WOW...that looks like lots of hours of work. And i know that it makes the chassis stiffer but whats the problem with the stock one if you put all the bars you can find?

 

On Christmas day a 60 yearold named Jesus driving a Suburban ran a stopsign and T-boned my FD. I'm not making that crap up . The insurance company totaled it and gave me $15 but I fixed it for under $3,500 (that includes an aluminum radiator, 99 front end, dual 35 row oil coolers but not paint). It came out pretty well but it took a god awful lot of time and work. I'm just waiting to get the 20B in, paint it S2000 Silverstone Silver and get a rebuilt title for it.

 

Thats an awesome job man, good luck with the project. Maybe someday I'll have the skill and resources to do that, maybe someday.

 

I'm not really sure...I havent really been keeping track of time up until a couple weeks ago. After the engine bay is completely stripped I thiink I could have it prepped in a day. Prepping the seams is rather time consuming: start with a BIG straight blade screwdriver to remove the bulk of the seamsealer, use an angle grinder w/ a wire wheel (4-1/2") to remove paint and remaining seamsealer, cleaned the seams with a pick, and finished with a diegrinder and roloc disc's. It is definatly worth the extra time spent prepping the metal because the sheet metal on these cars is a bit** to weld.
Nothing, besides extra weight. I still plan on installing F & R strut tower braces, along with building a tunnel brace and Diff brace.
well the entire chassis flexes, mostly in the strut towers and where the upper A arms are mounted.

 

NO! They're mine, I stoled them fair and square

 

wow, that looks like a real pita! i commend you on your project.

 

let's see pictures of the welder!

What's your setup?

 

Can I ask you why you opted to just spot weld as apposed to straight mig welding it? BTW it looks great! I want to do it but I dont want to wait that long for it. I don't need it yet anyways.

 

dude, get a hobby

 

This is my hobby

 

This isn't spot welding, its seam welding, IE: approx 1" long welds spaced 1" apart, on both sides of the seam. THe manufacturer spot welds: 5/16" spot welds approx 1" apart (depending on the structure).Spot welds are done by passing high current through layered pieces of sheet metal that are pinched between the Pos and Neg electrodes. It fuses the two pieces of metal together almost instantly without the use of a filler metal. This is cost-efficent, fast, and does a fine job of holding the structure together, however it also allows the metal to flex when put under a load. Continous beads are not necessary and put a lot more heat into the metal which will warp it...which is bad . And you have to jump around, and from side to side when seam welding to keep the metal as cool as possible.

 

Hobart 175 MIG(240volt), Miller Syncrowave 180 SD Runner TIG, and the good 'ol torch

 

I figured Its good to have a hobby Dan. Besides what else can we do is this crappy weather in Iowa?

 

GET LAID!