BlouZbee

iTrader: (7)

ok im not sure whats going on but heres the story.

i had a fuel smell only at WOT so i started to tear stuff apart, im pretty sure it was the metal check valve because it was definitely bad. at this point i had already removed the rats nest so i figured what the hell im this far i will just get the injectors serviced. pulled the rails and injectors and sent the injectors to witchhunter.

being new and learning as i go i leaked alot of fuel taking the rails out. it wouldnt stop so i put the fuel hose back on and called my cousin who knows how to work on cars. he said open the gas cap. i did, it released the rest of the pressure and it stopped leaking with the hose off. did my thing...

i thought the pressure was out and didnt realize it could build back up so when i was at dinner it started leaking again, this time into the injector hole and all over the engine, i used a turkey baster and a hose and sucked out what i could.

a week past..no fuel smell... i reinstalled the injectors, replaced EVERY o-ring in the fuel system, FPD, EVERY grommet, new diffusers for the secondarys, and new copper washers for the banjo bolt. took my time and made sure i was doing it right. BEFORE i put stuff back in i did a leak test with the rails out, no leaks no smell. did a leak test AFTER the rails were installed, no leaks no smell.

put stuff back together.... get the alt and air pump on....so i pull the belt to make sure it was on right/tight and turn the engine over a few times and i start to smell fuel. i was like WTF...stick my nose all over the engine bay and cant locate it. i look under the car and see a pool of gas and it dripping from underneath the car. it kinda looks like dripping from around the turbo control actuator. it wasnt clean fuel either.

is this just fuel i leaked? why when i turn over the engine(manually) would it leak from underneath and how?

also the secondary rail tappers down to a nipple the rests on the grommets. confirm that these DONT go all the way in flush metal to metal. i have the bolts torqued to spec.

thank you.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Wow, yes it's possible you have fuel in your combustion chambers and now it's being pushed out the exhaust and dripping down past the manifold gaskets. The question is whether the leak is occurring now or if it's from before replacing the o-rings.

I would disconnect the ignition per the compression test instructions, remove the plugs, and unflood the heck out of it. In fact, unflood it, give it an hour, unflood again. Now pressurize the fuel rail per the FSM procedure and let circulate for a couple minutes. Then unflood again and see if any more fuel comes out. If it does, you need to pull the fuel rail from the engine block and lift it up, pressurize the rail again, and see where it's leaking from.

If it doesn't leak any more, I would try a good unflood and see if it will start.

Dave

BlouZbee

iTrader: (7)

thank you for the reply.

i leak tested before installing the rails back and there was not even a drop from any of the 4 injectors. it must be from before because i could see down into the one primary holes and it was full of gas from the unplugged fuel line. i was at dinner so it could of leaked for a couple of hours. i know there was gas in there but i didnt know how much or that it could be pushed out the exhaust gasket like that.

i really dont think its a post job rail leak, my gut says its from my botched de-pressurizing . so i guess i just really really flooded the engine, correct?

anyone confirm my secondary rail statement?

BlouZbee

iTrader: (7)

so just deflood.

a guy at work said i should change the oil because it probably leaked into the pan. but hes a piston guy. what ya guys think?

this is probably a dumb question but im waiting for my UIM, TB and a couple other pipes to come back from the polisher, could i do the deflood procedure since im not actually starting the car? or wont it even turn over?

thank you.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Sure, just pull the egi relay to kill spark (might not work if you have aftermarket ignition depending on how it is set up) and crank the motor. Just make sure nothing can fall or get sucked into the motor.

artowar

iTrader: (1)

I'd say change the oil & filter too.

BlouZbee

iTrader: (7)

ok thanks, ill deflood a few times and change the plugs(had new ones for awhile just never put them in) while i wait for my parts to come back.

the oil and filter have maybe 20 miles on them ill change the oil to be safe.

can someone confirm my fuel rail statement in the first post? im pretty sure it right but i want to make sure.