Front mount or stock mount
11-15-08, 04:15 AM
#26
sounds like everyone should have this.. lol.. whats the cheapest one to get and i dont mean cheap in product. Ex. 500 the lowest for a pretty good one.... not like i will be getting it now.. i still need to get a dam i/c 1600cc inj kit and ignition
11-15-08, 05:38 AM
#27
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Well... I picked up my Aquamist 1s kit for about $500.00 here in the U.K. It was second hand and came from a friend of a friend. The unit was installed on the previous car but never used/run as the guy either ran out of money, or changed direction in his project.
I'd suggest checking out the A/I section of the forum (https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-injection-173/) if you want to go this direction. Like everywhere else on this site, there is a large amount of info in there which will help you make an informed decision on what you want to do with your car.
I believe the three "top" A/I systems floating around for the RX-7 right now are Aquamist (check Gotham Racing), FJO, and Devil's Own (may need to piece-meal this one together..).
I'd suggest checking out the A/I section of the forum (https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-injection-173/) if you want to go this direction. Like everywhere else on this site, there is a large amount of info in there which will help you make an informed decision on what you want to do with your car.
I believe the three "top" A/I systems floating around for the RX-7 right now are Aquamist (check Gotham Racing), FJO, and Devil's Own (may need to piece-meal this one together..).
Last edited by fendamonky; 11-15-08 at 05:43 AM.
11-15-08, 06:29 AM
#28
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About whats more important, cooler engine system ( water ) or charge temp.
I can only say this for otto-engines, they need a minimum temperature, so if you cool your watercoolingsystem to lets say 70°c, this wouldnt be good for the engine. But i dont know if you can say that for wankel engines too ( but i guess its the same ).
About fmic cooler:
I would say nobody here placed the same intercooler on the front or as vmic ( ok if its possible due to space ) and then check the temperatures.
I think the the best way would be the front place for the intercooler, but im also a little bit afraid about debris and small rocks, which could crack the IC, especially on the race track.
Another point has been said, the way from the turbo through the ic to the engine would be a way longer when the ic is placed at the front, but i would say you have to find a compromise what do you prefer.
I can only say this for otto-engines, they need a minimum temperature, so if you cool your watercoolingsystem to lets say 70°c, this wouldnt be good for the engine. But i dont know if you can say that for wankel engines too ( but i guess its the same ).
About fmic cooler:
I would say nobody here placed the same intercooler on the front or as vmic ( ok if its possible due to space ) and then check the temperatures.
I think the the best way would be the front place for the intercooler, but im also a little bit afraid about debris and small rocks, which could crack the IC, especially on the race track.
Another point has been said, the way from the turbo through the ic to the engine would be a way longer when the ic is placed at the front, but i would say you have to find a compromise what do you prefer.
contrary to everyone's beliefs.
11-15-08, 08:35 AM
#30
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...postcount=2528
Keep it simple.
11-15-08, 08:57 AM
#31
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^ That sucks!
I'm not sure if that's an entirely fair comparison, though, since Pluto was operating *well* outside of the normal range power/psi wise. I'd be hesitant to have my car tuned that aggressively (22psi/650hp is hella aggressive!) with reliance on any singular system (but then again, I DD mine more often then not). I should think the fact that he was pushing that to begin with would be a testament to A/I's effectiveness.
And a question from the end of that post... is Gotham no more??? I knew they got the **** robbed out of them about 6 months ago, is that what put them under? If so it's an absolute shame!!
I'm not sure if that's an entirely fair comparison, though, since Pluto was operating *well* outside of the normal range power/psi wise. I'd be hesitant to have my car tuned that aggressively (22psi/650hp is hella aggressive!) with reliance on any singular system (but then again, I DD mine more often then not). I should think the fact that he was pushing that to begin with would be a testament to A/I's effectiveness.
And a question from the end of that post... is Gotham no more??? I knew they got the **** robbed out of them about 6 months ago, is that what put them under? If so it's an absolute shame!!
11-15-08, 09:09 AM
#32
I'm not sure if that's an entirely fair comparison, though, since Pluto was operating *well* outside of the normal range power/psi wise. I'd be hesitant to have my car tuned that aggressively (22psi/650hp is hella aggressive!) with reliance on any singular system (but then again, I DD mine more often then not). I should think the fact that he was pushing that to begin with would be a testament to A/I's effectiveness.
And a question from the end of that post... is Gotham no more??? I knew they got the **** robbed out of them about 6 months ago, is that what put them under? If so it's an absolute shame!!
And a question from the end of that post... is Gotham no more??? I knew they got the **** robbed out of them about 6 months ago, is that what put them under? If so it's an absolute shame!!
Not to take this thread more OT, but yes Gotham has closed.
11-15-08, 10:04 AM
#33
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
I don't really see the correlation of AI and power to failure. All the AI system has to do is inject regardless of the power the engine is making. However, the fact is AI another system which "can" fail. IMO, the least amount of things you can count on to "keep the car safe", the better off you'll be in the long run.
I'm just not sure it's completely fair to poo-poo A/I in general because the 12A fuze blew during tuning. I can see if the pump siezed up and just stopped pumping, or the tank ran dry and had nothing to pull from, or if the nozzle got clogged and the system didn't throw out a warning. But, it looks like it was an electrical gremlin of sorts (he blew a Haltech injector fuze as well).
Granted this particular scenario is terrible, but it is one out of how many? How often do "oops, I just blew my engine" threads pop up which may have been avoided if the user had A/I? Granted water injection isn't like Gypse Tears for FI engines, but it *does* offer a level of protection you might not otherwise enjoy..
Do you see where I'm coming from?
11-15-08, 01:47 PM
#34
I just checked in on that section of the thread you quoted for a little more clarification. I'm not trying to say that I know more than you or Steve when it comes to this subject, quiet the opposite really.
I'm just not sure it's completely fair to poo-poo A/I in general because the 12A fuze blew during tuning. I can see if the pump siezed up and just stopped pumping, or the tank ran dry and had nothing to pull from, or if the nozzle got clogged and the system didn't throw out a warning. But, it looks like it was an electrical gremlin of sorts (he blew a Haltech injector fuze as well).
Granted this particular scenario is terrible, but it is one out of how many? How often do "oops, I just blew my engine" threads pop up which may have been avoided if the user had A/I? Granted water injection isn't like Gypse Tears for FI engines, but it *does* offer a level of protection you might not otherwise enjoy..
Rarely have any of the incidents on this forum where engines have blown have definitive evidence to support it would have been saved by AI.
Do you see where I'm coming from?
I'm just not sure it's completely fair to poo-poo A/I in general because the 12A fuze blew during tuning. I can see if the pump siezed up and just stopped pumping, or the tank ran dry and had nothing to pull from, or if the nozzle got clogged and the system didn't throw out a warning. But, it looks like it was an electrical gremlin of sorts (he blew a Haltech injector fuze as well).
Granted this particular scenario is terrible, but it is one out of how many? How often do "oops, I just blew my engine" threads pop up which may have been avoided if the user had A/I? Granted water injection isn't like Gypse Tears for FI engines, but it *does* offer a level of protection you might not otherwise enjoy..
Rarely have any of the incidents on this forum where engines have blown have definitive evidence to support it would have been saved by AI.
Do you see where I'm coming from?
AI has it's place, no doubt. However, in most cases people are using it as a band aid rather than fixing the real problem. i.e. if their charge temps are too high, they are either:
a) pushing the turbo(s) too much and need a more effective turbo setup for their needs
b) have an ineffective intercooler setup
Adding AI to address charge temps is the wrong solution.
While it can help address pre-ignition problems as well, that once again can be and should be addressed with the fuel and ignition system. Quite frankly, for the people who build up their cars so much that they need super high octane all the time are just asking for problems.
People have been running high HP RX7 for years before AI was thought about on street cars. IMO, it's another point that can (and we have seen) fail. People remove the AST and other parts on this car because they are a failure point. It doesn't make sense to me to "add" a failure point and call it a good idea.
Last edited by Mahjik; 11-15-08 at 01:50 PM.
11-15-08, 03:09 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
While it can help address pre-ignition problems as well, that once again can be and should be addressed with the fuel and ignition system. Quite frankly, for the people who build up their cars so much that they need super high octane all the time are just asking for problems.
Last edited by Mahjik; 11-16-08 at 01:01 PM.
11-15-08, 05:19 PM
#36
i went front mount but routed the pipes with very few bends and very short piping, its also not an overly inflated core, just the right size for my needs. Also i didnt have to move my radiator. I did on the other hand have to cut out a cross bar, but it isnt majorly structural. So i think in my case i made a good compromise between both.
I dont like a front mounts proximity to road debris. While i dont think any major damage can easily come from it, bent fins do look a bit tacky.
The stock look is appealing with a SMIC, but i prefer having as many things out of the engine bay as possible. because i end up working on the car ALOT.
I dont have any problems with my fluidyne radiator keeping the temps under control in this TX heat.
I didnt want to fabricate a duct for a SMIC, though i'm certain i could have, at the time i was in a hurry and it was another hassle
SMIC are worthless without a duct.
I dont like a front mounts proximity to road debris. While i dont think any major damage can easily come from it, bent fins do look a bit tacky.
The stock look is appealing with a SMIC, but i prefer having as many things out of the engine bay as possible. because i end up working on the car ALOT.
I dont have any problems with my fluidyne radiator keeping the temps under control in this TX heat.
I didnt want to fabricate a duct for a SMIC, though i'm certain i could have, at the time i was in a hurry and it was another hassle
SMIC are worthless without a duct.
11-15-08, 05:53 PM
#37
I am running the greddy fmic 2row without temp issues. Even sitting in traffic for a bit it does not get even close to too hot. My car stays sub 95C sitting in traffic on a hot 100deg oklahoma day. I did duct mine well allowing the radiator to recieve air from through the ic, as well as fresh air from the front of the car. It really was not hard to do. I completely agree that really either setup done correctly and completely will yeild good results.
11-15-08, 09:46 PM
#38
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
I ran an M2 Large (which PFS and Pettit both copied btw) for many years with various iterations of BNRs and was pretty damn happy, made great power with it as the you can see from my old dyno link in my sig.
With the 500R I have a Blitz FMIC and love it.....easy install, looks great, coolant temps are nice and low. It sits further back than the Greddy, so allows more air to get into the engine bay and the rad.
With the 500R I have a Blitz FMIC and love it.....easy install, looks great, coolant temps are nice and low. It sits further back than the Greddy, so allows more air to get into the engine bay and the rad.
11-15-08, 10:47 PM
#39
I ran an M2 Large (which PFS and Pettit both copied btw) for many years with various iterations of BNRs and was pretty damn happy, made great power with it as the you can see from my old dyno link in my sig.
With the 500R I have a Blitz FMIC and love it.....easy install, looks great, coolant temps are nice and low. It sits further back than the Greddy, so allows more air to get into the engine bay and the rad.
With the 500R I have a Blitz FMIC and love it.....easy install, looks great, coolant temps are nice and low. It sits further back than the Greddy, so allows more air to get into the engine bay and the rad.
thewird
11-16-08, 04:09 AM
#40
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
I agree whole-heartedly and am a little dissapointed with the GReddy SMIC because the "duct" included with the kit is laughable at best.
If I had known more about the car, and foreseen where I would eventually go with mine, when I bought her (and the smic) I would have probably gone ahead and purchased a kit with better ducting, or at lease purchased an effective duct to hook up with the GReddy unit. Now it's a bit late in the game for that one, and I already have money set aside to get a v-mount in (I'll post pics of the brit kit when it's in/getting installed).
Last edited by fendamonky; 11-16-08 at 04:14 AM.
11-24-08, 03:10 PM
#43
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FD3S2005- The Pettit Cool Charge III is the way to go as far as stock mount. Good choice there. Most other companies that made these are now defunct, or more expensive. If you are even thinking about other modifications I would definitely recommend an aftermarket radiator as well. You can usually find a Fluidyne or Koyo on here, pretty reasonably. The stock rad is a bit small for this motor, especially modified, and prone to cracking. Also swap out your AST (air separation tank) . Same plastic as the stock rad end tanks, and prone to cracking. This will take care of your intake temps at boost and your engine cooling. You should move your battery from the engine bay to the hatch area or behind the passenger seat in the storage compartment. This will create some more room under the hood for you.
11-24-08, 03:58 PM
#45
FD3S2005- The Pettit Cool Charge III is the way to go as far as stock mount. Good choice there. Most other companies that made these are now defunct, or more expensive. If you are even thinking about other modifications I would definitely recommend an aftermarket radiator as well. You can usually find a Fluidyne or Koyo on here, pretty reasonably. The stock rad is a bit small for this motor, especially modified, and prone to cracking. Also swap out your AST (air separation tank) . Same plastic as the stock rad end tanks, and prone to cracking. This will take care of your intake temps at boost and your engine cooling. You should move your battery from the engine bay to the hatch area or behind the passenger seat in the storage compartment. This will create some more room under the hood for you.