THE Fuel Pumps Thread!
Does anything have to go inbetween the pumps? I thought I read somewhere that the metal pump caseings touching were some how shorting out and people were wrapping the pumps with a rubber or something
I've done about 10 of these setups with no issues. If something was shorting it was most likely caused by bad grounding or improper wiring. The rubber dampener under the stock pump is an attempt to reduce vibration. If crappy walbro pumps were used, it wouldn't surprise me.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,793
Likes: 646
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/some-fuel-system-ramblings-578521/
For your application, you're going to need more than a single pump.....search in the parts fs section under 'bosch,' someone is selling a drop in dual bosch pump setup. It's not cheap, but you've gotta pay to play
Don't forget the Apexi' BNR pump:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=578521
For your application, you're going to need more than a single pump.....search in the parts fs section under 'bosch,' someone is selling a drop in dual bosch pump setup. It's not cheap, but you've gotta pay to play
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=578521
For your application, you're going to need more than a single pump.....search in the parts fs section under 'bosch,' someone is selling a drop in dual bosch pump setup. It's not cheap, but you've gotta pay to play
im wondeing what each pump will support so i know how much fuel i need...
im going to need fuel for 950-1000 rwhp
im thinking twin walbro pumps....the second one on a hobbs switch...if that will be enough with new wiring from the alternator...if not maybe a BAP to help out the second one or both with the bap on a hobbs? if thats possible
im going to need fuel for 950-1000 rwhp
im thinking twin walbro pumps....the second one on a hobbs switch...if that will be enough with new wiring from the alternator...if not maybe a BAP to help out the second one or both with the bap on a hobbs? if thats possible
im wondeing what each pump will support so i know how much fuel i need...
im going to need fuel for 950-1000 rwhp
im thinking twin walbro pumps....the second one on a hobbs switch...if that will be enough with new wiring from the alternator...if not maybe a BAP to help out the second one or both with the bap on a hobbs? if thats possible
im going to need fuel for 950-1000 rwhp
im thinking twin walbro pumps....the second one on a hobbs switch...if that will be enough with new wiring from the alternator...if not maybe a BAP to help out the second one or both with the bap on a hobbs? if thats possible
For your power goals, you'll need a whim, a prayer and probably an Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump...which I'm not even sure anyone's ever run one of these on an FD.
http://rpmspeed.com/product_info.php...ts_id=23440150
Just finished installing Bosch 044 fuel pump and supporting system. Had to buy a caburator fitting and machine the outlet hole larger for the fuel pump outlet fitting. -6AN fittings all the way around except for -8AN just after the fuel filter to the fuel line spliter. The fuel lines that go to the engine are two stock fuel lines with -6AN fittings silver brazed at one end and feeding the primary and secondary rail seperately at the other.
Will find what the pump is capable of once I get AI in later this year.
Will find what the pump is capable of once I get AI in later this year.
well tahts on the high side but id rather over fuel it....a single walbro i heard wass good for 550 or so...with good wiring....so i was hoping 2 would be sufficient...and i wont do an external pump too noisy and stuff
might ahve to be like the supra guys and do 3 walbros
might ahve to be like the supra guys and do 3 walbros
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 345
Likes: 0
From: Minot, ND
on my dual walbro setup I ran two lines off of the pump out of the tank, and y'd it outside of the tank. I found it easier that way, cause with my Y in tank I had space issues. has worked great so far. 423whp @ 18psi on e85.
well tahts on the high side but id rather over fuel it....a single walbro i heard wass good for 550 or so...with good wiring....so i was hoping 2 would be sufficient...and i wont do an external pump too noisy and stuff
might ahve to be like the supra guys and do 3 walbros
might ahve to be like the supra guys and do 3 walbros
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,279
Likes: 726
From: Florence, Alabama
two pages of posts on fuel delivery and not a word on the Kenne Bell Boost A Pump...
first off let's be clear about fuel and the rotary. it is a big deal.
the rotary requires 1.3X (by weight) the air and fuel to make the same rwhp as a piston engine. so when you read about a pump is good for "500 hp" you'd best be dividing that number by 1.3. all the more reason to pay attention to the fuel system of course.
when i was designing my 600 rwhp fuel system in 2000 i read all the usual stuff... Bosch, Cosmo, Supra, Aeromotive, dual, dash 10 AQ lines, filters. it can get pretty nutso if you don't watch out, especially when it's Feb in wisconsin and the car is in parts.
amongst my web travels i bumped into the Kenne Bell site. i had known Kenne Bell as a highly regarded tech outfit going way back and i was greatly impressed with the amount of fuel tech on their site. after a thorough read i concluded that their Boost A Pump (BAP) would be the central component of my FD fuel system.
i would retain my reliable Cosmo pump and just add the BAP. i especially like the fact that the BAP worked only under boost. no huge noisy fuel pump running all the time, especially when not needed. sort of like the turbos... they run only when you need them.
that was 2000. i run 850/1600 injectors and have run them to 90% duty cycle with my cosmo/BAP setup. since i digitally log my fuel pressure i KNOW i have adequate fueling.
i run the stock Mazda filter and hardlines. Ari Yellen made 700 rwhp thru the stock lines.
two years ago i added my methanol AI system. i have subsequently removed about 25% of base fuel from my map and of course added alcohol. my duty cycle has dropped around 12 points. (knock has dropped 80% too).
last year i added an FJO injector driver convertor to run my 1600s properly.... as Peak and Hold. that dropped my duty cycle another 5 points.
MSD makes a fuel pump voltage booster too. i prefer the Kenne Bell as it includes a boost detecting solenoid that you locate in the engine compartment separate from the control module. my control module is then able to be located optimally next to my battery (passenger side rear luggage compartment and near the fuel pump. you can't do that w the MSD as it has the MAP sensor in the module and therefore must be in the eng compartment.
i have run my setup for 7 seasons. the "boost dial" , which locates in the cockpit is adj from zero to 50% boost. my system works fine at plus 20%. i have made 364 foot pounds of torque at 15.8 psi so far and am still tuning out. i expect to make 630 rwhp w my setup.
i appreciate the simplicity of my system and would do it over again.
Kenne Bell link.... read the tech stuff:
http://www.kennebell.net/accessories...boostapump.htm
hc
first off let's be clear about fuel and the rotary. it is a big deal.
the rotary requires 1.3X (by weight) the air and fuel to make the same rwhp as a piston engine. so when you read about a pump is good for "500 hp" you'd best be dividing that number by 1.3. all the more reason to pay attention to the fuel system of course.
when i was designing my 600 rwhp fuel system in 2000 i read all the usual stuff... Bosch, Cosmo, Supra, Aeromotive, dual, dash 10 AQ lines, filters. it can get pretty nutso if you don't watch out, especially when it's Feb in wisconsin and the car is in parts.
amongst my web travels i bumped into the Kenne Bell site. i had known Kenne Bell as a highly regarded tech outfit going way back and i was greatly impressed with the amount of fuel tech on their site. after a thorough read i concluded that their Boost A Pump (BAP) would be the central component of my FD fuel system.
i would retain my reliable Cosmo pump and just add the BAP. i especially like the fact that the BAP worked only under boost. no huge noisy fuel pump running all the time, especially when not needed. sort of like the turbos... they run only when you need them.
that was 2000. i run 850/1600 injectors and have run them to 90% duty cycle with my cosmo/BAP setup. since i digitally log my fuel pressure i KNOW i have adequate fueling.
i run the stock Mazda filter and hardlines. Ari Yellen made 700 rwhp thru the stock lines.
two years ago i added my methanol AI system. i have subsequently removed about 25% of base fuel from my map and of course added alcohol. my duty cycle has dropped around 12 points. (knock has dropped 80% too).
last year i added an FJO injector driver convertor to run my 1600s properly.... as Peak and Hold. that dropped my duty cycle another 5 points.
MSD makes a fuel pump voltage booster too. i prefer the Kenne Bell as it includes a boost detecting solenoid that you locate in the engine compartment separate from the control module. my control module is then able to be located optimally next to my battery (passenger side rear luggage compartment and near the fuel pump. you can't do that w the MSD as it has the MAP sensor in the module and therefore must be in the eng compartment.
i have run my setup for 7 seasons. the "boost dial" , which locates in the cockpit is adj from zero to 50% boost. my system works fine at plus 20%. i have made 364 foot pounds of torque at 15.8 psi so far and am still tuning out. i expect to make 630 rwhp w my setup.
i appreciate the simplicity of my system and would do it over again.
Kenne Bell link.... read the tech stuff:
http://www.kennebell.net/accessories...boostapump.htm
hc
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,279
Likes: 726
From: Florence, Alabama
my Imageshack account is goofed up due to changing ISPs and computers but i will post a pic or two soon.
my electronic control module (just bigger than a pack of cigarettes) is mounted on the rear wall of the pass side compartment. the battery is on the floor so it is less than 6 inches from the BAP. the control module dial is located on a tab off the battery mount. i can reach over and back, open the compartment door and easily twirl the dial. i actually never touch it...
the fuel pump primary wire travels rearward near the driver's side rocker panel. i cut it just rearward of the driver's door, and ran the BAP wires over the tunnel to connect. soldered.
my boost trigger solenoid (about 1.5 inches diameter) sits on the driver's side inner fender well and connects to one of the 3 nipples on the front side of the UIM near the throttle body.
film at eleven,
hc
my electronic control module (just bigger than a pack of cigarettes) is mounted on the rear wall of the pass side compartment. the battery is on the floor so it is less than 6 inches from the BAP. the control module dial is located on a tab off the battery mount. i can reach over and back, open the compartment door and easily twirl the dial. i actually never touch it...
the fuel pump primary wire travels rearward near the driver's side rocker panel. i cut it just rearward of the driver's door, and ran the BAP wires over the tunnel to connect. soldered.
my boost trigger solenoid (about 1.5 inches diameter) sits on the driver's side inner fender well and connects to one of the 3 nipples on the front side of the UIM near the throttle body.
film at eleven,
hc
Full Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 223
Likes: 7
From: Hong Kong
Another one back from the dead.
It sounds like 12 years on, we're still using the exact same fuel pumps. Bosch 044 and Walbro's 255lph pumps. Is there something better?
I'm looking for a modest 350hp on a EFR 7670 and ID1050X primary and secondaries. It sounds like my oem fuel system should actually be able to handle that, but what would give me a bit more margin and flexibility to expand later? This is all being controlled by an Adaptronic Plug and play ECU.
Thanks!!
It sounds like 12 years on, we're still using the exact same fuel pumps. Bosch 044 and Walbro's 255lph pumps. Is there something better?
I'm looking for a modest 350hp on a EFR 7670 and ID1050X primary and secondaries. It sounds like my oem fuel system should actually be able to handle that, but what would give me a bit more margin and flexibility to expand later? This is all being controlled by an Adaptronic Plug and play ECU.
Thanks!!
