fluidyne vs mazdacomp radiator
 

hey guys and girls look i need a radiator. i was on the hiway doing about 95 and all of a sudden i had bells and whistels going off i pull over and there was coolant leaking one good thing is that i didnt see smoke comming from the back so now i think that my radiator went out on me if you anyone can give there 2 cents i would like that i allready tried to do the search thing and i get a whole lot of crap that im not looking for so please help im looking at the fuidyne or mazda comp radiator

Fuidyne is thicker and cheeper then the Mazda Comp.
Koyo is the best though, IMO.

Koyo is the biggest (pretty sure) and its cheap (in comparison) its 2" think where as the fluidyne is 1.5" and the stock is 1". more cooling!!! :D

I've never had any efficiency problems with either stock or my current Fluidyne. The stock will finally breach at the end tank joints in time. I think one can make a solid case for any of the three depending on the application.

Be sure to find the leak before you buy a new radiator. Hoses, AST, and temp sender are common sources for coolant leaks.

I just got Koyo couple weeks ago, I am pretty satisfy with it. it looks great!!!!!

I have the fluidyne and it works great and has a great reputation, not that Koyo or mazda comp arn't good as well but many people suggested fluidyne over the others. You can't go wrong with either, I'm just a nut when it comes to running top quality name brands.

Mazdacomp is the best, works like a 3-row. If you can afford it, then git it. Water cooling is 75% and our cars can "not" handle overheating. Chances are you've got blown o-rings from just this one incident.

and how do you know this? dont get the guy scared for no reason. hopefully the system alerted him before damage was done.

On the Gothamracing website there is a remark on the Koyo radiator saying they had some troubles when used with a FMIC.

Anybody got info on that??

The mazdacomp has ducting around the sides that helps seal ot off so the air has to go thru the core. The others done have this.

STEPHEN

Why would you write something like this:confused:

The Mazdacomp is smaller than the Fluidyne and Koyo. If the guy pulled over right away, there is no way that he would have blown his o-rings. The engine won't overheat instantly.

I would check your hoses before buying a new radiator. Its probably a bad hose, or one came off.

Ducts can be made, I would rather have a thicker radiator core.

GoRacer, I expected better from you.

Actually the Mazda Comp and Fluidyne both have a 1.5" thick core compared to the 1' thick stock and the Koyo has a 2" thick core.

In addition the Mazda Comp has ducts (more like wings on the sides) to keep the air from going around the sides.

STEPHEN

Incorrect

Size comparison as follows:

Stock = 1"
Mazda Comp = 1.33"
Fluidyne = 1.5"
Koyo = 2"

My info is just acording to info on Lightening in a World of Thunder where someone measured it with dial calipers and said it was 1.5" thick. Could be that its changed since then though. Course even on SR's website where he is trying to compare it to his it shows to be 1.4 with a tape measure and if you look close the metal peice on the end of a tape can move as much as .1 so it wouldnt supprise me if it was really 1.5"

But if you measured on at 1.33" then who knows.

STEPHEN

my old mazda comp was 1.38" thk, vs 1.0 stock and 1.5 fluidyne, and 2 koyo.

mazda comp alum side plates assume no ac lines ... I removed side plates and made better fitting closed cell foam pieces, like stock.

mazda comp front core area was less than stock, and had unfined tubes near the tanks. I figured net was a disappointing 25% better than stock. took lots of mods to make the fan frame fit properly on the radiator.

The fluidyne core has full stock front area, no unfinned tubes, and 1.5" core for about 50% gross improvement. Much better than M-comp, imho.

Since you've had both did you ever happen to count how many fins per inch they both had? Thats about the most important factor in heat exchange for a radiator

I've been very curious of the fin count on all these radiators.

I'm suprised about the fin problem around the endtanks on the Mazda Comp....that being an AWR core and all. Or at least it is now.....maybe they have changed cores at some point cause the pics certainly look like its a very high density of fins.

STEPHEN

Can you guys count the fins for me? I'm wondering about the Mazda Comp, Fluidyne, and Koyo, and I guess any other misc radiators out there. Just mark off an inch and count how many fins there are.

It would be a big help if anyone can do that.

STEPHEN

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He could have easily blown his o-rings with only one event just as I did and the race shop was suprised my car was driveable. The problem is it is a slow process and just gets worse. I had 15k mi on my rebuild when I blew my o-rings. As you can see from the link below, i'm quoting AWR. As for the o-ring experiance that was my own and not hearsay or made up. I too have had o-ring denial and i'm still not over it as my engine sits in my garage on a damn crate! Furthermore, if you read MazdaCompetition's web site it states that water cooling is 75% which leaves oil cooling at 25%. :eek: :(

http://www.awrracing.com/pages/cooling.html

The Fluidyne has a larger capacity, and is also a direct bolt in. The Fluidyne brand is well known as top of the line quality. I don't think the Mazdacomp is any better, and is certainly not worth the extra money. The best radiator I could get would be something I had custom made for my car, to fit with the mods I have. It would be very expensive, and not worth the price IMO.

If he pulled over right away, chances are very slim that he would blow an o-ring. If his o-ring was about to go anyway, that would certainly increase the odds a little.

Bad hoses cause my o-ring failure or at least in my conclusion. Coolant leaking out causing hot spots, which in turn causing overheating which in turn causing warpage and allowing the o-rings to get unseated. Once that's happened it only get's worse and a rebuild is needed. This is what i've concluded from my own engine from tearing it down myself. I have one with a small slit and another that bursted afterwards but since it was covered with a rubber sleeve I never saw the break. This is the small one to the turbos that I've posted for everyone to replace. I replaced mine with a Fluidyne but as I said the damage was allready done and the o-rings were allready blown. Since cooling is 75% water, then the Mazdacomp radiator is "not" over priced and certainly cheaper then a rebuild which cost me $5k and is still not back in my damn car.

I pulled over imediately and left the fans on and opened the hood but as anyone has experienced it only takes a fraction of a second to overheat and then it's too late!

Sounds like someone has had the wool pulled over their eyes by AWR's marketing department.

Simplly put, there are two ways to lower water temps.

1) increase air flow over the radiator
or
2) inrease the surface area of the radiator core.

There is no way in hell that a 1.125" radiator will cool better the a 2" will.

Sorry GoRacer, try again.