Your probelm right now is electrical, same as myne something is wrong with the wiring get that sorted before u spend pointless cash.. yeah under wheel the loom should run in that area.

 

Having a good look under there I can see that the arch linings aren't there on mine, is this the same with yours? Would seem silly not to have the linings there as standard otherwise all sorts of things could fly up into the wiring or whatever, might well be worth investigating further.

 

Yeah myne are all there but myne have wheel markings on them and some parts are brunt as my wheels are to wide for the front so im gona check there tomorrow.

 

Do you know where the ground wires for the fuel relays are?

 

According the the manuals the two main ground points for the front harness (that those relays are on are at the front on either side, one of them should be quite close to the box that has the fuel relay (speed) in it. Front left of the engine bay while you're looking at it. I would think they'd be easy enough to trace back from there.

Have uploaded an image I scanned from the manuals...

 

Cant believe i didnt notice that.. looks promising just got the torch and had a peek that whole area looks like its been fucked with and theres loose wires and an airhorn and some other fuses that arnt supposed to be there, opefuli that will source me out tomorrow..

 

Cool, sounds promising, that's my next area to check out, probably have to wait a few days to get the time though.

 

yeah for sure man check all your grounds because i heard thats a common problem in these cars, cuz my Head lights dim when i hit boost that could also be a weak ground because i have HID kit and they dim. Im excited lol lets hope it works.. hey u got pics of ur car?

 

Mine had a SplitFire grounding kit on it when I first had it, have checked out all those to make sure they're ok. Gonna have to go through all the smaller connectors too by the looks of things. Have never had any electrical problems before this and it's always pulled well with no hesitation.

I saw you post in another thread that you had pulled an error code relating to a short or bad ground? That's the odd thing here can't seem to get any codes at all. Which dash light is supposed to flash?

I've uploaded a few pics of my car to my vGarage here:

https://www.rx7club.com/vbgarage.php?do=view&id=57766

 

There is no dash light for the fault code i got, mazda gave me that code when they hooked it up to their computer, i got a short circut in a ground wire somewhere so tomorrow im gona check everysingle ground wire in the car i have another week off b4 uni starts gotta get it done...

 

I think I'll probably end up having to do the same and check all the grounds too.

 

Here's a strange one...

Just went out and tested a few more grounds and thought I'd check for error codes again just in case (nothing). Then turned the key in the ignition...on turning the ignition off you can here what I can only describe as a "twang" kind of sound from the rear. I'm guessing this is the fuel pump trying to do something? From what I can tell it shouldn't as the fuel pump relay hasn't clicked on and I haven't got the f/p gnd bridge going either. Hmmmmm... :-/

 

Thanx.. i had a play around cleaned the terminals i took my HDI kit off and now my car does boost ok after 4000 RPM but i still have the fuel problem i think my relays and resistor are stuffed.

 

Good to hear you're making some progress there, I'm going to test the connection to the PCME today to make sure the circuit that closes the fuel pump relay has continuity, am betting that this could be at least part of the problem after studying the circuit diagrams for a while. From what I can tell the fuel pump resistor and the pump itself shouldn't come into play until after the main fuel pump relay has "clicked" on which will only happen when the PCME closes the circuit from terminal 1T.

Good luck.

 

yes thats true but the Relay wont close until the car is started or during start i dont think rx7's prime they prime during start while the engine is turning over. Because my car does not prime.

 

I always used to have that click from the relays, both the EGI Relay and the Fuel Pump Relay plus the FSM states as a check that both of these should click on when the ignition is turned on...page F-174 says:

It says exactly the same thing for the fuel pump relay too...I don't get a click sound from either anymore which says to me that the circuit isn't closing there for whatever reason, be it a bad ground or short circuit. What ya reckon?

 

Same problem as my car then except only one of my relays click, the EGI relay will click but the FP relay wont but if it says it should happen then it should because thats whats gona prime the car, i know it cant be my computer because i changed it with another stock one, so the only thing it can be is a faulty relay, The fault code said there was a short circut in my relay system a Ground problem but i cant find anything so im guessing the relay is stuffed. Try changing the relay

 

Same problem as my car then except only one of my relays click, the EGI relay will click but the FP relay wont but if it says it should happen then it should because thats whats gona prime the car, i know it cant be my computer because i changed it with another stock one, so the only thing it can be is a faulty relay, The fault code said there was a short circut in my relay system a Ground problem but i cant find anything so im guessing the relay is stuffed. Try changing the relay

 

I've tested both the egi and fuel pump relays by applying voltage to terminals A and B that results in a click (as expected), then tested for continuity across C and D and that seems ok too, so from what I can tell both relays are good. I suppose it won't hurt to swap them out and make sure...

 

Ok, think I might have had a bit of a break through...well, more of an idea anyway.

I've taken out the PCME and tested the voltage on the connectors that go into it. The unswitched supply from the battery is fine and shows 12v (terminal 1A on the unit), the next terminal over (1B) is a switched supply and will only do anything when the ignition is switched to on. Tested this and nothing, so my switched supply from the ignition is not getting through...ok, the switched supply has to come through the EGI Main Relay so I retested the + at the box and that has the correct voltage, but with the relay in and ignition on testing the switched supply using the data link box show's less than 1v getting through. This says to me that the EGI Main Relay is knackered and I need a new one...however I've unplugged this and tested it, it clicks when voltage is applied and has continuity when checked. Could the relay still be the cause of the trouble?

Would like some thoughts on this as the cost of a new one is a rather extortionate; £48 from the local Mazda dealer (approx. $85).

 

Well to round this thread out nicely have got the car working...

It turned out the be the main relay that was causing the problem. Even though it checked out ok when I tested it, it would seem that it wasn't any good while it was under load, so there's something to always consider, check any relay out while it's under load by putting something inline with it drawing power. Anyway, bridged the terminals where the relay normally sits and everything clicked on and the engine fired up first time perfectly.

If anything have picked up a lot of stuff from studying the wiring diagrams. Also thanks to all the people that replied and made suggestions.

Cheers.

 

Thats good to hear bro, hey do u have a multimeter? how do u check the resistor can u explain it to me step by step if u know.

 

Yeah, have a digital multimeter...to test the resistor you need to disconnect it and then set your meter to ohms to measure resistence. I set mine to 20k. First up touch the two probes from the meter together to get the internal resistance and make a note of the value, you'll need to subtract that from what you get when testing the resistor.

Then it's a simple case of touch the probes either side of the resistor (with it disconnected) and you should get a reading. Page F-109 of the FSM will describe what you need to do too, the reading you get should be between 0.57 and 0.70. If you're within that then the resistor is ok.

 

im getting a big fat 0 when i test the resistor i tried it with 2 multimeters brand new ones, so u think my resistor is shat its self? and mayb thats y im getting a constant 12V feed?

 

I think it makes sense that's what's happened. If there's continuity and no resistence that means it's letting the full voltage through and not stepping it down. I guess the question is, if the resistor is knackered would it have no continuity or would it break down and let the full voltage through?

With the resistor off the car, maybe it's worth apply 12v from the battery directly to it and test the voltage that way, would eliminate any other wiring from the car that might be causing problems. From the wiring diagrams it should get 12v straight from the ignition so wiring it to a test battery should be ok.