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front bolt on e-shaft removal!

Old Sep 2, 2004 | 12:47 AM
  #1  
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From: Bellingham Wa
Angry front bolt on e-shaft removal!

i cant get the bugger off!

we had a breaker bar on it, with a breaker bar on that and we bent it!

we have heated it up red hot, but im gonna try to get it hotter.

the motor is out of the car and its down to the bare block.

anyone got ANY ideas!?

this is the only thing holding me up from rebuilding and 1/2 bridge porting my motor!!!
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 01:04 AM
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i use an 8 ft bar and have no issues at all getting it off. Just get something longer. I had more issues with trying to keep the engine stand from tipping over.
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 01:06 AM
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From: Bellingham Wa
holy ****

okay will do time to make a 9 foot bar
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 01:13 AM
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Ingersol Rand 1000lb titanium impact gun hooked up to a nitrous bottle. You may wanna wear bomb squad gear though.
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 01:25 AM
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All good suggestions Espeacially the bomb gear!!

Spray some PB blaster on it and let it set, spray some more on it and let it set some more. Repeat steps 1 & 2.

Then get your breaker bar. I just use a standard 2 foot bar, 1/2 inch. Add on to that a section pipe about 4 feet long ( to cover the entire shaft of the bar as to not bend the pipe) And have a heavy friend hold the stand. Pull with all your might!

The BEST way is to get at least a 3/4 - 1 inch impact gun. The one listed above should be enough ( A 1/2 inch gun gets laughed at!)

And for the sake of it, You ARE turning it to the left? And you DO have the flywheel retained with a stopper tool correct? If not, That will multiply the task 100 fold.

Last edited by BigIslandSevens; Sep 2, 2004 at 01:29 AM.
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 01:50 AM
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Quality impact wrench with plenty of force behind it (I drive mine with 150psi for extra kick) and heat always take them off. Just keep alternating between the two. Don't use one of those little pansy propane torches, use an oxyacetylene torch. IT'll put heat into that thing quickly. Don't distort the bolt head, or you'll be in real trouble.

Last resort, you can heat the bolt, then spray water on it to rapidly cool it, then repeat the heat and cool. This will shock the metal and seperate the bond between the threads. IT isn;t so good for the shaft or the bolt, though, so you'd wanna think twice about reusing them later. Eshafts and bolts aren't hard to get ahold of, though, so it wouldnt be a big deal.
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 07:20 AM
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Heat it up. That’s the only way I could get it off. I tried the breaker bar, and my impact, but neither worked. I did spray a lot of PB Blaster on it and let it sit. What are you using to heat it up? If you are using an oxy/acetylene torch you should have no problem getting it off. Just heat it put the impact on and it will come right off. Of course you will fry all the o-rings though.
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 08:03 AM
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The sucker really isn't torqued in that tight, but it IS a long bolt with a LOT of Loctite on it. I typically have a much harder time removing the front pulley bolt than the flywheel nut!

I've also heard of people loading the engine into a pickup and taking it to a tire shop for them to use one of their super-duper impact guns on it - that's another possibility.

Dale
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 02:47 PM
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From: Bellingham Wa
Ingersol Rand 1000lb titanium impact gun hooked up to a nitrous bottle. You may wanna wear bomb squad gear though. tryed that impact wrench 1000ftlbs didn't budge it!


Heat it up. That’s the only way I could get it off. I tried the breaker bar, and my impact, but neither worked. I did spray a lot of PB Blaster on it and let it sit. What are you using to heat it up? If you are using an oxy/acetylene torch you should have no problem getting it off. Just heat it put the impact on and it will come right off. Of course you will fry all the o-rings though.

ya that didn't do ****....
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 03:25 PM
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From: Anacortes, WA
i am a bud of RX7WEE's

we don't have a flywheel stopper tool but we don't seem to have many problems holidng the flywheel, this whole setup is kind of ghetto rigged, yes we've been using an oxyacetylene torch, impact wrenches... the engine is not mounted on a stand, it's on a table, but it's secured pretty well...

The flywheel nut came off without a hitch, but its this pulley bolt that is causing probs

Also, we can't afford to destroy the eccentric shaft etc, as we're on a budget, but any other suggestions are appriciated.
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 03:41 PM
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
You were supposed to take off the pully/front cover-eccentric shaft nut "first". I took mine off with a nitrous bottle. The bomb squad gear was used for saftey and gloves to hold it as it gets frozen. You don't want to use the gun afterwards for about an hour or so. You should put the flywheel back on and mount the flywheel stopper and then try again. Are you sure your gun is 100lbs in reverse? Only the IR titanium is that powerfull, that I know of. My IR is only 600lbs in reverse.

Last edited by GoRacer; Sep 2, 2004 at 03:44 PM.
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by dcfc3s
I've also heard of people loading the engine into a pickup and taking it to a tire shop for them to use one of their super-duper impact guns on it - that's another possibility.

Dale
This works like a charm. Is there a discount tire nearby?

Also, who is doing the half-bridge for you?
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 07:30 PM
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From: Bellingham Wa
Ingersol Rand 1000lb titanium impact we used that EXACT SAME GUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! with 125psi of pressure in the tank.

we haven't heated the bolt and turned it at the same time

atkins or me and a buddy who has ported his motor (half bridge also)

yeah taken it to Tire places and a tow truck dude. nether were able to budge it

i think im gonna see if atkins can break the ****** lose

Last edited by RX7WEEE; Sep 2, 2004 at 07:34 PM.
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 08:09 PM
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I hooked the IR titanium (1000lb torque) gun to a nitrous bottle. Well Vince did and claimed over 1000psi! It only took a fraction of a second for the nut to fly off and itt took longer for it to slow down.

I rolled my block to Goodyear on a piano mover dolly previous to that but it wouldn't budge. He tried a 1/2" wrench and a pipe and broke his socket wrench. I think they run 150psi. At least that's what my bro-n-law said they ran at Honda but their guns are 250-500lbs of torque.

If you can't do the nitrous trick, then hook up the flywheel with the stopper and get the biggest breaker bar you can find.
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 08:32 PM
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I was just commenting to co-workers today that is the worst bolt to remove on the whole car (in this case an RX-8).

You have to heat it for a little while, but you don't need to get it really hot, just hot enough to melt the locktite, and long enough to ensure you melt the locktite the entire length of the bolt. That wouldn't be hot enough to harm anything else if you can control the heat.
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 09:52 PM
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It's weird, I can't remember having any problems like this at the shop. Of course, we have "Big Bertha," which is a monstrous 1 inch air gun. Can't remember any of the specs on her, but she zips them off every time
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 11:37 PM
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lol "big bertha" DAMN U, bring me your impact gun..... anymore ideas?
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Old Sep 3, 2004 | 01:29 AM
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The way I do it .... remove the oil pan, place engine on the ground (this way it sits better and won't rotate). Heat the bolt until you notice smelly fumes going up your nostrils. Use an extension bar of rough length say 2m. Sit on your *** on the floor, place left foot on 90degree bend of breaker bar. Pull breaker bar anticlockwise towards you, at the same time pushing with your left leg. Make sure you have about 2 friends standing on your engine to stop it from rotating on the floor. Has always worked for me this way. Good luck.
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Old Sep 3, 2004 | 02:08 AM
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After trying with the 6 ft breaker bar and lack of impact, I went to peter built and they got it off. Not to mention the 2 1/8" nut for the flywheel too.
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