fixed my idle problems, backfiring, bucking and more...
#27
Senior Member
yes i know damian, i posted in the wrong thread
I got a ip about trying to rev my car.
Btw i tried that and i could rev it all the way to redline.
I've discouvered that my problem is probably boost related. When i get boost i get a fuelcut, atleast i think it's a fuel-cut since it's just like the engine stops for a split second, and then when i let go of the gaspedal i get a backfire and it runs again.
Read on my other thread:
"Bump when accelerating"
I got a ip about trying to rev my car.
Btw i tried that and i could rev it all the way to redline.
I've discouvered that my problem is probably boost related. When i get boost i get a fuelcut, atleast i think it's a fuel-cut since it's just like the engine stops for a split second, and then when i let go of the gaspedal i get a backfire and it runs again.
Read on my other thread:
"Bump when accelerating"
#33
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Just did the procedure in the link and it has fixed my back firing problem on start up, between gears and on decel. Easy job, and took less then a hour to do.
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your help.
#37
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Damian... do you work at Mazda in milford CT? Just curious, a guy I spoke to there recently told me that my TPS might be the culprit for similiar problems I am having.
Just a silly question. To recalibrate the TPS... the car can be off, but the key in On... and then hook up the volt meter and adjust the screws?
Just a silly question. To recalibrate the TPS... the car can be off, but the key in On... and then hook up the volt meter and adjust the screws?
#38
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Originally Posted by fstfwd
Damian... do you work at Mazda in milford CT? Just curious, a guy I spoke to there recently told me that my TPS might be the culprit for similiar problems I am having.
Just a silly question. To recalibrate the TPS... the car can be off, but the key in On... and then hook up the volt meter and adjust the screws?
Just a silly question. To recalibrate the TPS... the car can be off, but the key in On... and then hook up the volt meter and adjust the screws?
The screws themselves do not adjust. The car doesn't need to be running as Damian mentioned, just needs ignition on.
#39
Originally Posted by fstfwd
Damian... do you work at Mazda in milford CT? Just curious, a guy I spoke to there recently told me that my TPS might be the culprit for similiar problems I am having.
Just a silly question. To recalibrate the TPS... the car can be off, but the key in On... and then hook up the volt meter and adjust the screws?
Just a silly question. To recalibrate the TPS... the car can be off, but the key in On... and then hook up the volt meter and adjust the screws?
heheh, no, i dont work for mazda...maybe i should LOL :-)
Im a computer geek, not a mechanic ;-)
you had the last part right, you can calibrate it with key in on position, with the car not running, hook up vlt meter, loosen screws, adjust tps, tighten screws, recheck voltage again to be sure.
#40
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if you have a PowerFC you can also use the voltage reading under the etc menu instead of a voltmeter
i read a difference of .2 volts between my radio shack digital meter and the reading on the powerfc.
i read a difference of .2 volts between my radio shack digital meter and the reading on the powerfc.
#41
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I took my car out for a drive during lunch today... and had my friend monitor the VTA1 and VTA2 voltages on the PFC while I put the pedal all the way down...
VTA1 read from ~ .4 - 3.8
VTA2 read from ~ 1.14 - 4.97
So it's looking like VTA1 is off by almost 1 volt! That certainly could be contributing to some problems ... whether or not it will fix them remains to be seen.
I read through the tech doc at scuderiaciriani.com on the TPS adjustment. However, it just mentions that if all 4 voltages aren't withing range... rotate the whole unit.
How do I adjust the top end voltage for full range (VTA1) so that it will not get stuck at ~3.8v?
VTA1 read from ~ .4 - 3.8
VTA2 read from ~ 1.14 - 4.97
So it's looking like VTA1 is off by almost 1 volt! That certainly could be contributing to some problems ... whether or not it will fix them remains to be seen.
I read through the tech doc at scuderiaciriani.com on the TPS adjustment. However, it just mentions that if all 4 voltages aren't withing range... rotate the whole unit.
How do I adjust the top end voltage for full range (VTA1) so that it will not get stuck at ~3.8v?
#42
Originally Posted by fstfwd
How do I adjust the top end voltage for full range (VTA1) so that it will not get stuck at ~3.8v?
i would first make sure that your actually opening the throttle all the way at WOT, maybe its not actually opening all the way because of a mal-adjusted throttle wire, pedal, or something. Then I would start adjusting the TPS after you verify the throttle is actually opening all the way.
#43
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I gave this another test at home. I turned the key to ON after the car warmed up (but engine off), and pushed the pedal as far as I could... and the reading for VTA1 wouldn't go past ~3.8v... while VTA2 made it up around ~4.8. If the cable wasn't adjusted right, wouldn't that effect both readings? Just wondering. Is it abnormal for only one range to be off?
#46
Originally Posted by fstfwd
I gave this another test at home. I turned the key to ON after the car warmed up (but engine off), and pushed the pedal as far as I could... and the reading for VTA1 wouldn't go past ~3.8v... while VTA2 made it up around ~4.8. If the cable wasn't adjusted right, wouldn't that effect both readings? Just wondering. Is it abnormal for only one range to be off?
#47
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Thanks for the thread damian, I adjusted my TPS last night as well as my idle screws and I now have the perfect 750 rpm smooth idle, which is a HUGE improvement from what used to be an idle that would hunt between 900 and 1400 rpms. It's also helped out my shifting some, my green/red wire that was supposed to be at like 1.0 V when closed was at 1.8 V so I think it was applying partial throttle at all times making my shifting more difficult.
#49
Originally Posted by steve-z
Thanks for the thread damian, I adjusted my TPS last night as well as my idle screws and I now have the perfect 750 rpm smooth idle, which is a HUGE improvement from what used to be an idle that would hunt between 900 and 1400 rpms. It's also helped out my shifting some, my green/red wire that was supposed to be at like 1.0 V when closed was at 1.8 V so I think it was applying partial throttle at all times making my shifting more difficult.
good to hear you got it fixed up :-)