FYI: Air pump removal is simple
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
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FYI: Air pump removal is simple
for future search fodder, if anyone is concerned about removing the air pump on an FD don't be, it is the easiest thing to do on an FD short of changing the shift ****.
2 bolts (on of which is the tension bolt) hold the sucker on. remove and it is removable. When re-installing have a ratchet on the tension bolt pull up on the tube coming from the engine with your left hand (pretty good bit of strength but nothing that bad) and crank on the bolt. It helps if you have the bolt tightened enough so 1 crank on the ratched will sufficiently hold the air pump.
There you have it. I was concerned about it as I hate slipping belts, but this is simple.
2 bolts (on of which is the tension bolt) hold the sucker on. remove and it is removable. When re-installing have a ratchet on the tension bolt pull up on the tube coming from the engine with your left hand (pretty good bit of strength but nothing that bad) and crank on the bolt. It helps if you have the bolt tightened enough so 1 crank on the ratched will sufficiently hold the air pump.
There you have it. I was concerned about it as I hate slipping belts, but this is simple.
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#9
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I think Brentis posted this for the benefit of those people (who? me? ) who would rather spend 3 hours figuring out how to get the efini y-pipe past the air-pump pipes instead of just spending 10 minutes removing the airpump. Thanks Brentis .
#14
i was going to remove it... but i couldnt find the proper size belt... So, until then and bye bye air pump...
if you remove the airpump on a stock cat then it has to be gutted...
if you remove the airpump on a stock cat then it has to be gutted...
#15
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5 rib 300k(I think that is how you phrase the size) belt. If you can't find a 5 rib get a 4 rib 300k, they are the easiest to find. But, you will have to tighten the 4 rib alot more frequently due to its size.
#16
is there a proper measurement on how tight we should tightened the belt? maybe a tool to measure it? or its just straight forward, pull and tightened? sori for the dumb question...
#17
PEP BOYS WILL HAVE THE BELT YOU NEED. Took me forever to find it since I usually don't buy from Pep Boys. you can use a 300 or a 295 4 or 5 rib belt.
When you look for a belt the part number is going to be probably like this 295K4 or something. The first 3 numbers are the size 295= 29.5" and 300 = 30". The number AFTER the K is how many ribs it is, usually a 4 or 5 rib. You don't have to have pulleys to take off the air pump, just this belt. The water pump should have sufecient power to it through the 4 and 5 ribs.
I believe there is 2 hoses that need to be capped or you can block them off using block off plates which is a PITA. I haven't done this yet because I'am waiting on my daily driver car from my brother so I know I have a ride if something goes wacko when I'am doing the job.
When you look for a belt the part number is going to be probably like this 295K4 or something. The first 3 numbers are the size 295= 29.5" and 300 = 30". The number AFTER the K is how many ribs it is, usually a 4 or 5 rib. You don't have to have pulleys to take off the air pump, just this belt. The water pump should have sufecient power to it through the 4 and 5 ribs.
I believe there is 2 hoses that need to be capped or you can block them off using block off plates which is a PITA. I haven't done this yet because I'am waiting on my daily driver car from my brother so I know I have a ride if something goes wacko when I'am doing the job.
#18
Originally posted by Cihuuy
is there a proper measurement on how tight we should tightened the belt? maybe a tool to measure it? or its just straight forward, pull and tightened? sori for the dumb question...
is there a proper measurement on how tight we should tightened the belt? maybe a tool to measure it? or its just straight forward, pull and tightened? sori for the dumb question...
#19
2 questions?
Does anyone have a pic of the block off plate or the caps needed? Do you need both? I just want to be prepared. I hate jacking the car up then fine out I don't have everything then have to drive an hour to the parts store. Then they never have the freakin part I need anyway.
Does the air pump put air into just the 2nd cat? If so why does everone thing it'll plug it up if its not gutted? The cat near the turbo doesn't have air injection and it doesn't plug up. Well not often anyway.
Does the air pump put air into just the 2nd cat? If so why does everone thing it'll plug it up if its not gutted? The cat near the turbo doesn't have air injection and it doesn't plug up. Well not often anyway.
#20
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I used rubber plugs. I forgot the exact size but just measure the diameter of the hard pipe being plugged and go to home depot for the plugs. Dont' get any that fit "just right". Get them a little larger in diameter than you need so that the plug doesn't get lost in the pipe or the intake. It is real easy and there is no need for block off plates. I didn't encounter any problems and the engine bay looks a lot less cramped. I can actually see my turbos. I have heard of idling problems but I didn't experience any that I noticed. It might affect the stock ECU, I have the PFC.
Just tighten it enough to have no more play than what street king said. Don't over do it, allow it to move a little.
Garrett
Just tighten it enough to have no more play than what street king said. Don't over do it, allow it to move a little.
Garrett
#22
Walking bowl of punch
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Not to rain on the parade, but if you remove the air pump, you will also need to replace the pre-cat with a dowpipe, and the main cat with a mid-pipe. The cats will clog if they are not getting air from the airpump.
Removing both cats is going to cause too much boost, for which the stock fuel system is not set up to handle. Especially if you have an aftermarket intake. Also, a bigger IC will compound the problem.
Therefore, you may be in other work such as boost control (e.g.- the manual Home Depot valve), and even then that might not be enough to control it properly. It may also require upgrading the injectors, and going to a standalone ECU.
Cheers,
Steve
Removing both cats is going to cause too much boost, for which the stock fuel system is not set up to handle. Especially if you have an aftermarket intake. Also, a bigger IC will compound the problem.
Therefore, you may be in other work such as boost control (e.g.- the manual Home Depot valve), and even then that might not be enough to control it properly. It may also require upgrading the injectors, and going to a standalone ECU.
Cheers,
Steve
#24
DGRR 2017 4/26-4/30, 2017
iTrader: (13)
Thanks Steve,
I have DP installed , and MP but needs to be installed..
I have AVC-R for boost.. but getting rid of it and putting Greddy dial in boost controller..
I did a search and read up on some ACV block off plate.. So, please correct me if I'm wrong (or let me know if I'm correct).. But after removing the air pump, install my greddy pulley kit, remove ACV.. all I need to do is just block it off the ACV mounting area with block off plate.. Is this correct??
I have DP installed , and MP but needs to be installed..
I have AVC-R for boost.. but getting rid of it and putting Greddy dial in boost controller..
I did a search and read up on some ACV block off plate.. So, please correct me if I'm wrong (or let me know if I'm correct).. But after removing the air pump, install my greddy pulley kit, remove ACV.. all I need to do is just block it off the ACV mounting area with block off plate.. Is this correct??
#25
Walking bowl of punch
iTrader: (2)
herblenny,
I think you will also need to add a resistor to the wiring so that you don't get an ECU error code.
There was also discussion on the email list about removal of the airpump causing the idle to go a bit lumpy, or at the least rich.
I saved a lot of posts from that discussion on my site. Should be under:
How-to --> Engine (Miscellaneous) --> Air Pump Removal
My site is:
http://www.ScuderiaCiriani.com/rx7
Cheers,
Steve
I think you will also need to add a resistor to the wiring so that you don't get an ECU error code.
There was also discussion on the email list about removal of the airpump causing the idle to go a bit lumpy, or at the least rich.
I saved a lot of posts from that discussion on my site. Should be under:
How-to --> Engine (Miscellaneous) --> Air Pump Removal
My site is:
http://www.ScuderiaCiriani.com/rx7
Cheers,
Steve