My oH my what a mission :P at least when its your first time. Now I can probably do it in 2 hours or less yet I found many "hidden" problems along the way.

Problems Found:
1. Coupler From Turbo to IC is Cracked (could explain
low boost)

2. Exhaust had a missing hanger.

3. Rear Sway bar had a nut missing on one side.

4. Plastic protector for fuel lines and brake lines cracked and broken. (Plan to replace with aluminum)


Well after all those problems were fixed we changed the front pads with lil problems. The rear were quite troublesome (didnt know you had to "srew in" the piston. We were fighting with it wondering what the problem was. In the end I lost a copper gasket which Im going to replace tommorow and I need to bleed the entire system tommorow. Wow what a waste of a Friday night :P. Or was it?

PS: Anyone got pics of where the proper place to jack up the car is? I nearly went through my floor with the jack !!! I had to try a couple spots before I got it.

 

Just for future refercen autozone rents out a specail tool thats used to twist and push in the pistons on the rear calipers.

 

You can get one from like an auto zone or what ever thats like that for the rear calipers. They have deals that fit that slot for them and it's only like 5-10$ for the most. All you do is push in and turn it.

 

There's a thin piece of reinforced metal on each side of the FD that runs parallel from underneath the body structure and sticks "down" about an inch. It can be felt and seen right below the door , about 3 inches into the chassis. This reinforced area is where you should place the jack and/or jack stands. If you intend to use a Jack, be sure to place it no more than 10 inches away from the edge of the wheel well. Otherwise, you'll get too much chassis flex when the car is lifted.

 

Whats the peace called? Please?

 

I don't really know what it's called but Iam sure if you go up to a place like auto zone, and tell them that you need a tool that spaces the calipers for your brakes they can help ya find one. Make sure that it's the one that has these circle looking things on it. There should be to of those looking things on it. The one i got just goes on a socit wrinch and you use that as the tool for it.

 

You could buy that lil tool. I tink the one that rx7racer88 is referrign to looks kinda like a cube.

The one I'm referring to is a free rental that twists and puches for you, all you have to do is turn the ****. I think its called a "disc brake caliper tool" I goto work tomorrow (I work there) and can get the part number for you. But they shoudl know what your talking about if you ask.

 

Yeah that deal I have is a cubed looking deal that has like 4 diff. shapes for the diff. caliper deals.

 

BTW, don't use that metal lip previously described for your floor jack. That area is of the stock jack only. You can use your floor jack on the differential to jack the rear. It's late..so i forget where to jack the front from with a floor jack..someone will answer that part.

 

For the front, jack it up at the front cross member.

 

It's easy after you do it for the first time, then the other side will be cake. All I used were a set of plyers, and my hands! Get in there boy and get dirty changin dem der pads! lol, this link should help: http://www.bridow.com/rx7/howtobrakes.html It's a how to for the front brakes, if you need it.

 

As mentioned, in the rear use the diff. There are some pics in the following thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=94583

 

I use the jacking rail with my floor jack all the time. No problems here.

 

If you jack on the lip with a floor jack won't you bend the crap out of it? That lip is designed for the type of jack included with the car.

 

It won't harm the reinforced lip at all. Just make sure you center the Hyd-Jack lift plate on the lip.

 

I put a few blocks of wood on the metal rail. Helps distribute the weight.

 

Aye thanks for the Autozone tip, I think I may have messed up a rear caliper trying to force it in , didnt know you had to screw it in. Also for the rear can I over tighthen the 2 bolts? My dad used a dam impact gun on it and those things are tight as f*Ck. The rotor barely spins. I have not run the car yet so I want to know if I should loosen them up a bit?

 

BUMP!
Anyone got a comment for the above question please?

 

Just an answer to my last question please?