Garfinkle and I are stumped...(PFC problem)
Nothing electrical besides wiring the boost gauge, ground wire from neg. terminal, bypassing FPR. That's it. I don't have a clue as to what it could be.
Jack
Oh and Stephen I need a ride in your car when I get the PFC working...hehe
Jack
Oh and Stephen I need a ride in your car when I get the PFC working...hehe
My second shot--you should award a prize to whoever gets it...
I am pulling this completely out of my ***, but have you examined the harness ends closely? Maybe one of the pins doesn't make contact with the PFC pins? The stock ECU might work because the pins are slightly wider on it? I know my harness connectors are beat to hell.
I am pulling this completely out of my ***, but have you examined the harness ends closely? Maybe one of the pins doesn't make contact with the PFC pins? The stock ECU might work because the pins are slightly wider on it? I know my harness connectors are beat to hell.
It could be the wiring harness. What is the build date of the car? I have heard of very early cars not working due to the wiring harness. It will work fine with the stock ECU though.
Ok fellas, NO the problem isn't solved yet. I'm about to go with a Pettit Computer because it works on the stock ECU box and the stock ECU connections, and the Pettit Unlimited is simply a chip inside the box. Ok anyways, I've been hunting around inside my engine bay and the passenger footwell trying to find out some more information for you guys and maybe you can help me figure this problem out. I hooked it up to get the sensor/sw numbers and here is what I came up with...
PIM: 2.60v STR: 0 HWL: /
VTA1: 0.57v A/C: 0 FPD: 0
VTA2: 1.31v PWS: 0 FPR: 0
VMOP: 1.15v NTR: / APR: 0
WTRT: 1.54v CLT: 0 PAC: /
AIRT: 1.67v STP: 0 CCN: /
FUEL: 3.2v CAT: / TCN: 0
O2s: 0.01-0.03V ELD: 0 PRC: 0
(above...0=empty circle, / = full circle on commander)
Ok...more symptoms
1) After cranking for a few seconds, after I let off the key and just let sit in "on" position there is a buzzing sound coming from underneath the UIM
2) I also heard a buzzing sound from the wastegate solenoid connector, I unplugged and sound stopped. However, the sound coming from underneath the UIM was still present
3) I put on my old coil harness (as the new one had no ground and this might be a possibility) and still no go. does the same thing.
4) After cranking I had this on the commander screen...it displayed these numbers
INJ D - 5.1%
Igt L - 7 deg
Igt T - 1 deg
Boost - 40mmhg
5) After letting off the Injector Duties will go to 15.1% and some other odd numbers below that, it usually stops on 5.1% though.
Ok, there is some information that might could help you guys to help me. Please help me fix this so I can have the Power FC and not have to go with a Pettit Computer. I've heard so many good things about the Power FC (obviously b/c I've got one) and I really don't want to go with anything else as I've got the thing already here. Oh, and Please don't tell me to put this thread in another section b/c I've been in the other ones with this problem. Please help me guys, the ideas you've given me above have been good ones, I just need some more to run across the problem. Oh, and the build date of the car was 1992 as stated on the driver side door sill sticker. Sorry for the long post. Please help me fellas...I am at 3,000 miles and still running 5lbs of boost, I need to see the LIGHT!!
Thanks
Jack
PIM: 2.60v STR: 0 HWL: /
VTA1: 0.57v A/C: 0 FPD: 0
VTA2: 1.31v PWS: 0 FPR: 0
VMOP: 1.15v NTR: / APR: 0
WTRT: 1.54v CLT: 0 PAC: /
AIRT: 1.67v STP: 0 CCN: /
FUEL: 3.2v CAT: / TCN: 0
O2s: 0.01-0.03V ELD: 0 PRC: 0
(above...0=empty circle, / = full circle on commander)
Ok...more symptoms
1) After cranking for a few seconds, after I let off the key and just let sit in "on" position there is a buzzing sound coming from underneath the UIM
2) I also heard a buzzing sound from the wastegate solenoid connector, I unplugged and sound stopped. However, the sound coming from underneath the UIM was still present
3) I put on my old coil harness (as the new one had no ground and this might be a possibility) and still no go. does the same thing.
4) After cranking I had this on the commander screen...it displayed these numbers
INJ D - 5.1%
Igt L - 7 deg
Igt T - 1 deg
Boost - 40mmhg
5) After letting off the Injector Duties will go to 15.1% and some other odd numbers below that, it usually stops on 5.1% though.
Ok, there is some information that might could help you guys to help me. Please help me fix this so I can have the Power FC and not have to go with a Pettit Computer. I've heard so many good things about the Power FC (obviously b/c I've got one) and I really don't want to go with anything else as I've got the thing already here. Oh, and Please don't tell me to put this thread in another section b/c I've been in the other ones with this problem. Please help me guys, the ideas you've given me above have been good ones, I just need some more to run across the problem. Oh, and the build date of the car was 1992 as stated on the driver side door sill sticker. Sorry for the long post. Please help me fellas...I am at 3,000 miles and still running 5lbs of boost, I need to see the LIGHT!!
ThanksJack
The voltages look about right. I'll check how the switches are on mine and let you know.
1. The buzzing is normal with the PFC. Its from the Idle Control Motor (black thing and silver deal with white plug hanging off the back of the upper intake).
2. Never heard any buzzing from other stuff.
3. What about spark at the plug. Is it a strong spark especially from leading ignition.
4. Those numbers look normal.
5. Normal. Do you know for sure that the motor is getting fuel? (fouled plugs, removed UIM and saw fuel spalsh up from lower intake, removed primary injectors and cranked while spraying fuel into a bottle, etc.)
Jack
1. The buzzing is normal with the PFC. Its from the Idle Control Motor (black thing and silver deal with white plug hanging off the back of the upper intake).
2. Never heard any buzzing from other stuff.
3. What about spark at the plug. Is it a strong spark especially from leading ignition.
4. Those numbers look normal.
5. Normal. Do you know for sure that the motor is getting fuel? (fouled plugs, removed UIM and saw fuel spalsh up from lower intake, removed primary injectors and cranked while spraying fuel into a bottle, etc.)
Jack
Check all your ground wires including the main on at teh battery. When any of your main engine grounds get loose or dont make good contact it cause cause all kind of wierd issues. That goes for the grd at the battery terminal as well.
When you bypassed the fuel pressure solenoid did you unplug the solenoid?
STEPHEN
When you bypassed the fuel pressure solenoid did you unplug the solenoid?
STEPHEN
Last edited by SPOautos; Jun 18, 2003 at 10:47 AM.
Thanks guys, I've checked most of the grounds in there. It isn't getting alot of fuel while cranking and no spark until I let off the cranking to "discharge" the coils I guess. He didn't unplug the solenoid for the FPR he left it hooked up so the computer wouldn't throw a code. I'm about to look into buying a Pettit Computer...guys I have one of the best computers out there...please help me get this thing working
Jack
Jack
Did you happen to pull the front bumper off for any reason? There are grounds up there that are needed for the ignition or other electricals on the motor. Our cars are crazy on the grounds, too man issues to every master IMHO.
I chased ignition problems forever on my car till I got it right, all I did different was torque the plugs and unplug/plug the coil and HKS ignition amp connectors a few dozen times ... good luck to you guys, keep trying!
I chased ignition problems forever on my car till I got it right, all I did different was torque the plugs and unplug/plug the coil and HKS ignition amp connectors a few dozen times ... good luck to you guys, keep trying!
When you crank the car do you get an rpm signal on the commander, or does it just stay at 0? I'm asking this because I seem to be having the same problem with my car, only diff is I plugged my stock ECU in, and it still didn't start though.
I just reread this thread (again) have you tried another ignition switch or temp. bypassed it maybe its only making a partial connection and that is why it only works when you let off the key. I think the pfc is more sensitve to bad elec. signals than the stock ecu.
Did you try the dielectric grease and the paper shim ? Still not working ,go back to Garfinkles and put in a PFS PMS so you can run some boost . Do not give up you all will find the problem .
Originally posted by RX794
When you crank the car do you get an rpm signal on the commander, or does it just stay at 0? I'm asking this because I seem to be having the same problem with my car, only diff is I plugged my stock ECU in, and it still didn't start though.
When you crank the car do you get an rpm signal on the commander, or does it just stay at 0? I'm asking this because I seem to be having the same problem with my car, only diff is I plugged my stock ECU in, and it still didn't start though.
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