Coolant test is real important, get a funnel so the coolant can work its way up the funnel (the thermostat has to open). This is real important in finding if you need a new motor or not. Any bubbles what soever.

 

well I let it run for about 10 minutes and it didn't seem to be getting hot at all, no bubbles, and the temp guage stayed halfway, the plugs seemed to help a little but now it even cuts off again, when I am idling I revved it up some, and when it gets back to idle at 1200 RPMS it goes down and cuts off. Also the engine is lumpy running, it vibrates the hood when closed, it isn't smooth running, it shakes and then goes back right, and then shakes again. Anybody live in VA near Roanoke wanna take a look? haha. I am going to install the downpipe tom, do you think the fuel filter change could help? WHat was the stuff on the plugs, black and smelled the the exhaust, oil? Also When I changed the plugs it smoked a little bit under the hood then quit. One more thing, how long does it take for that trans fluid to burn if I turn the car on every day for a little bit?

 

Fuel filter will not harm, btw have someone but some load on the engine while your looking at the funnle. Good luck with the downpipe. Check your motor mounts to, if the engine is shaking that much.

 

AMEN brotha!! Its really funny to read in one of the first posts "you blew a coolant seal and need a new motor". People like that must use the jump to conclusions mat.

 

Depending on how long the ATF was in there, it can take a bit to burn off. You know what my friend, it almost sounds like you've got a blown motor non coolant o ring style. Has it ever idled correctly? The black smoke indicates the motor running rich or burning excess fuel in some form or another. Its possible you lost a seal and its flooding out your motor partially due to not having compression on two faces of a rotor, or all three. Even low compression due to high mileage can result in flooded motors with no damage to the seals at all. I'd possibly do a compression test, or at LEAST a poor mans compression test which goes as follows:

Take out a plug on either rotor ( one at a time) pull out the EGI fuse and see if there are three pulsations of air that come out of the spark plug hole. you will get a sound like FWAP FWAP FWAP if its ok, and FWAP psshh pshhh if its not.
It's not the best way to go about testing your compression, but it can give you an idea if you lost a seal or not. But your best bet is to get a compression tester... and this all if the car didnt run right before.... and come to think of it, have you checked to see if your map sensor vacuum line is on correctly?

The crap on your plus was basically just carbon deposits. Cant tell you what the smell is without smelling it.

Another idea is that its possible that one of your injectors is stuck open or leaking. How many miles are on this motor? is it a reman or rebuild? its possible the injectors were installed incorrectly.

Oh man... even more of a suprise... you mentioned u changed the plug wires... did you install them incorrectly? that will make your car run goofy. Double check those ASAP.

I'm sure theres other things, but Ive been typing for a bit

 

well there is no black smoke it was just like 5 seconds, now it is all white. It seems to idle when I turn it on just fine, but when I drive it for like 2 minutes park it back and revv it some, then it acts like it wants to die. The engine is shaking some, but every once it in a while it goes like it should, then back ti shaking.

 

I have no idea what the MAP sensor is or the vacuu, line to the brake booster, and yes the ECU was messed with, I had to unplu it the take out the dash.

 

the map sensor is a 2inch by 2 inch black box thats on the right of the firewall when facing the engine bay from the front of the car. It has a vacuum line coming off of it, with a little filter as well. Its just a slight right of the Intercooler elbow. Check to make sure all those lines are on correctly. You might also want to try resetting the ECU by disconnecting the negative battery terminal,.holding down the brake for a minute, then reconnecting it.

 

Oh yeah great story with downpipe! Well I looked under the hood took the air intake hoses off and walah! 02 sensor wire was broke off the sensor just dangling, there were only 2 nuts on the top of the precat 1 bare stud and one didnt have anything it. Well I went under the car and even better! The was nothing holding the bottom in except, A C-CLAMP! it was holding the pre to the main and the gasket was FRIED! No studs or nuts. Were can I get this stuff quickly! Studs, nuts and an 02 sensor.

 

You can get the studs from Malloy Mazda, do a search on the forum for a phone number, I cant remember it off hand. Ask for Ray Crowe, real great guy.

The o2 sensor you can get a universal Bosch sensor for like 80 bucks cheaper then the stock one,but you have to splice the wires yourself.

Man, it sounds like you bought up a beat to hell car man.. hope you dont discover anything else like that. A disconnected o2 sensor can definitely cause problems you described during low RPMS.

 

So malloy mazda would be my quickest way to get the studs and nuts, what about the 02, I just want the one that is supposed to go there, so stock I guess, even if it is expensive. Where can I get that quick. I need this stuff quick because I need the car runnin by this weekend!

 

Also I need the bottom gasket.

 

Will this work for the gasket?

http://www.rx7store.net/index.asp?Pa...ROD&ProdID=305

and this for the 02

http://www.rx7store.net/index.asp?Pa...ROD&ProdID=819

 

you might want to pull the idle air control valve off and clean it, it may be sticking causing your idle problems also.

 

Where and how?

 

it is on the back side (near firewall) of the uim on the tb, it is the one with the white plug. you can spray carb cleaner in it to free it up.

 

Thanks I will do that, so anymore about the 02 and gasket and studs, I need them ASAP!

 

You dont want the wideband o2 sensor. Just call up malloy mazda. They will have everything your looking for and can overnight it for you if you need it

 

I am in somewhat the same situation you are in but my o2 sensor isnt the prob but yall have helped me out alot on this fourm. im 19 and work everyday to keep this car I whish i knew more about this car before I got it but I dont like to give up and this car is my baby I plan on trying to keep for a long time. Im saveing for a rebuild but i dont see any air bubbles but now my car won't start the spark plugs arent bad and there getting power to them (it hurt my friend turned the car over when i wasent ready) i saw them arch and i cleaned them anyways im getting compression and fule it seems like its alotta oil and a little gas oh btw the car sat up for a while im pretty sure my turbos are bad but i kinda think my engine is good but anyways thanks for the info guys i just wanna let yall know yall didnt just help him out

 

Thanks everyone, I'll be posting back I'm sure when I get the stuff.

 

Well I e-mailed Ray Crowe last night, then called him today. He said he already had my ticket ready, read out everything, sounded like a great price, sounded like he knew what he was talking about, and he said he would ship the parts tomorrow and they should be there by Thursday! Holy ****, sounds like a great guy.

 

Well I e-mailed Ray Crowe last night, then called him today. He said he already had my ticket ready, read out everything, sounded like a great price, sounded like he knew what he was talking about, and he said he would ship the parts tomorrow and they should be there by Thursday! Holy ****, sounds like a great guy.

 

You probably have the engine fixed by now.
I wish I could've caught this thread earlier.

Here's one way to find out if your coolant seal (water jacket o-rings):
-Check your reservoir (easier on FC)
-As it idles, check for bubbles.
*On an FD, take the hose from the water filler neck (usually goes to AST) and put it in a bottle (something wide like Gatorade bottle) and check to see if coolant starts to fill the bottle at idle (cold start).

If there is a coolant seal that is bad in the engine, the combustion chamber will push out air as it's compressed. Typically, water seals will go bad near the ignition side of the housing.

I've had engines that start up lumpy and higher idle. After it warms up (clear out coolant from the combustion chamber), it'll sound more normal, but you'll quickly see a low coolant warning light (actually depends on how big the leak may be).

J

 

muHahHAhhahAhA bee you are fooking funny man! lOlLolOLOlOl!!!1

 

you seriously bought a fd without reading a single thing about it? geez man