flywheel nut + sealant
I put my flywheel on with tons of red loctite, but didn't realize tilla fter that the FSM reccomends sealant as well.
Am I going to have issues with this? |
I would.
Oil could decide to seep out into the clutch in the future, not worth it if you ask me. =Ben |
Originally Posted by aaron_bc
(Post 9235516)
I put my flywheel on with tons of red loctite, but didn't realize tilla fter that the FSM reccomends sealant as well.
Am I going to have issues with this? Thanks |
Use some RightStuff.
:-) neil |
Originally Posted by MBRPRX7
(Post 9235911)
I am in the process of doing the same thing...what sealant does the FSM suggest? How much of an effort was it to get that nut off? I am borrowing the socket tomorrow...is it a 2 1/8" or 54mm? I grabed a 2 1/4 and it was too big...sorry to hijack but im interested in what you are going to do and could use the advice.
Thanks http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...et_Sealant.htm |
Originally Posted by MBRPRX7
(Post 9235911)
I am in the process of doing the same thing... How much of an effort was it to get that nut off?
Otherwise, a big cheater bar with improvised extensions and a flywheel lock is probably in your future. |
Something I should remember to do before throwing the clutch back on...
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Sealant? Really? I don't have any and it's just fine. In most cases a good taper fit will mechanically seal off and the loc-tite will do the rest. I can't imagine where the sealant is supposed to fit with all of that.
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
(Post 9235943)
54mm or 2 1/8 inch. As far as the sealant, something like this would be fine:
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...et_Sealant.htm |
Originally Posted by Sgtblue
(Post 9236021)
It can vary, but if it's never been off it can be a PITA. If you have air and a big impact wrench, that's the way to go. It was Mahjikly pointed out to me some years ago that it's the quick application of torque that works best. ;)
Otherwise, a big cheater bar with improvised extensions and a flywheel lock is probably in your future. Has anyone done something similar? I know a true flywheel stopper should be used but it is not something I can get my hands on. |
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
(Post 9236656)
Sealant? Really? I don't have any and it's just fine. In most cases a good taper fit will mechanically seal off and the loc-tite will do the rest. I can't imagine where the sealant is supposed to fit with all of that.
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1 Attachment(s)
Here's the FSM:
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
(Post 9236691)
Here's the FSM:
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Originally Posted by MBRPRX7
(Post 9236681)
Is the sealant not for when you replace the rear main and O ring? Why would anyone put sealant on a nut? That doesn't make a whole lot of sense...
Dave |
I put silicone sealant on the face of the nut. Locktite on the threads.
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Originally Posted by Rotary Experiment Seven
(Post 9237125)
I put silicone sealant on the face of the nut. Locktite on the threads.
The pilot bearing on the other hand, I worked on for 20 min and gave up. I don't think its going to come out in 1 piece without the AST. Has anyone taken a center punch to one and just crushed it so they could pull it out? Will I do any damage to the crank? |
i did the punch thing,,, just be carefuly, and do it slowly while payin attention and you'll be ok. best tool though is probably go to auto zone and get a pilot bearing remopver. you can borrow it for free, you just put a deposit down to guarantee that you'll bring the tool back :) i never put sealant on mine though lol.
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How important is replacing the clutch fork on a 94 with 75, 000KM? I'm installing the ACT ZX3-HDMM...I thought it was the street strip but apparently its the street/occasional race? It came with the heavy duty pressure plate either way. I suppose I can always upgrade the disk down the road.
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Check around with area owners...see if the have the SST to rent or loan. If not, you can try this.... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95987 . It's not cheap, but then neither is a replacing the e-shaft if you make a mistake...not to mention the work and frustration.
As for the fork...your call. Chances are you'd be OK, even with the upgraded PP. Last I knew, clutch forks were about $70 shipped. But if you have to R & R the transmission again.... :dunno: |
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