YellowT2

iTrader: (1)

I'll try to get all the info in here so there aren't too many questions:

Almost stock car (downpipe and manual boost controllers); stock ECU, stock turbos, all stock solenoids, including emissions stuff (CA car, needs to pass smog!)
Engine was running fine until it lost an apex seal (about a year ago)

Rebuilt the engine (myself); found some crispiness in the emissions harness, so I replaced a few connectors while things were apart
Had injectors cleaned and flow-checked
New air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs
Checked all solenoids (manually hooked up to 12V and verified clicking)
Replaced all vacuum hoses, reassembled according to FSM diagram (I think I got it all right)
Reinstalled engine and reassembled everything

Now: the engine will start; it didn't idle at the old TB setting, so I raised the idle a bit so it would "idle" on its own (at about 1200RPM). Let it run for 10-15 minutes to burn off assembly lube, let the thermostat open, etc.
Took it for a quick spin around the block, and it's very low on power. Pulled back into driveway and tried free-revving it; it revs slowly, and at about 2800RPM it kind of cuts out and starts backfiring, and won't free-rev above 3000RPM at all.

Checked codes; originally got codes 42 and 43 (for the wastegate and pre-control solenoids, which I had left disconnected), so I know the CEL works. Plugged in the two solenoids and now get no CEL and no codes. One caveat: at 2800RPM when it starts cutting out, the CEL flickers a little, but I can't get any codes from it.
I hooked up a timing light to each spark plug wire, and they are all firing. Tried to check timing, but my trigger wheel doesn't seem to have any marks on it. During assembly it seemed keyed to only go on one way, so I don't think installation would be an issue?
Cleaned up the grounding points and added some new grounding wires; pulled the UIM and checked the ECU ground on top of the block and the ignition ground (both were connected and tight).
Checked fuel injector wiring at ECU and got good resistances (13.8 Ohms for the primaries and 14.0 Ohms for the secondaries)

Things I still need to do:
Pull the plugs and check them
Buy a fuel pressure gauge and check that

Questions:
Does anyone have a picture of the trigger wheel with timing marks so I can add them to mine?
Is it possible to install the trigger wheel the wrong way?
If the NE and G ignition pickups were plugged in wrong (switched), would the engine run at all?
Any ideas what would cause my symptoms (rough idle, and dies at old idle settings; low power; cuts out completely around 2800 RPM; but no CEL or codes)?
Is this limp mode? Is it possible to go into limp mode without a CEL?
What should I check next? Could a bad MAP sensor cause this? A bad knock sensor? I'm guessing it's something sensor or electrical related.

ondabirdhouse

iTrader: (26)

Which connectors did you replace?
Have you checked your own work...maybe you swapped wires/pins? Just a thought.

YellowT2

iTrader: (1)

I replaced quite a few (NE and G ignition pickups, injectors, TPS, IAT, AWS, fuel temp, a few solenoids, and the 4 connectors at the transmission). I did not change the O2 sensor or knock sensor connectors, and didn't touch any other harnesses (so the MAP sensor wiring and ignition harness are the same as they were). I thought about doing a pin-to-pin check while doing the work, but forgot to later on (got excited about putting the car back together).

That's why I was wondering about switching the NE and G connectors; what would that do? Would the car run at all?
Could mis-wiring the TPS cause anything like this to happen?

boosted414

iTrader: (30)

im thinking low compression combined with the amount of fuel its supposed to add. the blinking CEL is generally a misfire (on newer cars anyway, dont quote me on that for ours). take out the lower plugs and squirt some ATF/Marvel mystery oil in there, and just let it idle. dont drive. idle.. for like an hour.