flywheel nut + sealant
#1
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: LA, CA
Posts: 3,332
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
flywheel nut + sealant
I put my flywheel on with tons of red loctite, but didn't realize tilla fter that the FSM reccomends sealant as well.
Am I going to have issues with this?
Am I going to have issues with this?
#3
Thanks
#5
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
I am in the process of doing the same thing...what sealant does the FSM suggest? How much of an effort was it to get that nut off? I am borrowing the socket tomorrow...is it a 2 1/8" or 54mm? I grabed a 2 1/4 and it was too big...sorry to hijack but im interested in what you are going to do and could use the advice.
Thanks
Thanks
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...et_Sealant.htm
#6
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Otherwise, a big cheater bar with improvised extensions and a flywheel lock is probably in your future.
Trending Topics
#9
54mm or 2 1/8 inch. As far as the sealant, something like this would be fine:
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...et_Sealant.htm
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...et_Sealant.htm
#10
It can vary, but if it's never been off it can be a PITA. If you have air and a big impact wrench, that's the way to go. It was Mahjikly pointed out to me some years ago that it's the quick application of torque that works best.
Otherwise, a big cheater bar with improvised extensions and a flywheel lock is probably in your future.
Otherwise, a big cheater bar with improvised extensions and a flywheel lock is probably in your future.
Has anyone done something similar? I know a true flywheel stopper should be used but it is not something I can get my hands on.
#11
Is the sealant not for when you replace the rear main and O ring? Why would anyone put sealant on a nut? That doesn't make a whole lot of sense...
#13
#16
The pilot bearing on the other hand, I worked on for 20 min and gave up. I don't think its going to come out in 1 piece without the AST.
Has anyone taken a center punch to one and just crushed it so they could pull it out? Will I do any damage to the crank?
#17
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Katy Tx
Posts: 376
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i did the punch thing,,, just be carefuly, and do it slowly while payin attention and you'll be ok. best tool though is probably go to auto zone and get a pilot bearing remopver. you can borrow it for free, you just put a deposit down to guarantee that you'll bring the tool back i never put sealant on mine though lol.
#18
How important is replacing the clutch fork on a 94 with 75, 000KM? I'm installing the ACT ZX3-HDMM...I thought it was the street strip but apparently its the street/occasional race? It came with the heavy duty pressure plate either way. I suppose I can always upgrade the disk down the road.
#19
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Check around with area owners...see if the have the SST to rent or loan. If not, you can try this.... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95987 . It's not cheap, but then neither is a replacing the e-shaft if you make a mistake...not to mention the work and frustration.
As for the fork...your call. Chances are you'd be OK, even with the upgraded PP. Last I knew, clutch forks were about $70 shipped. But if you have to R & R the transmission again....
As for the fork...your call. Chances are you'd be OK, even with the upgraded PP. Last I knew, clutch forks were about $70 shipped. But if you have to R & R the transmission again....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LongDuck
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
12
10-07-15 08:12 PM