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Flooded...Anyone ever crack the upper intake and..

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Old 06-21-04, 07:55 PM
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Flooded...Anyone ever crack the upper intake and..

I was finishing up my clutch master and slave rebuild today and after the car wouldnt start. Tried everything and figured it was flooded so I pulled the plugs(they were wet with fuel) and put atf in both chambers. The car didnt start after that and the thought of trying that again after all of the setbacks I have had today did not make me happy. So I was thinking. What if I loosen the 5 bolts for the upper intake and stick a hose down in it long enough to get to the chambers and then funnel the atf in through there?

Anyone do it this way? I just hate removing the plugs again...

Shawn
Old 06-22-04, 03:19 PM
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I actually found some posts that said dont do this...

But why?

I have had some time and can actually visualize myself going back out there and pulling the plugs. The above post was really a desperate stab at the end of a frustrating day.

Shawn
Old 06-22-04, 04:36 PM
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Check if you have spark first. You didn't unplug the ignition module, did you? It's bolted to the inner fender near all the master / slave cylinder stuff. When I was installing my rebuild, I forgot to plug that back in, and obviously the car wouldn't start.
Old 06-22-04, 05:54 PM
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Shawn, there is nothing wrong with pooring ATF into the primary injector ports at the top of the LIM. I wouldn't stick a hose down there tough.
Old 06-22-04, 10:21 PM
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Originally posted by paw140
Check if you have spark first. You didn't unplug the ignition module, did you? It's bolted to the inner fender near all the master / slave cylinder stuff. When I was installing my rebuild, I forgot to plug that back in, and obviously the car wouldn't start.
I did have to move that module to get to the master cylinder since that is where I mounted my FPR. I hadnt thought to double check that one. MANY THANKS for the suggestion!

My plan is this:

1)Reset powerfc to make sure nothing happened to timing etc.
2)Check ignition module plugs.
3)Remove twinpower (KISS).
4)Verify spark.
5)Do atf again

Thanks,

Shawn
Old 06-22-04, 11:05 PM
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Take the plugs out, dry them off, and while they're out crank the engine for 10+ seconds.

Put the ATF in the chambers, then put the dry clean plugs back in and fire it up.
Old 06-22-04, 11:47 PM
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The "module" referred to is the igniter. I could absolutely seeing this being unplugged during clutch cylinder work. They're right in the way of each other.



Normally the igniter (with the large heat sink) is flush against the side with it's harness underneath it.
Old 06-23-04, 08:19 PM
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It was the ignitor (sp?). Something about the harness - I double checked everything and made sure it was mounted properly and it started right up.

Many thanks again to paw140 for the suggestion - as soon as you said it I knew that was it.

Shawn
Old 06-24-04, 01:21 AM
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I do it this way (amended though) all the time...so long as it gets into the engine, it doesnt matter how.

I;'d get 2 lengths of vacuum hose, and tee them together. Use the 2 nipples on the UIM on the passengers side to conect the hoses to. Use a handheld oil pump (like an oil can), pump the atf/oil into that hose slowly, several pumps. Replace the hoses/caps you removed from those 2 nipples, and you're done. No bolts to turn, no mess to make, no messing with plugs.

The only thing to remember is to pick 2 nipples that supply both front and rear rotors evenly.

This procedure works for the water injection trick (as a method to steamclean internals).
Old 06-24-04, 09:26 AM
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Originally posted by shawnk
It was the ignitor (sp?). Something about the harness - I double checked everything and made sure it was mounted properly and it started right up.

Many thanks again to paw140 for the suggestion - as soon as you said it I knew that was it.

Shawn
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