fixed my idle problems, backfiring, bucking and more...
12-04-06, 07:09 PM
#127
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Sorry, I don't have a picture, but if you look where the elbox connects to the throttle body, it's inset a bit near the bottom right screw. It's not like the other adjustment screws, just a flathead that screws in and out towards the driver side of the car (U.S.). You want to adjust your idle there because if you adjust it with the butterfly screws, the reading on your TPS will show it to be slightly open causing your computer to think your car is not at idle.
12-04-06, 11:30 PM
#128
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where to adjust the screw when adjusting the tps originaly ??. Can i have a simpler guide to adjust the tps ?? i tried once but didnt work
this is what i did. i attaced the negative of the volt meter to the engine throtle body and positive to the wide and narow band turn by turn and go the correct readings on the extreme clockwise position. but there the car didnt run fine. ok i just passed throguh a very hot summer and i realized i have removed the water vavle and water is circulating the engine from start so it doest warm up quick. can that be problem ?? I would appreciate if someone gives me a step by step guide again. if possible email me at mrhot2000@hotmail.com
this is what i did. i attaced the negative of the volt meter to the engine throtle body and positive to the wide and narow band turn by turn and go the correct readings on the extreme clockwise position. but there the car didnt run fine. ok i just passed throguh a very hot summer and i realized i have removed the water vavle and water is circulating the engine from start so it doest warm up quick. can that be problem ?? I would appreciate if someone gives me a step by step guide again. if possible email me at mrhot2000@hotmail.com
12-14-06, 06:27 PM
#131
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Now this Symptom is fixed on this RX
Originally Posted by rousu
The bogging, hunting oscillation, hesitation and surging at light to moderate loads is still going on. The mechanic seems to have given up on finding a cause, unless it is sticking injectors. Extra fuel smoke on startup makes him suspect the injectors are leaking into the chamber on shutoff, and maybe when it is running. It might be only noticable under light loading. He poured in some Techron and suggested I do the same for a few tanks.
I don't have great confidence that engine cleaner will fix the problem.
Any other good ideas? Would it be worth it to pull and clean or replace the injectors?
ciao
I don't have great confidence that engine cleaner will fix the problem.
Any other good ideas? Would it be worth it to pull and clean or replace the injectors?
ciao
Voila!
12-21-06, 11:49 PM
#132
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well i just fond out my engine was grounded well enough but the body was only grounded using the tiny ground kit wires even the battery negative terminal wire is connected to the engine. I hope i will get a better result now
12-26-06, 02:23 PM
#133
hey guys i cannot get the tps to be at your specs. if i get the black wire at .4v the green/red wire will be at like .856. and if i get the green/red wire at 1.v the black is at .330v. is there something thats wrong here i've tried everything yet i cannot get it to go to the specs. its pretty weird cause its not a specified difference between the two like .500v. before someone says it too its not the harness because its all new. does anyone have the ohm specs to check the tps or a way to check it out? if you guys can get back to me with some advice that would be great!
-Lance
-Lance
12-28-06, 06:16 PM
#135
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Originally Posted by mono4lamar
hey guys i cannot get the tps to be at your specs.
...
does anyone have the ohm specs to check the tps or a way to check it out?
...
does anyone have the ohm specs to check the tps or a way to check it out?
It doesn't sound like yours is out of spec, but it is weird that one voltage goes up and the other goes down.
12-30-06, 03:21 PM
#137
i did this adjustment and now sometimes it idles at 750 but then i can drive around and stop at a light and it will be at 1400-1500. when the cars cold for the most part first 10 mins of driving after warm up obviously it has a dead spot in the first part of the throttle then comes alive and sometimes backfires. im almost thinking it could be the wax rod assembly on this thing... anyone know any pfc settings to try before i rip out the wax rod setup? i wish we could get some specs on the tps ohm resistance.
01-24-07, 09:41 PM
#138
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also check your wire harness connection to the TPS sensor some times they break up and get bad connection...
is anyone using this adjustment on a ported motor, my car is surging and my motor is freshly built and ported... on 25 miles on it... someone told me it was cause the PFC is searching thru cells to work for the port, and that i would need a datalogit to fix the problem?
is anyone using this adjustment on a ported motor, my car is surging and my motor is freshly built and ported... on 25 miles on it... someone told me it was cause the PFC is searching thru cells to work for the port, and that i would need a datalogit to fix the problem?
01-25-07, 04:07 PM
#139
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check out my problem. i was checking via PFC that my TPS full range sensor (VTA1)voltage is always higher then the narrow range (VTA2) voltage. example: when i adjust my TPS narrow range sensor (VTA2) to 0.75volt at closed throttle, i get 1.45volts at full range sensor (VTA1).
The full range (VTA1) voltage is supposed to be lower then the narrow Range (VTA2) voltage right?
P.S. my WOT voltage reads perfect VTA1 full range shows 4.48 volts, and VTA2 narrow range shows 4.98 volts at WOT.. any idea guys?
P.S.S. I did this with the car completely cold would it make a diffrence since i eliminated the wax rod fast idle cold start crap
The full range (VTA1) voltage is supposed to be lower then the narrow Range (VTA2) voltage right?
P.S. my WOT voltage reads perfect VTA1 full range shows 4.48 volts, and VTA2 narrow range shows 4.98 volts at WOT.. any idea guys?
P.S.S. I did this with the car completely cold would it make a diffrence since i eliminated the wax rod fast idle cold start crap
01-26-07, 01:36 PM
#140
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Originally Posted by mrhot2000
Well I am getting 0.66 on 1.27 lower then this car starts to hunt for idle after warmup
Set it properly, let it do the re-learn.
01-26-07, 01:38 PM
#141
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Originally Posted by T88Rx7
P.S.S. I did this with the car completely cold would it make a diffrence since i eliminated the wax rod fast idle cold start crap
01-26-07, 01:45 PM
#142
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Originally Posted by mono4lamar
i did this adjustment and now sometimes it idles at 750 but then i can drive around and stop at a light and it will be at 1400-1500. when the cars cold for the most part first 10 mins of driving after warm up obviously it has a dead spot in the first part of the throttle then comes alive and sometimes backfires. im almost thinking it could be the wax rod assembly on this thing... anyone know any pfc settings to try before i rip out the wax rod setup? i wish we could get some specs on the tps ohm resistance.
01-26-07, 01:59 PM
#143
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Originally Posted by kashent
No. Once the thermal wax is gone it makes no difference.
so why cant i get the voltage in spec, if i get either or volatge in spec the other one would be way off. like when i put the narrow range voltage in spec the full range is out of wack. example narrow range is set at .75 volts closed then full range would be at 1.45v, and isnt the full range voltage be at less volts then the narrow range voltage. but when i give WOT both voltage are in spec no matter where i set the tps
01-26-07, 05:59 PM
#144
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ok i found the situation with the TPS, i cut it open and i was rusted like crazy inside, so i took it aparts cleaned its and solder it. put the TPS back in and bam... its right on the money... happy *** hell i am.
now i reset the pfc and let it go threw its learning process and it is surging still. Someone told me it was because the motor is ported? i thought i seen a few guys with stock injector ported motor and pfc running fine with stock PFC maps?
now i reset the pfc and let it go threw its learning process and it is surging still. Someone told me it was because the motor is ported? i thought i seen a few guys with stock injector ported motor and pfc running fine with stock PFC maps?
01-26-07, 06:13 PM
#145
^ thats the exact situation i had when setting the voltages!!!! maybe i should crack mine open to see if its defective? does anyone know the going Ray Crowe prices on a new TPS sensor. i have a spare tb with one on it but i suspect that if this one on my manifold thats always under the hood that is away from weather elements is bad that my spare in storage has accumulated some moisture aswell. this is kinda exciting if its the tps this problem quite annoying when you have a new motor in the car and it runs shitty. 
01-26-07, 06:51 PM
#147
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Originally Posted by kashent
I believe they're fairly pricey, check back a few pages. I've also got pics earlier of what the inside of the TPS looks like.
01-26-07, 08:03 PM
#148
Originally Posted by kashent
So anyways, I figured I'd take mine apart just to see what was inside, but after cleaning all the buildup off the circuit boards and re-soldering(sp?) the connections, mine has gone from completely out of spec to working perfectly. So now I'm thinking of reusing it. Of course, I've dremelled the casing up quite a bit, but it's probably re-assemble-able. I'll post pics of the re-assembly in case someone actually wants to rebuild their sensor. FWIW, I could have done it with two cuts if I had known what was inside.
Oh, and as to why someone would want to go through the trouble? Dissection to re-assembly took me about half-an-hour, not having any idea what I was doing. Purchasing a new TPS? $198.
Oh, and as to why someone would want to go through the trouble? Dissection to re-assembly took me about half-an-hour, not having any idea what I was doing. Purchasing a new TPS? $198.
Kashent, what eactly did you use to clean up the connectors? alcohol and a wire brush? im might as well tear mine apart and if its not possible to salvage try my spare or pay that nasty bill! let me know...
01-26-07, 09:47 PM
#150
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Originally Posted by mono4lamar
yeah looks like its $198. i guess i'll call Mr Crowe tomorrow and see the exact price!
Kashent, what eactly did you use to clean up the connectors? alcohol and a wire brush? im might as well tear mine apart and if its not possible to salvage try my spare or pay that nasty bill! let me know...
Kashent, what eactly did you use to clean up the connectors? alcohol and a wire brush? im might as well tear mine apart and if its not possible to salvage try my spare or pay that nasty bill! let me know...
I believe Ray had it for $170ish.