Flywheel nut. Auto to Manual coversion
01-21-04, 04:31 PM
#26
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Ok here is another question. Will a 94 clutch master fit on my 93 car? The 94 is cheaper. The guy at mazdaformance seems to think it will, but has anyone really done it? I am going to buy all the small cheaper stuff new. Thanks,
01-21-04, 04:40 PM
#28
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Buy the time I get all my parts and finish my research I should be able to do this with my eyes closed. But I never get that lucky there will be at least that one bolt that breaks or won't come off without six hours hard labor. 
01-21-04, 04:47 PM
#29
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Well, I am determined to make this an informative thread.
What gaskets and such would you guys recommend I change while I am at it.
And another question. Will my ACT clutch kit come with the pilot bearing seal? I know it come with the bearing but it doesn't say anything about the seal. Thanks,
What gaskets and such would you guys recommend I change while I am at it.
And another question. Will my ACT clutch kit come with the pilot bearing seal? I know it come with the bearing but it doesn't say anything about the seal. Thanks,
01-21-04, 06:01 PM
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You should replace the pilot bearing seal, the pilot bearing itself, the rear main seal, and also the rear stationary gear o-ring. There was a TSB for the o-ring, and it is in many cases what actually causes the rear engine oil leakage that many people have. Some replace the rear main only to find it still leaks... You may also think about the shift fork, they have been known to break in the FD.
Other then that, get a good impact. These bars and misc special holders and stuff is just a pain. You can impact it right off, and impact it on with the right gun and save yourself a shitload of time and energy. Don't forget the sealant on the back of the flywheel nut, btw.
I also replaced the front and rear transmission oil seals while I had it out. You may also want to think about your 5th gear synchro while the tranny is out. If its still in good shape just replacing the shift spindle will help save it. If you have to replace the synchro you can do it in about 30 min with the right tools. Its very easy.
Have fun!
Other then that, get a good impact. These bars and misc special holders and stuff is just a pain. You can impact it right off, and impact it on with the right gun and save yourself a shitload of time and energy. Don't forget the sealant on the back of the flywheel nut, btw.
I also replaced the front and rear transmission oil seals while I had it out. You may also want to think about your 5th gear synchro while the tranny is out. If its still in good shape just replacing the shift spindle will help save it. If you have to replace the synchro you can do it in about 30 min with the right tools. Its very easy.
Have fun!
01-21-04, 06:02 PM
#37
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Originally posted by Mahjik
Damn, what kind of impact do you have to get the 300+ ft/lbs of torque when you put everything back?
Damn, what kind of impact do you have to get the 300+ ft/lbs of torque when you put everything back?
01-21-04, 09:52 PM
#38
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What did you guys use to remove the auto flywheel and counter blance. A special tool from Mazda or just some puller I can pick up at the local parts shop. The later I hope. We can acually borrow tools from the local O-Reilly's parts store.
01-24-04, 09:00 PM
#41
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Originally posted by Jason93RX7R1
You should replace the pilot bearing seal, the pilot bearing itself, the rear main seal, and also the rear stationary gear o-ring. There was a TSB for the o-ring, and it is in many cases what actually causes the rear engine oil leakage that many people have. Some replace the rear main only to find it still leaks... You may also think about the shift fork, they have been known to break in the FD.
Other then that, get a good impact. These bars and misc special holders and stuff is just a pain. You can impact it right off, and impact it on with the right gun and save yourself a shitload of time and energy. Don't forget the sealant on the back of the flywheel nut, btw.
I also replaced the front and rear transmission oil seals while I had it out. You may also want to think about your 5th gear synchro while the tranny is out. If its still in good shape just replacing the shift spindle will help save it. If you have to replace the synchro you can do it in about 30 min with the right tools. Its very easy.
Have fun!
You should replace the pilot bearing seal, the pilot bearing itself, the rear main seal, and also the rear stationary gear o-ring. There was a TSB for the o-ring, and it is in many cases what actually causes the rear engine oil leakage that many people have. Some replace the rear main only to find it still leaks... You may also think about the shift fork, they have been known to break in the FD.
Other then that, get a good impact. These bars and misc special holders and stuff is just a pain. You can impact it right off, and impact it on with the right gun and save yourself a shitload of time and energy. Don't forget the sealant on the back of the flywheel nut, btw.
I also replaced the front and rear transmission oil seals while I had it out. You may also want to think about your 5th gear synchro while the tranny is out. If its still in good shape just replacing the shift spindle will help save it. If you have to replace the synchro you can do it in about 30 min with the right tools. Its very easy.
Have fun!
01-26-04, 07:30 PM
#42
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Got my torque wrench today. Ordered the giant socket from Sears. 22.99 for one socket. I still don't know what kind of sealant to use behind the flywheel nut.
01-26-04, 09:13 PM
#43
Originally posted by BRADYMAHONEY
Got my torque wrench today. Ordered the giant socket from Sears. 22.99 for one socket. I still don't know what kind of sealant to use behind the flywheel nut.
Got my torque wrench today. Ordered the giant socket from Sears. 22.99 for one socket. I still don't know what kind of sealant to use behind the flywheel nut.
01-26-04, 09:20 PM
#45
Originally posted by BRADYMAHONEY
The manual says use loctite on the threads but it also says use sealant behind the nut but it doesn't specify what kind. Thanks,
The manual says use loctite on the threads but it also says use sealant behind the nut but it doesn't specify what kind. Thanks,
01-28-04, 12:04 PM
#49
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Originally posted by 2GSLSE
instead of removing the nut(2 1/8") to remove the counterweight why don't you get a light flywheel and just bolt it on(the auto weight is what they all use anyways)
instead of removing the nut(2 1/8") to remove the counterweight why don't you get a light flywheel and just bolt it on(the auto weight is what they all use anyways)
My engine was rebuilt just 12k ago so I don't need to mess with my rear main seal.
