can i keep my stock radiator with a greddy FMIC. I dont really want to buy a new radiator right now. will i have problems with air flow?

 

Yes you can, but you'd be better of with an aftermarket replacement.
I still have my stock rad with my GReddy FMIC.
No problems so far, but I wish my temps were a little lower..

 

what are yoru temps in F usually around?

 

About 185-200F

 

The thermostat opens at 180- so your not getting much cooler than that.

 

i have no problems but i made both fans run all the time

just jake the bule wire and run it to a igntion power supply.

mine stays at 180-190

 

If you live in a warm climate, or track the FD, I recommend adding a Koyo rad, and junking the stock rad.

 

I can't imagine what would make you want to upgrade to more power before upgrading crucial parts of the system that are flawed from the factory but ok.

To each their own.

 

Hi guys,

I had a similar question to what was originally posted. I also wanted to know if I can install a Greddy 2-row with the stock rad and AC condensor in the stock locations.

My reason for this is simple: I want to install the parts first and run it for a few days to make sure there are no problems with the install. I do not want to install the 2-row, rad, AST, and flush my coolant ALL at the same time. If I have cooling or other problems afterwards it is gonna be a PITA to troubleshoot.

I want to install the 2 row first, and if there are no problems I want to install a fluidyne rad in the vertical position. Besides, I dont think it would make sense for me to install the fluidyne rad in the stock location , only to move it to the vertical position when I install my 2-row shortly after.

So anyways, will a Greddy 2-row fit in front of the stock radiator and AC condensor? BTW I have a 99+ front end (if that makes any difference).

EDIT: also, I dont expect to have a lot of cooling problems in daily driving. I do most of my driving when it is cool out. Usually in the morning at about 6 am and in the evening at 5 pm. When I have to drive the car during the day I usually take roads with no stop and go traffic.

thanks

 

^^^

anyone?

 

That decision is wrong. The radiator is more important then the FMIC. It only takes one overheat to ruin the o-rings which will cost you a rebuild. If the end tanks burst or one of the water hoses for that matter, you will overheat.

 

alot of people dont have trouble with their stock radiators. a few i know, actually produce colder temps. i wouldnt worry about it. installing the fmic should be ok. just watch your temp close. the greddy insturctions tell you exactly how to possition everything, and someone else on the board made instructions with nice pics. i would search for those.

 

I'm having heat problems... my FC tells me I'm getting 200+ F coolant temps. I suppose it's time to trash the stock radiator and get myself a new one and a FMIC.

 

Does the stock radiator still needs to relocate for the FMIC??

 

I guess if you're just driving around, you'll be ok with stock rad. No track days until the Koyo goes in though!

 

I hate to bust into this thread like this, but....Sleep do you prefer the Koyo over the Fluidyne? I'm doing reliabilty mods for now to my fairly stock FD.

 

I quess i have had diffrent problems then alot of people.

i dont think upgrading the rad should be one of the first things you do to your FD.

removing the AST or upgrading it is more important then a new rad. removing or upgrading cloged down pipe and main cat is important.

reguardless of what rad you have in your car. its all about getting the air to flow through it. so if you spend alot of money to buy a brand new rad, but bolt the same shitty stock fans to it what good does it do?

i have a alluminum rad waiting for a good fan or fans to bolt to it.

so even with the FM i wire the stock shitty fans to run all the time to keep air flowing...

the most important mod to keep your car running cold is FANS. not a over rated rad.

 

I think the Koyo is a better choice for the FMIC because of fitment problems with the Fluidyne. Or so I saw one time on the board.

 

little 7, yes, you have to stand it upright to allow room for the fmic. it is a minor move though, not a big deal. same for the ac compressor.

 

Jaded has a good point about the fans. If nothing else attach your shyte stock fans to the back of the FMIC and then get a nice fan like a black magic or similar to mount to the back of the radiator. That should really help with temps. I've seen it done a few times and it has worked beautifully. Just some food for thought. Laterz.

Zach

 

Koyo is the biggest racing radiator that will fit in the FD. That's my reason. That and the bling bling polished aluminum end tanks LOL

 

I have the Greddy/Trust 2 Rov FMIC and i have serious cooling problems. When at the track i only run 4-5 laps. And then my temps are about 110-120 celcius.

But for normal driving it's enough, then it stays at about 80-90 celcius.

I am fixing this problem by getting a new welded alu radiator. With a fixed flow. And verry thick. About twice the size of the original.

But also one more thing. Air flow is important. Get a fixed airflow into the radiator, and a air flow out of the motor room. A vented hood would help a lot. Since all the heat generated in the motor are beeing bloked by the hood.

 

Yeah, I see 110 to 115 C with a Koyo with 85 to 87 F ambient temps @ Putnam Park Road Course www.putnampark.com. It takes 7 to 8 laps before I hit 110 C, and the Power FC begins retarding ignition and thus power. I agree that a vented hood would help a great deal. FWIW, I've sealed off my radiator core with sealing foam ala Crispy Rx7 and Fritz Flynn's recommedations. Before the sealing, it took 5 to 6 laps before reaching 110 C with 85 to 87 F ambient temps. A vented hood would allow some place for the hot air to go, and in fact help more cooling air to come in. This will be my next upgrade for next summer. As the fall months arrive, cooling won't be an issue anymore...