pkwan_pharmd

need more advice...thanx in advance.

car didn't start...yes compression, yes spark, fuel...no:

after doing the f/p to ground jumpwire, I got 12 volts at the connector that attaches to the top of the tank...same as the battery directly measured. However!, NO continuity to the male leads on the tank (on the side the pump power is on...not the sensor side)...bought a new pump from rotary performance, installed it and no workie. took pump out and applied 12 volts to it and it spun happily. checked for continuity outside gas tank, on the white connector...no continuity on the pump +/- connections. took pump out, and checked the top of the fuel pump....yes continuity there. checked from the pump (-) to the outside gas tank...yes continuity there. checked the (+) side to the outside gas tank connector...NO CONTINUITY! I poked a needle end multimeter into the bottom side of the plate where the blue wire goes in....yes continuity to the fuel pump (+) terminal and the (-) one, but NOT to the outside connector (1 of the 2 connections). the same procedure on (-) black wire resulted in BEEP....yes continuity.

Conclusion is the connector past the blue wire is faulty some how....can anyone suggest any solution or further work up??!!??

Thanks! Peter

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Maybe I'm not following completely but it appears you solved the problem. The positive wire that goes to the fuel pump to the plug in the fuel pump tree is bad so you should replace it? If that's not what you're saying check your EGI fuse.

pkwan_pharmd

The thing is I can't get that little blue plug off to replace the wire...is there a trick? Is it possible that it got hot and is fused together? (actually doesn't conduct electricity though). I've used every pair of plyers I have and tried about everything....very frustrating.

Also, any suggestions where to buy the part? Dealer I suppose

Thanks ! Peter

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

You can try and buy the wiring harness connnector w/pigtail from the forum ( have somebody cut it off for you), cut that non working one off, and solder or reconnect the new connector

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

There's a release on the plug and you may need a sm screw driver to push it in and also help wedge the plug out.

You can also just buy the whole friggen assembly from somebody parting a car with a pump etc...

I'd imagine you could get just the wire with plug from malloy mazda 888 533 3400

Ring Steel

Bump.

did you get the connector off?

billyboy

Might be well past this stage going by dates, looks like the compression tab on the connector has been snapped off - a jewelers screwdriver or similar might be able to be used to pry the remnants across to release it.

If the white connector itself is bad and you can't source a replacement lid easily, a couple of mating machined pieces of nylon going through the tank lid and lengths of threaded rod (insulated by the nylon) can be a solution....used to power a second pump here.

JasonL

I've run into the same problem, anyone find out if you can replace the connector, and order a new one from mazda?

I looked in the epc and didn't find one.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Just drill a hole in the top and bypass the connector. Use a grommet and fuel safe sealant. I did this when i ran my dual pumps and heavier gauge wires. Simple and cheap. You could even take this time to rewire with heavier wires and get more out of your fuel pump