Basically on my car there is no way this is fitting. Authentic M2 Medium IC with the Noltec Motor mounts, I have the Cusco OD Type Strut Bar and well there is no way to connect the tubing especially, on the turbo side.

I would like to know everyone out there with Noltec Motor Mounts, what have been your issues if any with a strut bar? I heard that the Cusco is the highest strut bar, so I don't see what else I could do.

 

How about washers under the STB mounts?

 

Do the Noltec mounts position the motor higher?

 

Yes they do position the motor higher from my experience.

I would use spacers on the Strut Bar but I only have so much thread from my coilovers.

Noone has Noltec mounts and an M2 IC?

 

i have the noltec mounts, my tubing does rub against the strut bar at times but no biggy? i was still able to get it on

i have the air pump friendly turbos side pipe, maybe that one works better? are you sure the mounts are seated properly?

 

What do you mean by "seated" properly, I am taking off my subframe next week to repair my oil leak so I will be able to look into the area.

Also, what kind of a Strutbar do you have?Did you modify the Y-pipe Coupler?

I talked about machining the motor mount arms to a friend of mine but he wouldn't do it because of potential strength issues.

 

the noltec mounts have the metal arms that connect the top of the mount to the bottom, make sure that those arms aren't hitting the subframe, you can spin the mounts around until they "fit" w/o touching the walls of the hole that they go in. you probably did make sure of this but i'm just checking?

the R1 strut bar did clamp down right at both couplers, so i changed it for a greddy one, which still clamps down a bit but not as much it seems? i haven't thought of using spacers, but i'll probably try that after i finish converting to single turbo

I am using a standard 3" silicone couple at the y-pipe, are you running the air pump friendly pipe? maybe that pipe can be recessed further within the coupler

 

Hmm from what I have heard the Cusco and Greddy bar is the same. So we should technically be in exactly the same boat. I also had the R1 bar and got rid of that when i got the new IC (had a Pettit CCII before).

I will check about the casing of the motor mounts, but if I made such a mistake I will hit myself over the head.

I am using the supplied piping which is aluminium and from what I have heard the airpump frienly one was a cast pipe and mine certainly doesn't look cast. It goes straight from the Y pipe to the IC. I have the original Breeze clamps and Samco couplers.

Also out of curiosity Scrubolio what radiator do you have?

 

i have noltec's and i dont have any problems with them as of yet. i had no idea that it made the engine sit-up higher. goodfellaFD3S built my engine and the clock position was dead on and did not bind between the engine and subframe.

 

Since you're taking off the pan to reseal, you could mill down the motor mount brace where it meets the oil pan.

Not sure if this will give the room needed but I plan to do this with mine when I install my Garfinkle oil pan brace.

Jack

 

^^

This is what my machinist friend didn't want to do for safety reasons. I will take everything off and take pictures for you. Scrub would pictures help to show what I am talking about.?

 

Do you have an oil pan brace installed? I cut down my poly mounts a bit to compensate for the extra thickness added by the brace.

I also beleive Garfinkle modified the metal portion of his motor mounts in some way to compensate for the added thickness from the brace. Maybe send him a PM?

 

I am actually going to be installing the Garfinkle oil pan brace which I guess is going to further compound my problem. Dammit, I would have really preferred to be able to run a strut bar.

 

Yes, Garfinkle did what I was referring to. I was nervous about taking materials off the metal part of the mounts until I read his post. I'm not taking about removing more than 1/4-in., probably more like 1/8-in.

The idea of trimming the poly part of the mounts would help too.

Jack

 

i'm running a stock rad, what pictures are you looking for? the position of the mounts? i'll try to get some up

 

My Rad and M2 IC duct just doesn't fit. I can't identify if it is because of the Fan shroud or because the radiator is too big.

 

Hey dradon did you ever get this to work?

I am worried about fitment also. Just wondered if you ended up milling your motor mounts by how much?

Thanks

 

Milled the stubs of the motor mounts down, to only be used with Garfinkles ETB works great.

Now fits with lots of clearance with the Cusco strutbar minimum 3/8 in.

Just a note though. When installing the Garfinkle ETB I noticed that my PPF alignment most have been done wrong, I always noted that my engine was a little titled towards the sky. So when I redid the alignment it became level so I could install the ETB but also netted me alot of clearance with the strutbar on the Greddy Elbow, so i would recommend trying that out.

 

The combination of an oil pan brace aftermarket motor mounts can easily cause the engine to sit 1/2-1" higher than stock. I usually shave down the mounts. There is no reason for them to be taller that I can see. If you have a Koyo rad it may also push the intercooler duct up. The fluidyne fits much better.

 

Thanks Dradon and Ihor...I just hate fitment issue with aftermarket parts.

Just to clarify, you are using the Oil pan brace and noltecs correct? You milled down the motor mounts only? By how much?

 

About 3/16"
Mine was raised about the thickness of the brace. At least on my car, I really don't think the mounts raised it much..if at all.
--> https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/engine-height-raised-oil-pan-brace-755290/

 

excellent. Thanks Jim

 

Mill the mounts, not the brace. I just put the aftermarket mounts side by side with the stock mounts and matched the height.

 

ahhh THANKS for the confirmation....

Now to find a machine shop in Dallas.