arghx

iTrader: (3)

So my '95 I picked up back in March has about 53K miles on it and from what I can tell, the door panels, door locks, etc have never been removed or serviced. The driver side door handle is getting more difficult to open but it still works. I decided I want to replace the door handle with a new OEM assembly. Ray Crowe had the assembly for $215 assuming I reuse the lock cylinder, which I plan to do.

I am VERY cautious about this interior though. Nothing door related is broken and there are very few interior rattles. So I want to be very cautious and not touch or remove anything I don't have to. Help me understand what I need to do to get this replaced and not break anything.



Do I really need to take the door panel off? Can I pop off #7 "inner garnish" remove the two nuts and disconnect everything else? Below is the new assembly I received:



Are the electrical connector and actuator rod accessible without panel removal? How is the lock cylinder replaced? Do I just remove it with a flat head screw driver, and connect that plastic long thing labeled "Connect to lock cylinder?" in my diagram?

Thanks for the help. On high volume & less delicate cars like my old Corolla you can just kind of get in there no problem and figure it out without any consequence, or get replacement parts at any store, but the FD is different.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

If you are going to remove the door panel, you should get one of those specialty prying tools to loosen the snapped in panel holders.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

First off, you can get door handles from RHDJapan.com for $80 or so. They do not have the wiring and electronics that yours does, but that can all be simply swapped over, the wiring is usually fine.

I have swapped a number of door handles with just removing the inside cover - undo the 2 10mm nuts, pull the handle out, then disconnect/swap everything with the handle partially attached to the car.

If you want to swap in the new wiring that will require pulling the door panel. But, you typically don't need to unless it's really beat to hell or something. That wire pack is for the key cylinder sensor that detects when you turn they key in the lock and the keyhole light.

It can be a little tricky swapping the wiring over with the handle still attached to the car, you may want to make a little tray or bring a stool up or something to set it on.

That said, pulling the door panel isn't all that bad, especially the driver's side. Remove the cover opposite the door handle and the triangle in the front corner of the window. Remove the plastic cover in the door pull cup hiding the screw, remove that screw and pop out the door pull cup. Remove the screws around the perimeter of the panel, check ALL the way around to make sure you got them all, I think some early 93s had an extra screw. Pop the pop fasteners all around then pull up on the panel to release it from the top. Then, unplug the power window switch and mirror switch and it's free.

The only real trick with putting it back in is the wiring to the mirror switch likes to get pinched between the speaker box and the panel, I usually lay under the door so I can look up between the door panel and the door and make sure that harness is going where it should be when I swing the panel down and start popping the pop fasteners into place.

Also, if you have issues with the door cylinder, like a missing flap cover or it's gummed up or sloppy, a locksmith can easily fix that for you.

Dale

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the advice

knotsonice

iTrader: (2)

You can replace the handle with an Aluminum one. Adkins rotary has them. I put them on mine after the third handle broke. 93-95 Rx7 Aluminum Black Door Handle Set (ARE8501) $135 for a set.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

The aluminum handle is nice but nothing beats a new factory handle. Many times the linkage is worn and sloppy, this is what really causes problems, not the plastic handle itself.

Also, simply lubricating the handle once a year goes a very long way.

Dale

arghx

iTrader: (3)

For lubricating, do you remove the handle from the vehicle completely?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

You can actually just pop off the interior cover and get a spray can of white lithium grease with a straw on the spray tip. There's a hole in the door that you can go through and hit the linkage with.

Give a few sprays, work the handle a few times, replace the cover.

Dale

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

The only thing I can think of is be careful with the actuator rods. You've probably figured out that you don't want to force anything. I've got old fat fingers and inclined to do that sometimes.
And don't over-tighten the 10mm nuts on the assembly (#8). The studs will strip in the pot-metal.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I searched the archives and didn't see any thread with this level of detail about door handle replacement, correct me if I'm wrong.

Therefore I nominate my own thread for archive/FAQ status.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

So I pulled off the black plastic trim piece, #7 "inner garnish" above probably for the first time since the car was built. Half the rubber insulation/sound deadening dissolved. So now I have panel gap between the trim and the door, and the spring clips aren't looking so good either. It will probably start rattling. I ordered a new set of black trim pieces for both driver and passenger side. They were $27.44 each from Ray Crowe.

I sprayed white lithium grease into the current door handle and worked it a bit. The handle moves better now. I'm going to keep the new door assembly on the shelf for now. Who knows what else will break if I pull that panel off.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I will say that removing the driver's door panel is probably the least "invasive" of the interior parts to remove. There's not as many things that can potentially break.

Now, removing the AC/radio surround, that's a whole 'nuther matter .

Dale

earlqhan

iTrader: (5)

Except the handle lol.

SA3R

The electrics for the wires that run into the key barrel on the back of the key barrel (two light gauge wires) are there for the purpose of illuminating the key hole in the dark- you walk up to the car in the dark, lift the door handle once, and the key barrel "should" illuminate so you can put the key in without scratching the paint.

In practice these key hole lights rarely work due to the age of the cars and corrosion. BUT if you ever need the weird grain of rice bulb or any parts, the 1995 era Ford Probe uses exactly the same key hole lighting system and can be found and swapped into the FD because I've done it once.

I also recommend removing the exterior door handle and lubing it once a year to prevent issues. The design of the cams and linkages inside the handle are such that at rest, the handle cams/linkages are resting "over center" leverage if that makes sense- things require initial movement to bring the cams and linkages to neutral center and then they begin opening the door past that point.
Imagine a kids bicycle. Imagine the pedal is at its lowest point towards the ground. Now imagine you have no choice but to begin pedalling from that point "or else". Its going to start off straining things more than if you started pedalling with the pedal at the top of the stroke. That's the FD's internal door handle workings.

From an engineering point of view, having linkages resting too far over center puts great strain on them initially, which is why things need lube to live.