Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

I just recently finished my vacuum hose job today and ran the car to make sure everything is ok and it was... until I noticed that the water temperatures would continue to rise and RISE. I had to turn the car off at about 230 degrees F when I realized it wasnt gonna get any better. It didnt really overheat, but it was STARTING to.

If this helps, I also replaced the waterpump with a new OEM unit, installed a new OEM thermostat, an FC thermoswitch, repaired wiring for the ecu (green connector) water temp sensor, and installed an aftermarket water temp sensor for my water temp gauge into the throttle body coolant hose.

I dont wanna say too much I dont want anybody getting confused, but if anybody has ANY idea where I can start to look for a solution, PLEASE HELP!!!

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

I would check the thermostat, thermostwitch, and fans.

Six Rotors

iTrader: (17)

Did you test the t-stat before installing?Did you bleed the coolant properly to remove all air from the cooling system?(could be airlocked)

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

The fans actually will stay on when the car is not running even with no key in the car. That NEVER happened before, it happened after I installed the FC thermoswitch, but idk if thats normal or not.

The thermostat and waterpump are both brand new OEM. The FC thermoswitch is also new. I installed the thermostat with the jiggle pin at the "TOP" according to the FSM. Is there a wrong way to install a thermostat, a thermoswitch or a waterpump?

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

I did bleed the coolant properly and I did not test the thermostat before reinstalling because it is brand new would I still need to test it? I read that its possible that the waterpump belt is slipping so I tried to tighten it up, but I managed to **** up the adjuster bolt and now I gotta buy a new one and I cant do **** ****!!! It seems that the alternator bolt bottoms out on the vacuum chamber and I cant get it any tighter. Dont get me wrong the belt feels tight, but it doesnt feel THAT tight, did I do something wrong? I dont think the bolt should bottom out that doesnt seem normal

This is REALLY making me insane

Turbo8

iTrader: (17)

I posted in your other thread where you asked the same question but I figured I could post here too:

Make SURE all the air bubbles are out of the system. Do you have a burping funnel? You can get one off ebay for $20 shipped. Makes burping the coolant system very easy.

Since you just changes the T-stat, I would suspect that if you have your system properly burped.

How tight is the water pump belt? How much deflection can you get when you squeeze it? Do you still have the air pump installed?

Also, calm down! Trust me, you can't do any good to your car when you operating in panic mode. Sit down, chill out, and relax. I know it's difficult but you can easily create more problems by freaking out. If this car is your DD see if you can call some friends to arrange a ride to work/whatever to avoid that stress. Just trying to help...

FDSeoul

iTrader: (8)

just make sure that the jiggle valve is installed at 12 o clock in the housing and is free and clear for movment. minor things make the fd a bitch to work on. keep us posted.

smog-guy707

iTrader: (11)

hey Ernesto My fans also stay on when the car is off but i have the petit 185F fan switch so im sure thats portion is ok, probably just a air bubble or thermostat dude chill out, if the water pump belt is tight then that narrows it down even more, take a day off man sometimes its the best thing to do

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

I am 100% sure the thermostat is installed correctly and I had the jiggle pin right at the 12oclock position just like in the FSM in fact I took a picture of when I installed the thermostat and waterpump before I put the housing back together and you can actually see the thermostat in the picture with the jiggle pin at the top in my other thread and thats exactly how I installed it.

I know its not the thermostat and I really dont think its the waterpump because its new and I put it on the same way the old waterpump went on. Maby the FC thermoswitch? but I though the FC switch suppose to make temps cooler not increase them? I doubt thats it. Ill be checking the belt for slippage

This IS my daily driver but its been down for about a month and Ive been getting rides to work and I just wanna start driving it again. frustrating part is that I still need to do the clutch and throw out bearing its overwhelming, but I def gotta take a break because me working while angry is a VERY BAD thing.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Did you check the coolant level after it cooled down? You probably have air in the system.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

The fans are are coming on after shut down because of the FC thermoswitch. With the FD thermoswitch the engine would have had to run at 108C for before shutdown to activate the aftercooling. Now with the FC thermoswitch the aftercool trigger point is 97 C. That's actually one of the benefits to the FC thermoswitch. If you cut the car off at a gas station your fans will keep running for up to 10 minutes so when you get back the engine won't be nearly as heatsoaked.

See this thread on how the fans are controlled: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/why-engine-so-damn-complicated-part-3-cooling-fan-controls-876767/

As for the overheating, you probably just have air in the system. It sounds like you need to walk away from the car for a little while to get your bearings. It happens to all of us.

Eggie

Do the radiator hoses get hot?

smog-guy707

iTrader: (11)

^and both pressurized?

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Ok apparently there was still a little air in the system because I let it sit overnight and today the coolant was slightly lower but not by much but nothing leaking on the ground. I topped it off and put the cap back on let it warm up.

I noticed a few things... First thing I noticed is that the temps only rise when im revving to about 4-5K RPM. It didnt overheat, but the temps rose to about 220-230 degrees. Is that because the car is sitting in the garage and there is no outside air coming in as in driving 40-50 mph? I DID however let the car idle for about 45 minutes with occasional light revving and the temps started to decrease and when I stopped revving altogether, they temps stayed right at 205 degrees and didnt move from there.

Another thing I noticed is that when I turned the car off at 205 degrees, the fans did not stay on, which I actually like. I was reading a thread earlier saying that the fans will only stay on for 10 minutes if you turn the car off with the temps above 205 degrees, but if you are AT 205 when you turn it off, then the fans do not stay on, because the engine is at the right temperature already and I kinda like that.

The only last problem I have is I have an ABS light on now which I didnt have before. I don't remember messing with any ABS connectors or anything, but to me it sounds like maby somethings not plugged in. I'll take a look at the wiring diagram but if anybody has any ideas of what it could be thatd really help a lot

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Doh! looks like the ABS circuit DOES run through the rear wiper fuse which is the one I use to wire up one of the gauges, go figure . Looks like ill need to wire that gauge into something, because I actually WANT my ABS working I have no idea what im boosting or how the car drives because I still need to do the clutch before I can drive anywhere. For now, at least the car starts/runs great thermoswitch works perfectly idles smooth everything seems the same way it was before I took it all apart. Thanks guys for all the help so far

FDSeoul

iTrader: (8)

dude live and learn glade that you made some progress on the fd. GL on the rest and keep us posted.