MusmoSpeed

I just got an FD a few weeks ago and I have a few questions that I need answered, I read the faqs and I couldn't find the answer to these. So you guys can help.

1) When I start the car, I often hear something like running water dripping somewhere around the engine or passenger seat area. Sounds like water is pouring out somewhere. I first thought that it was rain water in the door jams, or the coolant over flow tank. I know it's not rain water since it hasn't been raining recently, and I know it's not the overflow tank since there is nothing dripping from the bottom of the car. Any idea what it is? Something with A/C? Fuel? or are all FD's like that?


2) I currently have 84K miles on the car's original engine, so I'd like to rebuild it as soon as I can. My question is, I'm trying to hit a target of around 350-400 horsepower, so should I replace EVERYTHING (Housing, rotors, Etc) Or Should I just replace all the seals and clean the carbon off? Since the engine hasn't been blown before, I'm sure that the rotors and everything are in perfect condition.


3) Final question. I'll definently start with the good ol reliability things like downpipe, radiator and all that. but I also remember reading that the rotary engine needs to be tuned right after putting on an aftermarket part since the engine is tuned for just the stock settings, and messing that up can cause your engine to run lean which can blow seals.
Now if that's true does it mean I have to tune for all aftermarket parts? or just any part that has to do with the air intake + fuel injection system Like intercooler, turbo, intake and that stuff . So does that means I won't need to tune if I get an exhaust system,oil coolers, or radiator?


Thanks for answering

rynberg

1) Not sure on that one. It's not normal though. Might be a problem with the heater core.

2) You will want to use new rotor housings. Everything else may be reusable. Side housings should be lapped. If you are serious, you should talk to Rick at Rick's Rotary (925-484-1234), tell him Tyler referred you. I also suggest you read my engine rebuild thread for an idea of how to build a smoggable reliable engine -- https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=rebuild

3) I suggest you read this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/stock-ecu-10-psi-myth-308996/.

Check your PMs.

MusmoSpeed

Thanks for the help

Yea I'll probobly talk to Rick when I have some time, his shop is like 5 minutes away. Only problem with Rick is that he costs a lot, I've heard anywhere from 2500-3000.

I would like to do it myself, but this car is going to be my DD for probobly till the end of the year, so I don't want to blow the engine, and I would like something with a warranty. Not to mention I have very little time to do it. So I tried talking to Karrack but he hasn't answered my recent PM's. I'll talk to Rick sometime soon too.

Anyone know someone that does a good streetport + rebuild in the bay area?

rynberg

Um...no, Rick charges 6k+ for an R+R+ rebuild, depending on other incidentals.

If you think 2.5-3k is expensive for a rebuild, you are not going to get new rotor housings, which I strongly recommend on a motor that old.

Is there something actually wrong with the motor now? Just because it has 84k on it doesn't mean it's a ticking time bomb.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Also, if you think 2.5-3k is expensive period, you're in for one heck of a rude awakening w/ this car...

Well...

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Could the dripping sound be from the A/C system? On many cars, there is a drip pan that drains condensation and it's tucked behind the glove box.

Dave

MusmoSpeed

Oh, someone just told me that most rebuilds are around 3K, I'm ok with 6K, I just thought that was on the high side.

Yea there is nothing wrong with the engine right now, I just want to make sure it's running for a while, I don't want it to be be out of commisson for a few months.

rx7what

iTrader: (6)

Most rebuilds are drasticly over priced. If you do things like take the motor out and put it back in you can save a lot of money. Also a lot of the larger rotory shops seem to think there work is better than evey on else's so they price accordingly.

New rotor housings is always a good idea(I would do it), but probobly not needed(the person who takes it apart will tell you if you need new ones). If your engine runs fine why rebuild it now? My original motor held strong till 135k. And then only a coolant seal went. I would wait till I had a daily driver to tear your car apart.

Buy the way karack's rebuilds run 2 to 3k depending on what you want done to the motor(ie: street port). And that is about the going price for a full rebuild. I highly recomend him. But he is very busy. He will get back to you. Or pm boostedrex he will give you his phone number.

And you only need to tune when you change something that effects your air/fuel such as exhaust or intake. Not things like radiator and ast.

jic

iTrader: (1)

why dont u take 1-2 out of the 3-6k rebuild fund and get urself cheap DD car.
then u have all the time in the world to do your rebuild

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

And the average cost of a rebuild (from a professional shop), including pull and reinstall is about $5K - $6K.

And unfortunately, other than taking proper care of the car, there's nothing you can do to guarantee it won't go on you at any minute. I'd definitely get a daily driver, and that way if/when the time comes, you can let the FD sit until she's fixed...that way you don't even worry about when it's gonna go.

~Ramy

MusmoSpeed

Yea I guess I could get the DD instead and wait for a rebuild later. I just thought it would be better to buy a rebuild before the engine blows than after if blows, because I heard of times when the apex seal can blow, and then scratch up rotors and housings.

I'm not in too big of a hurry to rebuild, I plan on maybe sometime in July or August we'll see.

Only problem with the DD is that I'll have 2 insurances, I guess I can save some cash if I change myself as a primary driver of a Civic than a FD.


and of course I'm gonna take great care of it, I plan on placing some good reliablity mods. Not to mention I change the oil once a month. Already gonna send the car for a full tune up

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

No sense in undertaking costs before they're necessary. If it's not blown, don't do it. For all you know, you could have another 40K miles in her. If you wanna start an RX-7 rebuild fund in the meantime, that would be a smart idea

Again, don't tear down a running motor. It makes no sense.

I actually saved a LOT of money when I added a daily driver, and declared my FD as a leisure car. I went from paying about $1800 for the FD alone every 6 months to about a grand for BOTH cars every 6 months. Multicar discount

Be smart about your maintenance. Don't waste perfectly good oil. Unless you're putting 2500 miles on her per month, there's NO sense in replacing the oil ever month. My FD sees prob 3000 miles a YEAR, and I change the oil on her probably once every 6 months (which is pretty much the limit...2500 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first). And I've pulled 91K miles out of her

~Ramy

bajaman

I think he is wanting to 'rebuild AND upgrade hp' on his engine and (correctly) assumes that if he takes a good working engine with no torn up housings or rotors his cost will be much less than if he happens to wait until some catastrophic failure trashes his engine. So I can understand that part. And one would assume that he could get a 350 hp engine built up using his current engine for around $5K - I mean why not? We're talking only having to put new seals and bearings and a port job along with a PowerFC and aftermarket I/C for the most part, correct? This guy is already a good $1500 ahead of the game by NOT having trashed components.

As for the 'water dripping noise', I wonder if it is the tell-tale "rushing water thru the heater core" noise that usually indicates a blown/leaky coolant seal?

MusmoSpeed

I drive about 700-1500 a month depending on the weather. But how about the oil coolers? When you change the oil doesn't about half a quart of old oil stay stuck in the oil cooler? That's why I just change the oil at about every 2000-2500


I don't think so. I see no smoke from burning coolant, no signs of over heating, no signs of loosing coolant, anything else I should look for?

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

I disagree. I think you'll find quite a few ppl on the forum who tore down their blocks prematurely that while their housings weren't trashed, there was *considerable* wear on them, esp. when you're talking about original housings on an 80K mile motor. Either way, it will be better for him to replace the housings at minimum. It's cutting corners like this that result in ppl complaining and crying about how the FD is so unreliable later on. Do it once, do it right.

Yes a good bit remains in the oil cooler(s) (depending on if you have one or two). But regardless, 2000 - 2500 would still be every two months, would it not? Wait it out until it's necessary. No need to do it every month if you're not racking up the mileage.

~Ramy