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You should really check the UK for cars for sale. Yes you might have to pay taxes on them but the prices are more competitive. 40k euros (35K GBP) for a mildly modified 92 seems like a lot of money to me. In the UK, that car would struggle to get more than 25k GBP if that.
Which website do you recommend or are there shops specified on this kind of business? I only know pistonheads as a source for more exotics sports cars like TVRs.
Taxes are high since UK is not in the EU anymore: Import duty 10% and import sales tax another 19%.
What is an "Elbow" on the engine? I am not a native speaker and couln't find any usefull translation.
that one is tough, the Japanese translations go with compression tube, which is kind of odd too, anyways here is what i see in the engine bay.
green arrows are the elbows in question, for 92-93 these should both be silver, although the one on the turbos is/was sometimes replaced with an improved part which would be black.
red arrows are the 96+ thermostat housing and 96+ engine hook/alternator bracket (it is interesting that these are newer parts, but they didn't do the 96+ Y pipe, it also still has the chrome nuts on the intake, they switch to a dark plating in 1994)
and finally blue arrows are the factory body panel alignment holes. the 92-94? cars have oval pieces of JDM tape on them, 95+ the tape is just rectangle. JDM tape is some kind of fiber tape, they put it on after the body is primered and put together, but before it gets painted, so they are body color, with primer underneath. that one has the two on the body in the front, which is good, replacement parts don't come with the tape. fenders have been off/replaced though
honorable mentions, the fresh air thing between the bumper got upgraded to the 99 spec, which is nice. its also got the battery box lid too, this one points to the car being looked after, its cheap and available, but a lot of cars are still missing it. so this car looks like it would have an interesting story, but basically it looks like someone has done a nice job on it
Yes that is the VIN, simple as it is. Lets see what Akagi come up with. Note: several of the VIN search sites have Russian URLs. They also offer large downloads of manuals. Not sure if you'd want to download anything from a Russian url site, atm.
Here is a link to Buyee with a search for Mazda RX7 RX-7 FD3S, Automobiles, Used
that one is tough, the Japanese translations go with compression tube, which is kind of odd too, anyways here is what i see in the engine bay.
green arrows are the elbows in question, for 92-93 these should both be silver, although the one on the turbos is/was sometimes replaced with an improved part which would be black.
red arrows are the 96+ thermostat housing and 96+ engine hook/alternator bracket (it is interesting that these are newer parts, but they didn't do the 96+ Y pipe, it also still has the chrome nuts on the intake, they switch to a dark plating in 1994)
and finally blue arrows are the factory body panel alignment holes. the 92-94? cars have oval pieces of JDM tape on them, 95+ the tape is just rectangle. JDM tape is some kind of fiber tape, they put it on after the body is primered and put together, but before it gets painted, so they are body color, with primer underneath. that one has the two on the body in the front, which is good, replacement parts don't come with the tape. fenders have been off/replaced though
honorable mentions, the fresh air thing between the bumper got upgraded to the 99 spec, which is nice. its also got the battery box lid too, this one points to the car being looked after, its cheap and available, but a lot of cars are still missing it. so this car looks like it would have an interesting story, but basically it looks like someone has done a nice job on it
Thanks a lot! I feel like I learn so much more details about the FD with every single reply.
And the more i learn, the more i think this car in particular is not that bad.
The UK cars i found so far are either similar in pricing or are in a bad condition.
All very interesting finds for comparison. I slowly get the feeling i need some basic japanese langauge skills for this car lol.
The car you posted: Let's assume a price of 26k€ + transport and shipping (maybe 2000€) = 28k€ + 10% = 30.800€ + 19% (from 28k€) = 33.320€ till it is in the german port. Then i need to add the cost of changing the headlights and I gota car i have never test driven before. Somehow 4250€ doesn't sound that bad after all.
The was a LHD 1993 with "zero miles" with asking price of $265,000 on sale in Europe a while back. So there may be a considerable rarity premium in Europe.
The Australians put a floor on S8 pricing of about A$85,000.
Car is in Belgium, just next to Aachen (2:30h drive from where i live). He has a compression test ready, car also turn over quickly even after standing 2 weeks, idles well. But the car is for sale since august/september... so i am confused whats wrong.
Underneath looks like the car has been taken care of quite well, at least from this two pictures.
Originally Posted by Redbul
The was a LHD 1993 with "zero miles" with asking price of $265,000 on sale in Europe a while back. So there may be a considerable rarity premium in Europe.
The Australians put a floor on S8 pricing of about A$85,000.
This car looks very "S8", haha.
With S8 you mean series 8, like the last 3 years they were built? If so: Then yes, someone really modded quite a lot for that look.
My issue with this offer is the small rust at the tailgate-window area and the price. I think 40.000€ would be more than enough, even wihtout that small rust spot.
Looks like it may even have the Mazdaspeed PPF (the red brace underneath) Add another C$600.
Compare that underside to the 1999 Buyee S8.
Looks pretty clean. Might be difficult to come up with a new hatch. Likely having body work done is the more likely solution.
If seller is willing to take off the large hatch upper liner, you may be able to get a good look underneath of that area.
New hatch seals are not that expensive.
Risk is the bodyshop breaking the glass if they need to remove.
So you are back to looking for a spare hatch..
They do not trade very often, so someone might have one hanging around (in the UK?).
In any event, you can get the rust stopped then wait for a hatch to come up.
If the leak was a problem , maybe look for water accumulation evidence in the spare tire wheel well. Also get seller to lift the triangular tail light covers (in the hatch) and look for water accumulation evidence.
If the car has sat out a long time there could be significant crud built up there.
If seller is willing to take off the large hatch upper liner, you may be able to get a good look underneath of that area.
Seller just said he would fix it by sanding, resealing and repainting it like he did on his supra and provided pictures of the procedure. Looked very legit and nicely done. Would be included in the price.
The engine code checking is a good hint. I will eead into this. I only have a carly obd adapter, don‘t think it does anything here lol.
Bit odd, you'd hope it's the same car shown. Unless it's a lighting issue, or they don't paint those white wheels beyond the mounting face - looks like the typical corrosion crustiness on the inner barrel of "bare" alloy wheels. Subframe is late(r), S8 toe links, be interesting to see the date code on the tyres though, might be flintstones!
Assuming it's the same car, pinchwelds look to be in great shape for the age, so maybe owned by an enthusiast rather than just cocked out the razoo to reel in a gullible buyer. The felt on the fuel tank looks a bit too clean for 30 years, even if it's an only on Sunday car - and out of position, do they also have a requirement to steam clean the underside of imports there? Looking back in the engine bay, later booster too I think in the distance?
Some of dreamers here are asking 60s Aud now for early cars. When you can get a version VI RS for not a lot more doesn't seem to make much sense to me, but then again used to think 50k spirit R's and RZs were crazy!
Ebay wired LED you can use to test codes. You need one of these plus a jumper wire. Then you need to know which terminals in the diagnostic connector (In the engine bay in front of left strut tower) to connect to. My understanding is that the codes are largely the same as in the USDM FSM, with one or two exceptions.
02-05-23, 05:45 AM
