jhammerrx7

iTrader: (5)

Ok I just unhooked my coolant line that goes to the throttle body and placed my palm on the filler neck and slowly pumped it.

I was only half way throught my first pump and coolant came out of the throttle body coolant line.

SOOOO, that means I should be good on coolant.

Now its just figuring out how to get air through the rad.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

You know how the stock radiator fits in the engine bay. If you tilt the top up and back enough to slide a 4" thick IC vertically in front of it, then that is how it is.

I took out the two plastic side pieces in the nose, have custon blocking plates on the side so air can not escape to the oil coolers, etc. See pic with yellow corners where some air can go around the IC to also enter the rad?

I also have the single shark mod to push the bottom of the nose down about 1".
Got this from Brad Barber the road racer.

I also use M2 steet/comp radiator, 25% Dexcool, 75% distilled water, Water Wetter; PFC fan controls set at 86,86,88, fan mod switch, radiator ducting, and
Mazdaspeed replica hood. All help to keep 370+RWHP cool.

Alpine

I've been thinking of fabricating air guides as well, but there is not alot of room down there for attachment points. Btw, where did you get the foams?

trini

iTrader: (2)

your rad. is too thick the air is not going threw it ... i have a sim set up with the stock rad and it does not run hot. . koyos are not very good with front mounts. there fine if left in stock location. see if someone will trade you for a fluidyne.. your car is not over heating in cruzing b/c the engine probably isnt reving as high. the car will realy alot on teh fans now with this set up and that rad.

jhammerrx7

iTrader: (5)

I'm bringing this one back from the dead.

Still the same problems.

I went for a cruise tonight. Nice cool night. Probably around 65-70 F out.

Well, with a little spirited driving around town (anywhere from 25 to 40 mph) the water temps stayed at a nice 89 to 95 F. Then I went out on the highway towards my buddies house. Only a 60 mph speed limit, but your climbing some hills on the way out.

Well in 5th gear doing about 60 mph up the hill, I maintained about 2-3 psi. Right away my temps sky rocketed to about 103 F. All this on a cool evening.

This is absolutely baffeling me.

Coolant levels are fine.

Tomorrow I will see if there is a stock T-Stat somewhere in town and swap it out to see if there is any changes.

As one member mentioned, he said I should try a Fluidyne radiator instead of the Koyo I am running now. Is there any reason the Fluidyne would cool any better?

Thanks for the help, Josh


And also, I should mention that my AC does not work. I accidentially broke a line doing my FMIC install. So driving around town I have the fan speed set on 1 with the AC button on to turn the fans on.

DaveW

You are suffering from a lack of cooling capacity. In order of importance:

1. Definitely get the stock OE thermostat - Call Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda for the best price: 888-533-3400

2. Assuming the thermostat is installed and working properly, the next most likely culprit is a partially-blocked radiator (I had a Ford Escort that did pretty much what you are describing, and a new radiator fixed it). Any tube that is blocked flows no coolant. If half the tubes are blocked, you are working with only half of the radiator. Temperatures will soar as more cooling is required due to more engine output.

3. Air flow and air ducting is also a suspect - did you ever get the areas around the radiator sealed properly?

jhammerrx7

iTrader: (5)

I haven't made anything permanent yet for the ducting.

But with the templates that I was using I did not see much of a change.

Would it be a good idea for me to toally flush the coolant system?

If so, should I take it to a garage to have it done or just do it at my house.

I have also been curious to throw a pressure test on the cooling system just to make sure that there isn't any leaks or anything.

After driving around yesterday I checked my coolant this morning before work and it was a little low, but it seems like I am always adding coolant.

I don't believe any is leaking into the rotors (no smoke or signs), but I could be wrong.

DaveW

1. Yes, but if the blockage is severe, this may not clear it.

2. They may have the same problem. A good radiator shop can "boil-out" the rad (after it is out of the car), but this can cause damage if the rad is corroded or otherwise marginal.

3. Your coolant loss is not severe enough (IMO) to be the cause of your overheating problem. It also doesn't sound severe enough to be a bad coolant seal. It is probably a result of running hot, not a cause. However, a pressure test could detect other incipient problems, and is probably a good idea, anyway.

Do you have the stock thermostat, or is yours a generic aftermarket one (often known to cause problems)?

jhammerrx7

iTrader: (5)

I have never changed the T-stat so I am guessing it is OEM.

I just got off the phone with our local Mazda dealership and they do not have an OEM t-stat in stock.

So, I will probably contact Ray @ Malloy and have him ship one out.

turbodrx7

iTrader: (43)

I have a greddy front mount, and i have never had this problem. I recently over the winter put 2 pull fans mounted on the back of my intercooler. I switched to evans, which is supposed to raise your temps a bit, and did notice a few degrees drop. On a very hot day in traffic the car runs about 92. On the highway, about 86.

DaveW

After this many years with one thermostat, it would not be surprising if it were not opening completely - that could definitely cause your problem. If the new thermostat doesn't fix the overheating, then worry about the other things.

jhammerrx7

iTrader: (5)

I ordered one from Ray and should have it on Friday. So I have a little project to work on this weekend. I will also try and fabricate up some kind of duct from the intercooler to the radiator.

Thanks for the help guys. I will let you know how it turns out. Hopefully this will solve my problems. Josh

Pistonkilla1

Any undates im in the SAME shoes your in... I have a Greddy FMIC and a Koyo rad.