NissanConvert

iTrader: (1)

what the stock fuel system is "good for" depends on the car. I wouldn't trust it for big numbers. It's simply easier to upgrade and not have to worry. that intercooler needs to go.

theorie

iTrader: (31)

exactly nissanconvert, every car is different.

we made around 16 pulls tonight.

also, we figured out why the original numbers seemed low...something was wrong with the boost controller, causing boost lag and also failure to make 10psi.

after we spent a good deal of time getting the A/F nicely balanced and smoothed out, we realized the boost controller wasn't functioning properly.

i disconnected the boost controller and we made one more pull. had to abort at 5000rpm because the turbos spiked to 15psi faster than we could react.

connected the boost controller again and reconfigured it for 10lbs. made another partial-pull to 5000rpm, and gained 60ft/lbs of torque at that level...something was definitely wrong with the boost controller for the first dozen pulls, causing the numbers to come out low.

we were getting tired and the car was getting heat soak, so we're going to give it a go again tomorrow.

when we do step up the boost, we'll be notching up 1psi at a time as far as we can while maintaining a safe a/f ratio...

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like you guys are being nice and conservative, but I have one comment with regards to high injector duty cycles: unlike a piston engine, the rotary doesn't have valves. The intake ports are either open or shrouded by the rotor, and spraying fuel at the side of the rotor due to high injector duty cycles seems like a good way to mix fuel in your oil.

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

My opinion about tuning and boost control: if it were me, I'd dial in the boost controller FIRST, with a rich mixture. Last time I was on the dyno I didn't quite have my boost control working right and it should have been the first thing I should have tuned. I had to tweak it on the street one last time and adjust the A/F ratio accordingly. It's a pain, trust me. If you're going to tune different boost levels, make a note of the settings and when you're ready to lean it out, put those values back in, make sure you're still running rich (check those injection tables and compare your INJ maps, even if you didn't change anything) and go town.

There's no point to fix the A/F with unreliable boost because you're going to have to tune the boost anyway and then re-tune the mixture. That is the mistake I made. You can make the PFC dump more fuel a lot of ways, one easy way is you can use the PFC commander and the water temperature correction table to add more fuel for the high-load or "boost" region (should probably be rows P10-P20 of the INJ map, but the PFC manual doesn't say anything else other than "high load").

Just be careful with the boost controller and keep that sucker rich while you're getting that figured out. Have fun, make a video, post pictures, and please post a dyno showing massive horsepower

G's 3rd Gen

iTrader: (11)

[QUOTE=theorie;8207490]right...

we're on pull #9. still smoothing out the A/F. haven't pushed more than 10psi.

get a catback? read the mod list or look at the photos

be more patient? we've done 9 pulls and haven't touched the boost controller...how is that not patient?

i really feel like people on this forum just TRY to make ******* comments.

i never said we were going to throw the car on the dyno and crank it up to 15psi. i said we were going to step everything up...Whatever punk.. Just trying to help.. You have no business above 13.5 psi w/ your fuel system and intercooler. Intake temps. and high duty cycles are receipes for disaster on rotaries. Not saying it's gonna blow but have seen many do it. Why not get everything together and make it right? Then tune w/ ALL the supporting mods. in place. Good luck ..

theorie

iTrader: (31)

so what, you're not allowed to tune a car until you spend $100,000 on it first?

what's wrong with tuning along the way to see the progress? lol

G's 3rd Gen

iTrader: (11)

Nothing! Just want to make sure you dont blow things up!!

theorie

iTrader: (31)

well, just ordered a Nippondenso "Supra TT" Fuel Pump...

theorie

iTrader: (31)

bringing this thread back from the dead...

anyway, i never updated the thread, but we later learned that the dyno settings were off and the initial pull made 345 horses. the original 250-something number was not the actual power.

we just made a few more pulls tonight after a few more changes. the final number was 380.3 horse, 297 torque @ 1.02 bar (stock turbos, non-seq)

the turbos tried to make more power but we're not going to push it anymore tonight.

i'll post the graph & pics later when i get home.

cheers

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

congrats man! lets see graph.

how much for a pull?

theorie

iTrader: (31)

here's the 380.3 horse chart.

ignore the torque number...it was actually like 297 lb/ft @ 6400rpm, but for some reason the dyno graph showed a spike at the very beginning of the chart.

the next highest pull was around 373 at just under 1 bar of boost.



full info on the car here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2616329

we've got a r33 skyline on the dyno right now....disconnected the front driveshaft so we could run it on this rear-wheel only dyno...haha

how much does it cost? i can't say...it's my friend's dyno, so you would have to ask him the rates.

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

Wish I would have known about this place when I was in Florida. I was around that area alot, my grandma has a place in englewood. Spent the 30th and 31st on Siesta Key at SKOB.

Anyway, good numbers. Congrats on the fresh rebuild.

theorie

iTrader: (31)

yep, sarasota's a nice place.

i used to have the shop's (Advanced Race Technology) logo in my sig but one of the admins removed it.

here are some pics from tonight

RX7 RAGE

iTrader: (22)

What afr were you running on the 380 hp pull?

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

goodness.. That is about the power I am aiming for!

theorie

iTrader: (31)

here is the chart with the AFR - BUT the numbers are off by 1 unit. when it says 12 on the chart, it's really 11. something with the connector he's using to hook the unit up to his dyno....so anyway, at 380.3 horses the afr was right at 11.



also, mod list:

Engine:
+ Mazda 13B (1.3L, 2 Rotor)
+ Large Street Porting (Intake & Exhaust)
+ 3mm Mazda Apex Seals

ECU:
+ Apexi Power FC & Commander

Intake & Turbos:
+ Stock Twin-Turbos Ported & Modified for Non-Sequential Operation (Hitachi HT12 w/51mm turbine & 57mm compressor)
+ HKS "Super Sequential" Blow-off Valve (New Version)
+ GM 3-Bar Map Sensor
+ Modded Efini "Y" Pipe
+ Custom Stock-Mount Intercooler
+ Blitz Dual SBC Spec-R Dual-Solenoid Boost Controller
+ M2 Carbon Fiber Airbox w/ Dual K&N Filters

Exhaust:
+ Jet-Hot Coated 3" Straight-Through Downpipe
+ Rx7store.net Resonated Midpipe
+ HKS Carbon Fiber / Titanium Cat-Back

Fuel:
+ Nippondenso "Supra TT" Fuel Pump
+ KG Parts Secondary Fuel Rail
+ 1600cc Secondary Injectors
+ Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator

Ignition:
+ HKS "Twin Power" Ignition Amplifier

Drivetrain:
+ ACT Xtreme Duty Street/Strip Clutch Kit
+ SR Motorsports 9.5lb Aluminum Flywheel

Cooling:
+ Fluidyne Over-Sized Competition Radiator
+ M2 AST Coolant Expansion Tank Bypass Adapter

Exterior:
+ VIS "Knight Sports Style" Carbon Fiber Hood
+ Aerocatch "Plus" Locking Flush Hood Latches
+ Dual Gas-Filled Hood Props
+ RE-Amemiya Carbon Fiber Rear Diffuser
+ Modified Tail Lights ('99 Spec)

Rims & Tires:
+ SSR Competition Forged 17" Wheels: 9" Rear, 8" Front
+ Kuhmo 712 Ecsta Supra ZR Tires: 265/40/17 Rear, 235/45/17 Front

Handling:
+ Cusco Front Strut Tower Brace

Audio & Security:
+ Alpine 9856 Head Unit (XM, CD, Mp3, Aux-In)
+ Factory Bose Speakers & Acoustic Wave System

Reliability & Misc:
+ 8 Piece Block-Off Plate Kit (Emissions Controls Removed)
+ AWS System Removed
+ Pettit Racing Steering Column Boost Gauge
+ Magnacore Spark Plug Cables
+ Mazda OEM Armrest
+ SmarTire Tire Pressure/Temp Monitor
+ Engine Torque Dampener
+ Silver GReddy-Style Alternator & Water Pump Pulley Kit
+ Aircraft-Style Hose Clamps
+ Dual 3-Point Racing Harnesses
+ PIAA Fog Lamps
+ Optima Yellow-Top Relocated to Passenger's Rear Storage Bin

TimeMachine

iTrader: (10)

Nice job, man! This is inspirational, I feel like I'm looking in a crystal ball for my car 6 mos down the road.

G's 3rd Gen

iTrader: (11)

Nice to see the car set-up right! Congrats on your progress. That set-up will be fun! G

M104-AMG

iTrader: (8)

If they are still in business, and you would use them again, I'd like his contact info PM'd to me.

Thanks,
:-) neil

Farkel Jr.

iTrader: (10)

Good stuff, 380 whp must be fun


Did your M2 intake come with any outlets? I know you removed all of your emission stuff, I'm planning on doing that too... but my M2 intake has like 5 different things coming out the back of it... did you just remove and plug the holes?

brad89au

theorie, can yo post pics on how you mounted the intercooler mate?

cheers,
Brad.

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

congrats. what did the skyline put down?

got_hp

derek over at ART is a good guy.....i was there a couple months ago and he helped me out with some squeeky belts and some voltage problems.


any of you florida or sarasota guys going to the upcoming car meets? we can get a caravan started.

ferraris & exotics on st. armands circle http://ferrarisandexotics.com/

and

themonsterisme

iTrader: (2)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgq1mkFEMwE
Final horsepower was 712hp @8000 rpm and 509tq @ 6850 rpm.
here is a time attack z32 he built also-was tuned after this vid and made 697 whp and 597 wtq with diffrent cams
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXSgf-W2QYA

oops...this vid is of a diffrent gtr than the one in the pics...the gtr in this vid was tuned that week also