I put my flywheel on with tons of red loctite, but didn't realize tilla fter that the FSM reccomends sealant as well.

Am I going to have issues with this?

 

I would.

Oil could decide to seep out into the clutch in the future, not worth it if you ask me.


=Ben

 

I am in the process of doing the same thing...what sealant does the FSM suggest? How much of an effort was it to get that nut off? I am borrowing the socket tomorrow...is it a 2 1/8" or 54mm? I grabed a 2 1/4 and it was too big...sorry to hijack but im interested in what you are going to do and could use the advice.

Thanks

 

Use some RightStuff.

:-) neil

 

54mm or 2 1/8 inch. As far as the sealant, something like this would be fine:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...et_Sealant.htm

 

It can vary, but if it's never been off it can be a PITA. If you have air and a big impact wrench, that's the way to go. It was Mahjikly pointed out to me some years ago that it's the quick application of torque that works best.
Otherwise, a big cheater bar with improvised extensions and a flywheel lock is probably in your future.

 

Something I should remember to do before throwing the clutch back on...

 

Sealant? Really? I don't have any and it's just fine. In most cases a good taper fit will mechanically seal off and the loc-tite will do the rest. I can't imagine where the sealant is supposed to fit with all of that.

 

Thanks...I measured it and grabbed a 2 1/8" this morning from my local truck repair shop.

 

I do have an impact and am going to give that a shot...I've also made up a flywheel stopper by bolting a long flat piece of steel to two of the pressure plate bolts and it hits one of the sub frame bolts to keep the flywheel from turning. It looks like it will work really well but my only concern is how much stress I may be putting on the two small bolts that hold the pressure plate on.

Has anyone done something similar? I know a true flywheel stopper should be used but it is not something I can get my hands on.

 

Is the sealant not for when you replace the rear main and O ring? Why would anyone put sealant on a nut? That doesn't make a whole lot of sense...

 

Here's the FSM:

 

Makes sense I guess...but I really can't see much oil leaking from behind the nut unless you've got bigger problems. Probably good to do more for prevention. Thank for the link.

 

Must be a belt and suspenders thing. While the taper and loc-tite usually provide an excellent seal, the loc-tite may not seal between the face of the nut and the flywheel.

Dave

 

I put silicone sealant on the face of the nut. Locktite on the threads.

 

I might as well do the same...I got the flywheel nut off in about 30 seconds last night. I was shocked. I guess I just set myself up thinking it would be much harder. The impact gun made it quick work.

The pilot bearing on the other hand, I worked on for 20 min and gave up. I don't think its going to come out in 1 piece without the AST.

Has anyone taken a center punch to one and just crushed it so they could pull it out? Will I do any damage to the crank?

 

i did the punch thing,,, just be carefuly, and do it slowly while payin attention and you'll be ok. best tool though is probably go to auto zone and get a pilot bearing remopver. you can borrow it for free, you just put a deposit down to guarantee that you'll bring the tool back i never put sealant on mine though lol.

 

How important is replacing the clutch fork on a 94 with 75, 000KM? I'm installing the ACT ZX3-HDMM...I thought it was the street strip but apparently its the street/occasional race? It came with the heavy duty pressure plate either way. I suppose I can always upgrade the disk down the road.

 

Check around with area owners...see if the have the SST to rent or loan. If not, you can try this.... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95987 . It's not cheap, but then neither is a replacing the e-shaft if you make a mistake...not to mention the work and frustration.

As for the fork...your call. Chances are you'd be OK, even with the upgraded PP. Last I knew, clutch forks were about $70 shipped. But if you have to R & R the transmission again....