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First time doing brakes on the FD, few questions

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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 04:33 PM
  #26  
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You do not need the screws to install them. However it's nice when changing a wheel knowing the rotor can't move around.

Just get the impact screwdriver. I have one and for removing phillips head screws it's magic. I've used it more on non-car applications than anything else. You'll wonder how you didn't have one before.

David
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 06:32 PM
  #27  
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Finally got all of them off!!! I broke 2 or 3 drills while drilling 2 of them out, and then I found out later that its easier if I hammer a flat head screw driver into the screw a LOT of times and the get a vise grip clamp onto the screw driver, and remove it that way while pushing forward so it doesnt strip. Thanks for the help guys im never use these screws ever again!!!


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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 07:04 PM
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lol, I have to wonder why you post up for tips and then ignore them. Glad you were ultimately successful, but I can almost guarrantee those screws would have come out in <1 minute each with an impact driver. No stripping, cussing, broken drill bits and jacking with visegrips. And the screws would have still been usuable. Like degeesaman said, the screws aren't absolutely necessary but if reinstalled with a little anti-seize they'd come right out the next time.
And that impact driver is great for any number of things. I remember I loosened ever rat's nest screw with one.
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 08:52 PM
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How the hell do I take this apart???? I got 2 caliper on so far the third is partially installed, but I noitced that this piece supposed to come off to install on the new caliper, its part of the hand brake assy on the rear. I dont think it should be this hard, is there a special way to do this?

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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 09:19 PM
  #30  
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Looks like one of those spring “C” clips that you have to pry up & off of the fitting in order to release it from the bracket. With respect to your pic, on the boot side of the bracket, get something like a screwdriver tip in between the fitting and the bulky part of the clip (on-top) and pry it up and off. Then you can slide the bracket off of the fitting. Hope that helps you out.

Ted
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 10:08 PM
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wow so simple. got it out, thanks!
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Ernesto13B
Job completed and everything drives great Now I need to replace the RR broken wheel stud, and part of the brake hardware was missing on the RR wheel. Only the RR brake pads were grinding because it had tapered wear on the pads. This could be due to the caliper sticking, or the missing hardware/dirt contamination, and missing V clip. I cant replace the caliper now, too much down time I cant afford. I will see if over time, the missing hardware negatively affected the pad wear.

Brake hardware and wheel stud are special ordered and I will install when they arrive. Next month during tax return...Front pads and rotors and fluid exchange. I will also inspect the front pad wear as well and check for missing hardware
When you replace your wheel stud just take your whole hub assembly and axle to a shop and get the bearing and axle pressed out. Also buy a new wheel bearing as it will get destroyed in the process.
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 01:09 AM
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What is this and where does this go? I dont understand the picture im trying to figure out where to put this "M Clip". I tried to installl it but its like a puzzle and it doesn't look like it belong anywhere?
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 02:03 AM
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Im pretty sure that goes on the sliding pins that have the holes at the end of them.
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 05:52 AM
  #35  
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Are you talking about the small screws that are in the face of the rotor? Looks like you need a phillips to unscrew?

If so you don't need an impact screwdriver. Some people think you do because they seem seized in there when in reality you just need to shock them out.

I ran into that many times and each time I took a long phillips with the long neck, stuck the tip in the head and whacked it hard 3 times, then I turned it and it unscrwed like nothing.

Try that before you go crazy.
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 09:01 AM
  #36  
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yea, that clip hooks over the top of the caliper and the two ends go through the holes in the slide pins.
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Ernesto13B
What is this and where does this go? I dont understand the picture im trying to figure out where to put this "M Clip". I tried to installl it but its like a puzzle and it doesn't look like it belong anywhere?
Always do one side at a time. Go take a peek at the brakes on the opposite side.
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 05:17 PM
  #38  
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Everything is back together except for the LR caliper. I cannot get the caliper/pads onto the rotor. I tried turning the piston as much as possible to press the piston inwards and it doesnt go any further. I think its defective, because I didnt have this problem with the RR assy at all, it just slid right in no prob. I already tried cracking open the bleeder valve to make it easier but it didnt help.

Does anybody think the reman LR caliper is defective besides me?
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 05:27 PM
  #39  
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Hard to explain but with the rear calipers the piston that you screwed is mostly used for the ebrake. You'll need to push the outside ring and pull the inside ring so you can get space for the pads to go in. I hope i'm making sense here's a pic
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 06:30 PM
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I tried what you said just now and it didnt make any difference, same problem it doesnt go all the way in and I cannot get both of the slide pins on. I REALLY believe the reman caliper is defective. The piston is NOT wanting to return all the way in. Check out this picture



Doesn't this look weird for a piston thats already pressed inward as far as it can go? All 3 other reman calipers did NOT have this problem, and they are already installed and done.

If anybody has any thoughts on this, let me know, because if this is the case, I need to get another caliper asap. This "simple" brake job is more frustrating then it was to relocate my fuel filter
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 08:06 PM
  #41  
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Following closely, I'm doing this soon once I find my vacuum leak.
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 08:17 PM
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Anybody? I know defective new parts are not very common, but ive installed brakes on this side of the car 2 or 3 times already, and whenever the pads wouldnt fit on properly, I always turned the piston insward until it maxed out, and then it fit perfect. In this case the piston is not going all the way in and I find that odd especially on a reman caliper
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 09:10 PM
  #43  
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wouldnt be the first time a reman was bad. just guessing here - if you remove the parking brake cable maybe you could get the piston to go in further, the reconnect it?
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 01:55 AM
  #44  
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No I dont think that would make a difference, because just now I tried turning the piston inward on my old caliper and it looks exactly the same as my new caliper, which leads me to believe that maby its not defective and im just now doing it right. This is just unbelieveable, I cant believe this is this difficult. The RR side slipped right on and took me about 10-15 min to get it together.

Might have to do a search on this, I dont think theres a special way to install them, this feels almost like rocket science, decided to take a break for the night because if I even look at that car again, I swear I will set it on fire lol
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 05:09 AM
  #45  
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ok turns out that the caliper piston needs to be turned a certain way to line up with the notch on the back of the brake pad, I had no idea this needed to be done, and it doesnt say anything about this in the FSM (correct me if im wrong). One of the most frustrating things ever, but thank God now its done and everything drives fine, thanks guys for all the help
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