is a chassis dyno, not an engine dyno.

 

^ Read the sheets, near the top, where they say, "Fly Wheel Torque" and "Fly Wheel Power." I doubt he strapped his engine to an engine dyno, so it's probably using a torque measurement at the hubs, along with gearing and other drivetrain information, to calculate flywheel HP.

 

310 is a ballpark number for your bolt ons. Remember parallel turbos wont make more power, just a smoother curve. I think with some tweaks and tune time you could get as high as 350whp pretty easily. What are your AFR's?

 

here is the other half of the dyno sheet

This is on a stock block so as soon as i get it ported i'll be whopping up the boost, im assured the RF420's are good for up to 1.4 bar safely so im pretty sure i can get up to 400 RWHP on em

list of mods is, apexi GT FMIC, apexi intake, apexi power fc mapped by WGT, 850 primary + secondary injectors ( duty cycle is no more than 74.5%) FSE RR FPR, walbro pump NGK 11's plugs and of course the KS RF420's
im probably forgetting something else, if i remember i'll pop it up

cheers

-John

 

I never said the NS turbos would make more power, I am just posing my findings. I don't see 350whp even running it lean unless you are going for all out dyno numbers. My AFR was 10.8:1 and my injector duty cycle was 86%. That's the most me and my tuner felt comfortable with for a street ride.

 

10.8 is rich rich rich

 

Yes, I agree if you are talking piston engines. Rotarys need the extra fuel to live.

 

Hard to say IMO without pre-turbo EGT's, a reliable knock sensor, and a datalogit.