Just had a few quick questions and i've already done alot of research. But I just need to know:

1: If I have it well tuned (I live 20 mins. from Gotham Racing) can that avoid most mechanical issues?

2: Does anyone know how I can get an extended warranty? If so, then please tell me the name of the company and some way of contacting them.

Anything else I need to know?

(And the car will be an everyday driver and weekend track car, so i'm thinking of running 10lbs. of boost on and off the track.)

Your input will be greatly appreciated.

 

If its coservatively tuned I dont why it shouldnt last but when you start modifying stuff and beating the crap out of it, it tends to break. Its not just these cars either. But running stock boost on a stock engine should last a while.

 

well mazda luaghed at me when a called and asked how much a reman was for a 94 then i told him he was lucky i wasnt asking about my 88 he then laughed harder also SEARCH preventative maintenace a tune isnt gonna solve every thing oh yeah if you do already know you better have alot of money

 

Well I am on a slighty limited budget so I was hopeing that getting the extended warranty could cover the bigger issues like blowing an engine. And for mods I was planning on keeping the stock twins at 10lbs. boost and doing mostly reliability mods like intercooler, BOV, radiator, intake, downpipe, exhaust, tuner, and turbo timer. But I don't want to be afraid of opening up the engine on the track or street. (Would 400rwhp be too much to ask?) I have more details available about the car and the planned mods if that would help?

 

dude where are you buying this car from i thought you were talking about a new engine warenty nobody will extend the warenty on that thing they break all the time thats why i said you better have deep pockets

 

Well If you want 400whp than you can pretty much throw out the conservative tune and forget about 10psi of boost and even if someone was crazy enough to extend the warranty You shurlly will void it by modifying the car and putting it on the track. and if you are attempting to hit those numbers you might aswell plan on a buying a new engine now just in case...good luck

 

stock twins isn't going to help your cause...
If you buy the car from some used dealers, they have warranty. I seem to recall you can get warrenty if you buy the car from the dealership. Adding mod's will probably void that though.

 

A proper tune will help alot with preventing internal engine problems. That is assuming you have a solid engine/compression to begin with. There are lots of things that may need fixing apart from a tune. I would put away 1-2k above purchase price for reliability mod upgrades and standard matinence just to get the car on a good foundation.

Extended warranty? Some builders offer a limited warranty on an engine that they build, but those are normally limited to damage that likely occured from something getting in the engine during the build etc. They likely won't cover oil starve, fuel starve, overboost, bad tuning, overheating. If you are interested in a warranty, I would contact Kevin Landers at R.R.

This probably isn't the right car for you if you are on a limited budget, or if you want to track a financed car. I know that sounds like something you may not want to hear, but if you rush out there with a new car and start tracking it, before really learning the in's and out's of the specific car, you might be asking for an expensive problem. (Ask me how I know, lol)

On a positive note, the most important thing you can do is get a good tune, (Steve) and start hanging out with the Rx-7 crowd in your area, and soaking up information.

Good luck, and visit the forums often!

(FYI, my path to a reliable 400rwhp has been about 12k over and above the cost of the car in the last 16 months.)

-R4tw

 

Bottom Line, you're starting on the wrong foot, having little $$, wanting 400RWHP, and warrenties aren't cheap, they know that **** will break this isn't a fridge @ best buy, you know...

These cars usually are high maintenance, high $ cars... and Gotham is great but, they don't work on FD's out of the goodness of their hearts...

 

dude hes already seen what was coming and probly doesnt even want one any more

 

You want "mod" a 14 year old car to 400 hp while you keep it as a DD AND track car...on a limited budget? And your research indicated that a BOV, intake, exhaust and turbo timer were reliability mods?

 

Let me give more details so you know the full story. The one i'm looking at is a 93' black on black R1 and has 86,600 miles on it total and a rebuilt engine with 3,000 miles on the new engine, the car is mechanically sound and all checks were done at gotham racing. He's asking $16,900 and I have about 4k left over to mod with so I was thinking of useing 2 or 3k for mods and use whats left over to put into a bank account and slowly save for expensive problems. And yes a turbo timer, intake, and exhaust can be reliability mods but there will be more than that done to keep it cool and conservitivly tuned. And in a few years this will be a track only car.

 

hows an intake and exhaust reliablity mods they lean out the engine

 

they allow the engine to breath and cool better but yes the fuel will have to be enriched, that's what tuning is for, and the turbo timer will let the turbos cool properly which will prevent damage to them

 

but ems will you be tunning with they cost a pretty penny?

 

The stock turbos are water cooled. Oil coking (which is what turbo timers help prevent) is solved by the water cooling. If you are using an aftermarket single turbo that isn't water cooled, then a turbo timer would be a good idea.

 

I don't mind spending the money for a good tune, so I was planning on haveing a bunch of mods done at once and then have it all tuned together without the car ever leaveing the shop. Remember all this will be be done at gotham racing. So Steve will be tuning my car.

 

I was hopeing with all the upgraded electronics, (turbo timer, fuel management, PowerFC) that they will have the most options to give me the best tune and keep it conservative. The goal is to keep it reliable but still have a decent amount of power. But once it becomes a track only car a single turbo will go in, and thats when i'll get my 400rwhp.

 

When you are saying "track", are you meaning "road course" or "drag strip"?

 

nevermind. good luck.

 

when I say "track" I mean road course, and the mods are mostly all bolt-ons

 

I would suggest reading this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/fd-road-racers-only-your-upgrades-your-rationale-136678/

 

These arent' reliability mods, except for the fact that the stock precat is a failure point. Intake and cat-back are really flow mods which are done for power.

Turbo timer is a very ineffective way to improve reliability. It can be argued that it does more damage than good since FDs don't cool well (if at all) by idling. Just drive the car easy until it's warmed up, and don't shut it down after doing massive boosting and you'll do the car better than a turbo timer can.

I suggest you look into true reliability mods like upgraded radiator, AST, intercooler and ducting), water temp, oil temp, boost gauges, etc. Also worth looking into brake upgrades and water pump reducer pulley for track use. Plus maintenance and even more maintenance. Never let the boost go above 10psi; in fact for track work it would make sense to start running at 8psi until you get to know the car and it's thermal characteristics.


I think your idea will hold up as long as you don't go for the 400hp while you're trying to keep costs under control. You will have a hell of a track car if you focus on suspension and tires instead of power. Trying to think about power before the other things is putting the cart ahead of the horse.

Dave

 

So if I do the reliability mods (silicon vacuum lines, AST tank, radiator, midpipe, downpipe, intercooler) and a few flow mods (intake, exhaust) then a tuner and a fuel managment system then should I be alright?

 

Need a few more opinions:

1: should I get better spark plugs and wires?
2: what intakes will fit with the Greddy 24V FMIC installed?
3: will the stock ignition be ok or should I get a pair of MSD 6As?
4: worst case senerio how much will a whole new engine cost w/ street porting and installation? (Ive heard everywhere from 5k to 10k)
5: if the rebuilt engine only has about 3k miles on it should I be too worried?