adam c

iTrader: (2)

A fraction of a second to overheat !!

I don't think so

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

You won't be laughing when yours blows! That's just silly to assume i'm mistaken when I have personal experience with this and obviously you don't. Everyone know the stock water temp gauge is incorrect and will not move untill the engine has "allready" overheated which is why it only takes a second for it to climb to the top ...because it was already there. It doesn't matter or change reality if you don't think so because i'm posting my experience. Welcome to o-ring denial.

You can go to your local ODA weekly meeting and get your chip. Hello everyone, my name is Adam C and I have o-ring denial.
Hello Adam C

FormerPorscheGuy

I would bet that you engine went becasue you did not have a functional temperature guage.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Well, I do have an aftermarket water temp gauge. I hope that I am watching it when it shoots up to 250 degrees in a fraction of a second.

BTW, I have been racing and working on RX7's for 22 years. You are not the only one who has torn apart a blown engine. Hello Mr. Experience

technonovice

I would contact the manufacturors as well if I were you.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

No I didn't have an aftermarket or acurate temp guage. I Can't say without a warning light and/or buzzer on it "preset" to my desired temp that I wouldn't have overlooked it either.

I never said a "aftermarket" temp guage would climb in a second, I said the OEM "stock" gauge would and you actually know that. The needle stays at warm untill it's allready overheated and that's why you have the aftermarket one. The original poster does not mention owning an aftermarket guage and this is gotten off topic. He's asking for experience. It doesn't matter that I only opened one block, I still replied with my experience. I replied with links to AWR and Mazdacomp which is where I got my info from on the radiator and water cooling. If anyone can prove those two companies wrong then great, we all benefit from the posted results. If I had the money, i'd sell my Fluidyne and buy a Mazdacomp and run evens coolant and install a real water temp guage with a warning light.

My reply still stands: If he can afford it to get the mazdacomp version. If anyone can prove Fluidyne is better then great, we all benefit. Untill that happens, I think Mazdacomp/AWR is a better choice. Everyone can post what they think, that's what this forum is for.

bureau_c

In the For What Its Worth department, my first aftermarket radiator was a Mazdacomp. It blew a leak in one corner for no apparent reason, so while I may be the sole failure in the history of that unit...my opinion as to its quality isn't so high. I ended up replacing it with a PWR, and I've been happy with it. No overheating here in South FL (to be fair I never overheated with the Mazdacomp either) and no giant leaks in the parking lot at work It didn't have the "wings" ont he side, which was actually fine with me because I have a Pettit intake and its supposed to get air from that space. The PWR was also nicely polished, not that you can see it once its installed.

jds

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

so whats the best rad to get if lets say you're going to get a fmic at the same time..

i mean like so you dont have to do any cutting or fabricating to make them both fit..

SPOautos

If any of you guys can do a fin count for me I'd greatly appreciate it. All you need to do is count the fins in one inch. I'd like the info no matter which radiator you have

Thanks,
STEPHEN

SPOautos

Anyone?

KevinK2

repost from performance forum:

fin counts:

19 stock 93
18 mazdacomp (~96-97)
13 fluidyne (~00-01)

SPOautos

Thanks a ton Kevin.

Anyone know what the Koyo count is?

STEPHEN

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Featuring a multi louvered fin design, this race radiator is equivalent to a 3 row radiator in cooling performance, but without the added bulk.

Isn't that a similar innovation that Apexi uses on their FMIC's which everyone beleives is the best design?

Since AWR uses Ron Davis cores and it's purchased by Mazdacomp, you are saying all 3 of them are hype? Anyhow, you didn't prove them wrong. Efficency can beat size just like in ball bearing turbos.

FormerPorscheGuy

Who were the add wizards that came up with that one.

Thermo dynamics and over all surface area assist in cooling.

Smaller radiators = less surface area = less coolant capacity = less airflow over actual area = less efficiency. Its simple math.


Try again GoRacer

rockshox

iTrader: (3)

if the mazdacomp has 18 fins per inch vs 13 on the fluidyne then it has more surface area.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Cooling fins are only one aspect of surface area. In fact, too many fins would block too much air, and reduce cooling efficiency. You cannot just say that more fins are better.

Number of cooling tubes is also a big factor in surface area, and efficiency.

FormerPorscheGuy

For arguments sake:

Lets say that the AWS radiator that GoRacer is championing has the same fin count as the Mazda Comp radiator.

Also for argument sake, lets say the Koyo has the same fin count as the Fluidine radiator. (I am championing the Koyo).

AWS = 18 fins per square inch.
KOYO = 13 fins per square inch.

*KOYO'S ACTUAL NUMBERS HAVE NOT BEEN LISTED HERE.

This measurement unfortunately does not take into account the thickness of the radiators.

AWS = 1.125" thick (according to GoRacer)
KOYO = 2" thick.

AWS = 18 fins per square inch X 1.125" = 20.25
Koyo = 13 fins per square inch X 2" = 26

That was my argument on efficiency of the radiator. This does not take into account the fact that more coolant is in contact with the cooling surface area on a Koyo then on an any of the above mentioned radiators. For arguments sake, this is the Mazda Comp's numbers and the fluidine radiator numbers.

Mazda Comp = 18 fins per square inch X 1.38" = 24.84
Fluidine = 13 fins per square inch X 1.5" = 19.5

This is my argument that the KOYO radiator is the best radiator that you can buy for a RX-7.

Jason C. Williams

bureau_c

That's not a good argument either. Your cooling airflow that is transferring heat away from the radiator is entering the front...by the time it hits the back fins its already much hotter and therefore able to carry away less heat. A radiator that is twice as thick is much less than twice as "good" because of this.

jds

FormerPorscheGuy

Your not taking into account that there is twice as much coolant in a given square inch of radiator surface becasue of the thickness of the core.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Air velocity plays a big part in cooling. If your fans are running at high speed, the air goes thru the radiator so quickly, that it is not in there long enough to increase in temperature very much. In this case, the rear portion of the fins will provide nearly as much cooling as the front.

Conversely, if you are stopped, with no fans running, a larger capacity radiator will keep the car from heating up as quickly .......... advantage Koyo.

All that being said, I chose the Fluidyne because of increased capacity AND fitment.

SPOautos

There are MANY balances in deciding the most efficient way to design a IC and many factors come into play.

There has to be a balance between, thickness, fin count, surface area, amount of ambient air hitting the radiator, and speed your traveling. Then you select a fan based on all that cause it all chances the efficiency of the fan. Its damn crazy I tell ya, I never thought of them in so much depth till I started doing my own custom radiator and IC.

To give you a little info about mine, its got more surface area than any of these mentioned, is thicker than any of them, will have the correct fin count for our application, is dual pass, and is also going to cost MORE haha. But hey, you'll get what you pay for.

Anyway, when its all said and done if you guys ask real nice I might start selling them

STEPHEN

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Fluidynes are nice but they are not a direct bolt-in. I've had to lower the rad a little so the IC duct (stock one) would fit and the upper rad hose pipe requires trimming of the fan plastic.

3 different NEW Fluidynes fit the same way.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I didn't have to lower the radiator duct, but I did have to trim the fan bracket.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

uhm ok, please

We are excluding http://griffinrad.com/faq.php and by the way AWR is the manufacturer of Mazdaspeed radiators which is also sold by Mazdacomp (4 z newb's).

mazda/feed

thank to all with the info i hope that this can awnser some of the those ? for others that looked on the search and could find anything thanks again